Any one out there good with Paint.

I am at the point of primer on my Duellist (pica) Do to recent regulations in CA, it is very difficult to purchase hobby paint.

I am hoping some one out there can give me advise regarding automotive paints and what info I need when I go to the store to purchase such paint.

The plane is fiberglassed using west systems epoxy resin, I also had to use light bondo on the wing.

I have not decided on colors yet but need a suggestion regarding the primer for the weekend.

Please help,

ps. if this is the wrong forum let me know.

Happy 4th!

Mike,

been invovled in auto painting since about 1978 been thru the ringer with all of the dupoint and PPG and sherwin williams auto colors
i prefer the ppg and teh sherwin in the polyurethanes base coat clear coat systems
also u can base coat it then apply ur decals before clearing and the decals stay better go to the local paint supply for auto and tell them what u want and what there prefered primer would be as there are sevreal to choose from depending on application
hopes this helps
glenn

Mike:

I was going to say generic polyurethane, but Glenn beat me to it.

And if you use a polyurethane clear as a final coat almost any paint can be used underneath.

The auto parts store has Duplicolor, the Rustoleum and Krylon brands can be found almost anywhere. If you're lucky you can even find the polyurethane top coat in spray cans.

Further, if you can hold the nitro content down in your fuel, both Rustoleum and Krylon (in most colors- test first) are fuel resistant after a week's cure.

HTH

Bill.

This is what I use.
For primer, choose the light gray color, lacquer based primer, there are so many brands that I couldn't recommend you one over the other, just go with the one your local automotive supply store uses most, these primers use lacquer thinner for dilution, you can buy it right at the store or the cheap Home Depot brand can still be used. (This lacquer thinner will also be used to clean the spray equipment after use, and also to clean your fingers, do not! use it to clean over spray on the model after it has been painted, it is very powerful stuff, will soften just about everything).

On the paint subject now, you can spend a bunch of money on paint, there is always something better to use, but it will always be more expensive, if you're rich, buy the best, what the hell!

If you're not, buy the brand that is used the most (it will not be the best!), but you want it to be acrylic enamel that uses a catalyst (hardener), you say you live in California, I have used a paint by the brand name of ACME, this paint was the best I have used in all my years in modeling (30 almost), their urethane clear was the best by far over Dupont and PPG and it used the same catalyst as the paint, making it very economical, if you find this brand name, use it.
Make sure you buy the correct paint thinner for the paint you will be using, it should be one that works best at the temperature and humidity you will be using it under. (This is the thinner to be used to clean over spray or slight runs, when shooting trim colors).

Your second choice for enamels is the one called synthetic enamel, your supplier will also have this one, it will also have its own catalyst, this paint is not as good as enamels, but still plenty good for our use, I use this catalyst with Rustoleum to make it more durable and dry faster without runs, along with acrylic enamel thinner. (One of the things about this paint is that it should not be clear coated after it has cured, but I have done it, sparingly at first, without any problems.

And finally for clears, urethanes is the way to go, they are expensive but you will not always use it all and they will last for a very long time, some paint schemes require that the entire model be clear coated, like my Chipmunk and my Decathlon (check my Gallery), but most others, I only clear coat N numbers and things that may become damaged by fuel residue and cleaning, clear coating seals everything together. (Ask the "bartender" if they have an urethane clear that can use the same catalyst as the paint and/or thinner, it will save you a bunch if they do).

The new wave now uses (after priming) paints like house paint and other water based paints, which may be good, but I personally haven't used them extensively to tell you that they are better than the automotive kind, but one thing is true, our models usually do not last that long that paint can become a cause for concern (if you stay within the norm).

The Kadet's that you see in my Gallery were all painted with Rustoleum using acrylic enamel thinner and synthetic enamel catalyst. This combination makes this paint much better suited for our use, why? you ask, well, using the right thinner makes the paint spray more evenly and without runs, the catalyst makes it much harder and ready to take more abuse, as far as nitro content, etc., it also sprays better and aids in a faster drying, which means no runs, try to thin this paint, as recommended with mineral spirits, and its a mess that runs and takes forever to dry.
Krylon although some guys use it, I've seen some less than desirable results with it, is less able to handle nitro it seems and doesn't do as well, but this observation is of many years ago, they may have upgraded the formula.

This should be enough to get you started, I'm sure some one else will have more ideas for you. All I can say is that I have used many types of paints and after many, many miserable tries, what you read here is what has worked for me, taking also in consideration the amount of money being spent.

If using automotive paints you must use a good carbon filter to protect yourself, you do not want these carcinogens in your lungs, and they will kill you if you don't!

Hey guys,

Thank you for the replies, I have been away from the computer for the weekend, I am going to read through the threads now, I am sure I will have additional questions.

But big thanks!

Mike.