Helo, Commander.. interest comment on C/G...I'm a bit far from my Smith right now (a tad above 1.600 km... ) but when I'm back home I'll check it out...

Best regards from Brasil!

Reply to Warbird 2. Ray,
Hope you get this. Ok on London smp. No contact yet.


Apologies in general to those who know their C/G from their xmas turkey . You can hang your smp upside down on C/G as we know, but much easier right way up! Over and out on that [unless someone asks]


Regards, Glen.

A question for all of you experienced SMP builders. The plans show only two hinges per aileron plus of course the torque rod on the inboard side. Is this arrangement strong enough or should there bea third hinge added?

Patiently awaiting the 14" snowfall,

Dave

I put in a third hinge on each side

Won't hurt a bit

Don

<span style="font-size: larger"><span style="font-size: x-large">THANK YOU DON </span></span></p>

Tcraft.

I used hinges with steel pins, Three on each side is fine although I just have two but three better still. Make sure you put Vaseline on the hinge pins before cyno fixing.

glen

TCraft, I dont know how far you have got , but if you do use steel hinge pins dont forget to recess the hinge line to bury the round part with pin. Glen.

Hi Glen,
I've used the metal pinned hinge quite a lot in years past. They have their own installation requirements to be sure. I've mostly settled in to using Sig easy hinges. (CA hinges) Not because they are better, just easier. Although I don't recall ever having had a failure with them.
We've received our first blast of about 6" with another 14" scheduled today and tomorrow. Did you ever locate that blasted snow shovel?
Dave

Hey Dave,

I noticed in an earlier post in this thread you were asking about getting good fitting fuse trusses / miter joints. I've attached some pics here of a method I use that is simple and very effective. Credit for the pics and the very clever tool go to Walt of BuiltbyWalt - a builder extraordinaire! Thanks Walt!

I would also highly recommend the miter saw and miter sanders from Fourmost products - I use them all the time!

Regards,

Bob

Dave, I realised,as i should have done,[sorry] that you must be a very skilled model builder in order to even contemplate a Smith. It is always difficult to judge skills on line. BUTTHEREARECLUES, like Minis!!

Best wishes , Glen.

Dave, As it does in this country the snow, a full 6" and all the Supermarket car parks closed [ anybody out there got a Turkey!], is going as fast as it came. You may now have my shovel.


Beans for Xmas , Glen.

Hi Bob,
Would you be referring to the great Walt Umland?( I believe the last name is correct)I'm familiar with him through a CL forum. He, to me, is the high muckety muck of model builders and also a fine human being. I sure wish I would have had that system when framing the fuse sides.
Thanks for the build lesson.

God bless and Merry Christmas,
Dave

No problem Dave -

I think Mr. Umland is a different Walt - if you check out "Builtbywalt" . Com or check out some of the Carden build threads you'll see examples of his fine work - something I aspire to for sure.

Anywho...good luck with your SMP - I'll be following along!

Best regards,

Bob

Hey Glen,
I'm sure my building skills are second to most posters on this site. Truthfully if I had known what a Sig "craftsman" kit really meant I probably would have selected another subject.Anyway I was considering using 3/8 or 1/2 inch air foil shapedtubular aluminum ( UK speak: aluminium)
covers over the cabane and N strut wires. The balsa covering over these looks to be more of a lesson in patience rather than practicality.
Glen have a great Christmas
and God Bless You,

Dave

P.S. - Thanx for the loan of the snow shovel
but mine has an 8 HP motor and has
done it's job this morning.

Hi Dave, hope you had a great Xmas. Family chipped in on Turkey so all went well . Terrible here, one flake of snow and everything stops!

Note your comments on struts , I too did not want to follow the Sig plan, but I am not sure if I made it any easier for myself.

I made up four "N" struts in medium balsa 3/8 /1/8 strips, designed to place the wire struts in center, [ already soldered together] . I then cut two thick blocks of MDF, covered in cling film. Made hard wood spacers slightly less than 1/4 thick. Now [I am getting there!] assembly- Lay one N strut on MDF, spread thinly with 30 min epoxy , place wire N strut onto balsa , coat inside of other balsa N strut with epoxy, place that over to match , cover all with other MDF block ANDTHEN squeeze the blocks together to meet spacers, with strong clamps. This will press the wire [including soldered joints] into the balsa. Much later, take apart and you have cabane struts completely covered . Sand tosymetrical shape. I did the same for end wing struts,only for those I used thinner balsa. All looks good to this day.

There is a saying in UK [ you may have it] "Please dont try this at home!!!!!

Happy NewYear, Glen.</p>

Probably obvious- but one at a time. Glen.

Hello Glen,
Very glad to see you've survived the holidays! I don't want to come off as too much of a dolt (maybe theshoe fits) but could you tell me what MDF stands
for? Your method seems at least as easy as following the plans. I've seen a few photos of the SMP with just bare painted wire that don't look too bad. My thoughts on the airfoil shaped aluminum tubing were poorly thought through. It won't work.

Dave

P.S. Just about wore out my snow shovel!

Hello,

"MDF" = medium density fiberboard....available at your Home Depot Etc...hopefully means the same in UK!

Regards,

BOB

Thanks Bob!

Dave, Sorry , I thought afterwards to spell it [ medium density fibreboard] out.Bob got it right. The block of mdfis 12mm thick [at least it is here] nice and tough. Cut just a little larger than the N strut so that the bends clear the sides, about 4.25 by 5.5 inches times 2 pieces. you will end up with a balsa sandwich reinforced with wire. Bit tough to eat, dont try! I rounded the inside corners of the N just to make it look nice.

The end wing struts can be madein single lengths and the diagonal strut [ hard balsa] can be added afterwards. You will have a thin wire sandwich 1/4 wide 1/8 deep made into airfoil by sanding. Except of course where the diagonal strut is glued. As you realise the MDF [or indeed strong plywood] will be cut to suit.

Regards, Glen. 10 .45 pm here, night night.

Good Heavens Glen, don't you ever go to bed!! Thanks for the detailed instructions.
Dave

Dave, I said in post 36 to sand struts to airfoil shape. All that is needed is a simple "O"val shape keeping balsa fat round wires. The smith is 10/10 on drag anyway.

We are told you dont need much sleep when you get older but at 80 I disagree!

Glen.

Good morning Mr. Chelmer,
At 80 years of age I really need to start treating you with more respect! I'm no where near needing my strut assemblies, just looking down the road. Actually I'm just final fitting the engine cowling. I'm disappointed in how much material I had to remove to get engine clearance. Almost wish I'd had a 2 stroke of some flavor to use. But I do like the 4 stroke. I'm not familiar with the 10/10 ratio you expressed but I'll just assume it's good. I saw earlier photos of your mini. Love the yellow and red. Time for more coffee.

Dave

Dave,
Thanks for your kind thoughts. On my Wii fit report I have an age of 57 years. So all you flyers out there who would likekeep flying many more years than your age, go get your Wii NOW!!

Enjoy the Party!

Glen.

What are your preferrences or experiences regarding the lower wing incidence? I'm fitting my wing now and it looks as though I'll be sanding out quite a bit of balsa.

Dave</p>