polyurathane & polycrilic
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brandon,
MB, CANADA
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RE: polyurathane & polycrilic
They should work the same. Only thing is, the polycrylic wont have any toxic fumes, and can be cleaned up with hot, soapy water. If you have some polyurethane kicking around, you could test it out on some scrap. But if it were me, I would stick to the polycrylic. It worked great for me, as with many others on this site.
PS
the polycrylic wont take as long to dry.
PS
the polycrylic wont take as long to dry.
#8
My Feedback: (13)
RE: polyurathane & polycrilic
typical polyurathane is oil based, clean up with paint thinner, or mineral spirits,same stuff different name, it tends to build up faster, the coats are thicker and can add weight fast, the oil based material is fuel proof, when allowed to fully cure.
polycrylic, probably the most over used and inaccurate name for water based acrylic clear coat, I use Varathane Diamond finish for glassing, but any WB poly works well enough for the job.
of the water based material the Varathane is the most fuel resistant of the ones I have tried, its good for a couple of hours before it begins to soften up when fuel is on it after it has cued for a couple of weeks.
for painting over WB poly glass jobs I like using the www.warbirdcolors.com paints since there a simmilar product, there water based catalized urathanes, they use a cross linker to make the finish fuel proof to 15% nitro.
I have also considered using the clear for glassing, since it would make my finish coats entirely fuel proof, but the Varathane is cheaper and is easy to use so I have kept going with it, the material also can be recoated in a hour so the glassing goes rather quickly
polycrylic, probably the most over used and inaccurate name for water based acrylic clear coat, I use Varathane Diamond finish for glassing, but any WB poly works well enough for the job.
of the water based material the Varathane is the most fuel resistant of the ones I have tried, its good for a couple of hours before it begins to soften up when fuel is on it after it has cued for a couple of weeks.
for painting over WB poly glass jobs I like using the www.warbirdcolors.com paints since there a simmilar product, there water based catalized urathanes, they use a cross linker to make the finish fuel proof to 15% nitro.
I have also considered using the clear for glassing, since it would make my finish coats entirely fuel proof, but the Varathane is cheaper and is easy to use so I have kept going with it, the material also can be recoated in a hour so the glassing goes rather quickly
#9
My Feedback: (-1)
RE: polyurathane & polycrilic
I have used them both and decided I liked the finish I got with the Deft sanding Laquer better, just stinks so bad you need a big open area to use it.
For paint I like the Klass Kote two part epoxy, the stuff is bullet proof and easy to use. It thins down about 50/50 so the weight is kept down. Goes on easy with any cheap HVLP spray gun or air brush.
For paint I like the Klass Kote two part epoxy, the stuff is bullet proof and easy to use. It thins down about 50/50 so the weight is kept down. Goes on easy with any cheap HVLP spray gun or air brush.