Cutting ribs
#26

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From: Shenfield, UNITED KINGDOM
I sand all the ribs together in 1 pack at same time to ensure they are all identical. By using a shaped template the blanks can be arranged with minimum wastage compared to rectangular blanks.
My hole punch has 2 different features to normal.
1 is a slot cut across the tube in addition to the normal sharpening of the inside ( this seems to help cut rather than crush the balsa. ) The punch is rotated about half a turn whilst pushing down on the balsa.
2 There is a smaller hole right thro the handle to allow the waste to be pushed out with a thin piece of stiff wire. ( obviously this hole is smaller than the tube so the tube is not pushed right thro the handle)
Yes, the Permagrit tool is similar to that shown in the photo.
My hole punch has 2 different features to normal.
1 is a slot cut across the tube in addition to the normal sharpening of the inside ( this seems to help cut rather than crush the balsa. ) The punch is rotated about half a turn whilst pushing down on the balsa.
2 There is a smaller hole right thro the handle to allow the waste to be pushed out with a thin piece of stiff wire. ( obviously this hole is smaller than the tube so the tube is not pushed right thro the handle)
Yes, the Permagrit tool is similar to that shown in the photo.
#27
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From: Mission,
BC, CANADA
Well I just finished my second batch of ribs. I did 8 so I have couple of spares. Start to finish was only 15 minutes. Took longer to dig through my scraps to find stock to stack then cutting the ribs. I am happy with the notches except for the le notch. I am going to cut the remaining 4 R1 & R2 ribs. Then I'll see how I feel about recutting the R3 set over through I am out of scraps to use.
#29
ORIGINAL: bobferguson
What kind of glue are you using to attach patterns to the rib. Is it easy to remove the pattern when finished?
What kind of glue are you using to attach patterns to the rib. Is it easy to remove the pattern when finished?
#30
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From: Mission,
BC, CANADA
I notice in the picture you have left some edge around the rib on the pattern. How are you cutting the ribs out. Are you using a pattern for each rib?
ORIGINAL: EF
Poster adhesive, in a spray can. You easily remove the pattern without any trace on the wood.
ORIGINAL: bobferguson
What kind of glue are you using to attach patterns to the rib. Is it easy to remove the pattern when finished?
What kind of glue are you using to attach patterns to the rib. Is it easy to remove the pattern when finished?
#32

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From: Shenfield, UNITED KINGDOM
You can stick paper patterns to any kind of wood with double sided sticky tape such as Scotch, Selotape etc. Only short pieces are needed, say 1 inch long along each edge and 1 or 2 in the middle. Easily peels off with no trace and of course no smell or health hazard as with sprays.
Also 2 identical pieces can be stuck together whilst cutting or sanding and peeled apart if you do not use too much tape.
Also 2 identical pieces can be stuck together whilst cutting or sanding and peeled apart if you do not use too much tape.
#33
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From: Mission,
BC, CANADA
Here is my finished wing jig. It is a copy of one of my club friend made. It be interesting to see if it makes assembling the wing easier.
#34

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From: Shenfield, UNITED KINGDOM
I made a similar jig but I also made intermediate supports to ensure the rods did not sag. There are photos on another RCU thread www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8660432/tm.htm
#35
ORIGINAL: foodstick
if you are cutting a constant chord wing stack up your wood as thick as you can for your saw. A bandsaw works best. Lay your pattern on top. Run some long pins down thru the top, and also up from the bottom so the wood stays stacked precisely. Cut it outside the line on the saw leaving the line on the top part. now set them on your belt/wheel sander and gently take them down to the line, ..Unpin and you are set.
if you are cutting a constant chord wing stack up your wood as thick as you can for your saw. A bandsaw works best. Lay your pattern on top. Run some long pins down thru the top, and also up from the bottom so the wood stays stacked precisely. Cut it outside the line on the saw leaving the line on the top part. now set them on your belt/wheel sander and gently take them down to the line, ..Unpin and you are set.
#36
Senior Member
Get Harry Higley's book. I cut ribs by stack and sand method. The ribs have two holes strategically drilled to fit threaded rods, washers and wingnuts to compress stack of ribs. The end ribs are marine grade or aircraft ply. I have finished with a set of rib 'masters' for Gordon Israel's 'Redhead' in 1/4 scale. This airplane construction slated for the end of this summer. I roughly cut out the ribs and spaced them apart with 1" thick blue foam. Then sanded and sanded!!!! The master ribs are absolutely beautiful, perfect and incorporate washout. CAD drawn ones would be nice but I don't have 'Solid work' software so I devised this 'variation upon a theme' to arrive at the ribs I need for this unusual subject. The Bob Hall 'Bulldog' wings could use the same technique since they have a similar planform. I have pics if interested in the technique.



