I recently purchased a Nomad Sailplane. This is a nostalgia kit first made in the late 70's, I think, and recently re-released by Dream Catcher Hobbies. My question is what is the easiest way to taper the training edges on the elevator and wings. The build material is sheet 1/4" balsa and I want to insure a smooth and uniform taper on all the training edges. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Bob

I use the center line method, draw a line in the center of the TE, then with the piece flat on the table ,with a 6 inch sanding block, sand from each side to the center line , holding the block at the desired angle takes a little practice but it works well, and will give you a centered taper .



Highlander

bbrockel:

The Master Airscrew razor plane will save you a lot of time.

And with practice you will find it's very good for making the angle cuts on the leading edge as well.

Bill.

A bench mounted belt sander makes very quick work of this task. Finish it off with a standard block sander and you're almost ready to cover.

John

I'll second the suggestion of the Master Airscrew razor plane. A very simple and effective tool that will let you do things you hadn't thought of before!

I prefer a bit longer sanding block. I use ne that is about 5" wide and 10" long. You can wrap one full sheet of sandpaper around it and hold it in place with your hand.

The benefit of having the longer sanding block is that it keeps you from sanding humps and bumps into your edges. A short sanding block can sometimes lead to a washboard look in your edges.

For sanding balsa. Just start out with 80 grit and finish with 120 grit.

You could make a sanding block from 3/4" particle board; available at any home improvement store. Cut to desired size with a table saw or jig saw.

If you want a consistant taper on your edges; just use a shim to prop up your trailing edges stock. For instance; use a 3/4" thick piece of wood under the side you wish to sand-- then sand with your block-- always keeping your block level to the table underneath.

Hope this helps.

You said that it is SHEET balsa?? Is the trialing adge not tappered at all?? If they are not tappered yet I draw a line on one edge where it will mate up to the wing or tail and kind of eye ball the angle and use a #5 wood plane made by Stanley. I picked it up on Ebay for $12.00 plus shipping. It is longer then the MA razor plane and when the blade is sharp cuts like you are goun through butter.

If you are asking about how to angle the leading edge of the control surface, then I use a 6X48 belt sander and then touch it up with my plane.

Dru.

Thanks one and all for the tips. I'll have to give them a try and then decide which method works best for me.
Bob

I`m not conversant with this kit or the components but I picked up the following trick some years ago and it makes this job a breeze.

If scratchbuilding, plane these items to the wedge shape with a razor plane from the full sheet of balsa. Cut the ailerons and elevators to width from the full sheet after the planing is done.

It really makes the job a lot easier than struggling with shaping these items previously cut to required planform.

Alan W

Cut the taper on a bandsaw with the table tilted. Works like a champ, and then you can clean it up with a sanding block.

Roger

And if you do it carefully you get both ailerons from one piece of wood.

Bill.

Bill,

Cutting 2 ailerons from on piece of stock ,would give you an aileron that only has a taper on one side , the other being flat ,?????

Highlander

It would only be flat on one side until you cut/planed/sanded the bevel for the hinges.

John

Highlander:

Consider taking a 1/2" square stick, cutting it cross corners to get two pieces of tri-stock.

Now take the 3/8" by 1.5" board and cut it cross corners, as your did the square stick. Then you have two pieces of "Aileron" stock from one board.

Clear now? Thought it was plain before. Sorry.

Bill.

one old method is to place a length of 1/4 music wire at the front of the piece and a piece of 1/16 music wire at the other side and sand till done.wing is flat bottom you could just replace with commercial t.e stock.

scalebldr Is right on with both his suggestions. I have used both methods but the latter is best . Use a piece of 1/4" steel rod or redi-bolt & 1/16th welding rod , much cheaper than piano wire !MAX H.

John,

I see whats up now , kinda dense sometimes I guess, thanks for the explanation,

after drawing it out , I finally got it ,

Highlander

Pictures are my best friend

John