mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

OK !!!! i figured it out here is one with some music!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2IKiP5Xzp4

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

moto do you recall if you put any right thrust in you engine, i was talking to eddie @ laserworks the other day and he said to check out the rudder,vertical fin alignment!! i checked it from several measurments and it's centered dead on center???? i have about 1/8" right thrust in the engine!!!! just trying to figure out why it wants to fly yawing to the left!!!!! in a strait level flight!!!!! any suggestions from anyone would be appreciated!!!! the firewall is 0*

Carlos G

Hi Mwhar,

In my work with the Howard DGA-15, the Vertical Stabilizer has adjustment for trimming. Accord to the Howard Manual, you had to have a slight amount of right trim in the vertical stabilizer. Then you went out and flew the plane and adjusted the vertical stabilizer for trim at cruise so you could basically fly the plane hands-off in cruise. So dead on straight ahead may not be what you want in your vertical. How to adjust the vertical after its glued in on a model might be a problem...

Might be something to think about when you build your next Mulligan

Carlos G.

tsmeiman

Hi Every one

I enjoyed this thread immensely and gained a lot of knowledge about this bird. Recently bought an original Bud Nosen Mr Mulligan, partially build kit for ZAR1800 which equates to USD232. The tips and experiences here, will go a long way towards assisting me to get this bird to where it belongs.
I have attached some pictures of the partially build kit.
Thanks to everyone who have contributed!!
Regards
Toby Smeiman

dirtydingus

Hey Guys,

I just started a Bud Nosen, "Mister" Mulligan and had a question about weight and balance. I would like to put the servos in the tail but sure don't want to have to add nose weight to compensate.

I am using a DLE 55 for power and will be making the DGA 15 version.

Thanks, Jim

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

My guess is you will need the nose weight.

moto-x

mwhar760 , NO right thrust and as I said, A bit of yaw left on take off but then straightens out.
Dirtydingus, I think you will be able to build around nose weight with rear mounted servos. I did. No weight added anywhere. Just placement of fuel tank and batteries should bring you in close.

dirtydingus

Thanks Moto-x

That sure makes life easier. Now I just need to decide on flaps or no flaps.
Wings are done so it will be a bit more work but very do-able. Do any of you out there use flaps and was it worth it?

Jim

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

well i can attest you don't need flaps mine at 31# will float at almost no wind !!!!! if it's built as the plans you will want all the throw on the controls in the wing and rudder you can get set the elevator as the instructions call for!!!!and you will want the struts!!!! so unless the are already done get the whittling knife out grab a couple of pints and enjoy !!! curiosity has me stummped though my 30% yak has around 3/8 to 1/2 right built into the firewall, the nosen mulligans were designed to fly on a geared .60 glo in the late 70"s early 80"s and not the gassers we use today!!! i'm not sure if the original kit had right thrust built in the engine box or not!!!! I am going to put more right thrust in the engine and fly it!!! if that don't work i'll do some throttle rudder mix !!! if that don't fix it i'll wait till my son graduates?????? aeronautical engineer????? try it one more time then if that don't fix it !!!!!!! i will sell it or hang it in the living room!!!!! this is a design of a plane not everyone appreciates!!!!!

dirtydingus

I have the very old original kit and there id no right thrust built in. The small glow engines they used turned very small props that created only a small amount of torque. The big gassers we use are a different story. I plan on adding 1.5 degrees of right thrust, that seems to be the magic number. I have a 40 year old Monocoupe, that I converted to gas. (g-26) I put the 1.5 degrees in that one and it was spot on.

Jim

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

i'm not sure what i have????? i'll have to recheck it i think i have the double washer degrees on the left side of the mount if i remember right !!!! i'm gonna reset the thrust when i get some free time!!! will post the results and try and locate camera in the process!!!!

tsmeiman

I have red several posts about this issue, offsetting the engine with up to 2 degrees and adding some tow in on the main wheels will give you a straight tracking plane on the ground and in the air. On Youtube is a third scale Mr Mulligan with a Moki radial. That plane flies like a dream and the sound of that radial, enough to make me cry!

MWHAR760, I like your wing struts, pity we don't have the material over here.

I also will be going with a DLE55 and 23x8 prop (JXF). Have one now running on a Python 27%, great reliable motor with lots of power.

Motox, do you have pics of your rudder and elevator servo installation? I will appreciate it.

Thanks and Regards
Toby

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

if you can't get the airfoil shaped hardwood strutts maybe i can get them for you and send them to you???? if i remember right they are $8.00 us. each and the shipping?????? balsa usa here in the states might send the m overseas to you????? i used 1/8 ply where the servos are mounted and used 1/8 x 3/8 doublers where the servo screws were to attach!!!

moto-x

Sorry I don"t have pics of my rudder elevator set-up but it is pretty much like mwar760.

ovationdave

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for the photos, that is exactly what I pictured doing as well. I don't think that it would be a big enough weight difference, plus there is no long pushrod to deal with. Nice job......

Dave

tsmeiman

Thanks for photos and the generous offer MWHAR760. By the look of things, i'll be ordering quite a lot of stuff from the US: fiberglass parts, dummy WASP, scale decals etc.
Not having the kit yet and looking at your photos, I determined that it would be possible the install the rudder/elevator at the back of the cockpit as per photo. The big question is, however, that if I make an access hatch at the bottom of the fuzz directly underneath this area, will it compromise structural integrity? Any advise will be appreciated. I have used pull-pull and push rod systems before inside a fuzz of a 27% Edge with any difficulty.

Regards

Toby

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

if your plane is a nosen kit or even a&a kit if it is all balsa behind the rear cabin former i would'nt put them there!!!!! the difference between mine and yours is mine has 1/4 ply fuse sides laminated with 1/4 balsa, all stringers are bass wood!!! and weighs 31pounds!!!! i really don't think you will have a problem putting them in the rear!!!! running a paper tube down the fuse and run extentions to the tail even if you use a 50cc. the most you should have to do put the batteries up front!!!! but it's your plane and your decision if you think it'll work then do it!!! but me personally no i like the shortest link between the servos and controls!!!!!! another thing to is that you make an access hatch in the rear cabin former for access that way you can leave the stringers in place????? food for thought!!!!!

tsmeiman

Indeed, food for thought - i like that suggestion, but as I have said, final decisions will only be made when I have felt and touch this baby. In the mean time it is still planning etc, those things we want to do, but never get around to do. If I go for servos in the back, then I would like to hide them, which will be first price for, me. Then again this kit lends itself towards some bashing. Some guys do really take this babe serious when building it. For now I first need to repair my Katana after a bad landing in the rough and also getting the Albatros C1 of the building (Assembly) board.

cheers
Toby

moto-x

Flew the Mulligan today twice. Both flights were nice with the new 22/6/10 prop. Seems to have broken a motor mount bolt though.need to look in to this.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Take some pics please, I want to see this bolt.

Mitch

blhollo2

My Feedback: (278)

i have a bud nolsen mulligan with a zenoah G62 and it flys beautifully!

blhollo2

My Feedback: (278)

and it does yaw to the left i has to add ALOT of right alerion

jerrya

My Feedback: (4)

In the early 80's I bought a framed up Nosen Mulligan and finished it. Ist flights were with a Quadra 35. It was slightly tail heavy on the 1st flight. Fortunately Mac Hodges, (of B-29 fame) was standing by and saved it for me. I later put a Quadra 50 on it and it flew well. The Q-50 w/mount weighed 5lb 14ozs. I sold the engine a few years ago and the Mulligan is still hanging in my basement. According to the CG mark I put on it, it flies well with the CG 2 and 5/8" from the inside of the cabin top behind the windshield. I think it weighed ~ 25 lbs with the Q-50. Mine needed coupled aileron and rudder to fly well. It did not turn well on ailerons alone. Prehaps differential ailerons would work on it also. A G62 would probably work well, although it doesn't need that much power, it may need the weight.

mwhar760

My Feedback: (18)

mine fly's the same way!!! gotta use the rudder to turn !! mine weighs 31# with a a&m 4.2 sachs and a 24x10 pro zinger will pull it strait up!!! if i ever build another i will make the ailerons bigger !!!!!

moto-x

Did you sell the Mulligan? Flew mine 6 flights last weekend. very nice and smooth.