Winter Project .60 Plane?
#51
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ORIGINAL: Ilikebipes
Unless the gear is taller than the trike gear, there will not be any diferrence between the two. As the airplane rotates, the tail lifts to nuetral and you are at the same stance as the trike. The prop clearance issues stay the same.
Brian
FallDownGoBoom-
Part of the landing gear decision may be dictated by your engine choice. If you're going with a 60 sized engine/prop, you could build it with a trike set up. But if you're going to put in a 75 2S or 90 4S, you're almost forced to go with the tail dragger to get adequate prop clearance with a 13'' prop, especially on a rougher field.
Like the other folks, I'd probably go with a tail dragger.
Part of the landing gear decision may be dictated by your engine choice. If you're going with a 60 sized engine/prop, you could build it with a trike set up. But if you're going to put in a 75 2S or 90 4S, you're almost forced to go with the tail dragger to get adequate prop clearance with a 13'' prop, especially on a rougher field.
Like the other folks, I'd probably go with a tail dragger.
Brian
haha My SS 40 with the OS 55ax does this easily, though not common place.Ya thinking about it, I have very little issues with any of my tail draggers. As soon as you start adding in a steerable nose gear I can forsee issues. I think I'll build it a tail dragger as well, and most likely save the retract option for the next build since I'll have the plans.
I'll let you know when I get started. Today my nose is running like crazy from all the CA fumes last night, lol. (reinforced all the glue joints on my 30% Edge).
#52
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From: Colbert,
WA
Brian:
Agreed. But the longer gear legs required on a trike set up make the plane look like it's sitting waaaay off the ground all the time. On a tail dragger, I don't think you notice the added height as much. To me, its more a matter of appearance than anything else.
Fred
Agreed. But the longer gear legs required on a trike set up make the plane look like it's sitting waaaay off the ground all the time. On a tail dragger, I don't think you notice the added height as much. To me, its more a matter of appearance than anything else.
Fred
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From: Shenfield, UNITED KINGDOM
Lots of people complained here about sanding, but to me shaping a plane from a rectangular box to a shapely plane is one of the magic parts of aeromodelling! It can be done in half an hour if you use a razor plane first. ( I havent yet built a US60, the plan is still in the post! I am talking about other similar models where the nose/ cowl needs shaping )
There are several tricks
1 Use a razor plane to start, with equal strokes on each side to get a symmetrical shape.
2 glasspaper should be fixed to a large block. The block is used in an arc which follows the intended shape of the curve. Again a few strokes 1 side then the other to keep symmetrical.
3 A Permagrit block is far better than glasspaper and quicker. It also seem to produce less dust, perhaps the ' granules' are larger, and no dust from the glasspaper itself. Expensive but you only really need 1 large block, double sided coarse and fine. ( I like the angle ended block )
4 Work outdoors to save clearing up!
There are several tricks
1 Use a razor plane to start, with equal strokes on each side to get a symmetrical shape.
2 glasspaper should be fixed to a large block. The block is used in an arc which follows the intended shape of the curve. Again a few strokes 1 side then the other to keep symmetrical.
3 A Permagrit block is far better than glasspaper and quicker. It also seem to produce less dust, perhaps the ' granules' are larger, and no dust from the glasspaper itself. Expensive but you only really need 1 large block, double sided coarse and fine. ( I like the angle ended block )
4 Work outdoors to save clearing up!



