My stoopid thoughts. What color shows up best for YOU in the sky? For me bright yellow, white, and black may as well all be the same. However a True Red vs silver makes a great contrast. Or Neon yellow vs carbon fiber shows well. Blue and silver work for me too. It really depends on what you want/can to see.

Keep in mind my slow planes do 120.

I'm thinking that you're gut is right. A bit of color theory using my trusty Staedtler color wheel shows it too.

If I'm going to base my primary scheme on pearl purple then its complimentary color is bright yellow. The lime green is off by an awkward half-step. If I want the lime green to be dominant the its complimentary color is a red-violet, closer to the pearl red - but again it's a half step off.

One of the interesting things that I found has to do with cool and warm colors. Apparently cool colors tend to disappear in bright light. I can attest to having blue trim on planes flat disappear in sky whereas the warm colors from red thru yellow pop. The two colors that I'm playing with (lime green and purple) are really neither warm or cool, they are both pretty "warmth" neutral. Don't know what the heck that means other than it doesn't seem to work.

Time to rethink the colors for sure.

Vicman - this is "supposed"to be a pretty fast plane - old school pattern where speed and fast maneuvers ruled. Prop pitch starting at 9. It NEEDSto be very easy to pick up on and track.

Hey, I still have 4Star60, LT-40, Kadet Senior, Hog Bipe, SSEperformance (yea, right) on my mind. Slow floaters don't get lost. My only foray into speed was a Skyraider with 2 1/2" red & yellow checker covering on the wing bottoms and yellow with black trim on the top. Spotting my little avitar SSE was sooooo easy.

Possibly you should start out with bright yellow for the model? Possibly?

Using your purple only as accent, as you have. Then, you could incorporate the black and white checks I mentioned, in a large percentage of the wing area.

Obviously your last renderings were much more apealing than your first attempts.

Not that there's anything wrong with your first attempts.

Maybe, checks close to the fuselage on one side and placed outboard on the other. I'm talking wings here.

This way, when you fly, you won't have to pay as much attention.

This model, see photo, has wingtip color that brakes up the color following the leading edge color. It's also painted the same on the bottom.

Checks could take the place of the blue on one side, then have them near the fuse on the other.

Note, I used no complementry colors. Even the pastel pink and pastel blue works, not to mention the real Gold Leaf. That's not a shadow line on the stab, the stab is white and mediam gray.

I painted this model in the early 90's. Scheme still works today. IMHO.

Great Thread, gives you the chance to show off. [sm=bananahead.gif]

Keep up the good work, and progress.

Terrible photo, I'll try to improve it.

Charles

Icaved - no more green. In fact, the retailer allowed me to exchange the green, pearl yellow and pearl red for some of my old standbys. The covering scheme will be a base film made up of Ultracote bright yellow and white. The leading edge of the wings get the yellow treatment as our field's predominant final approach is dominated by what's called the hog back, foothills for the Rockies. When the plane drops below the the hog back the wings frequently disappear. Yellow is one of the best options for keeping an eye on the plane.

Time to return to the trim strip sequence as described by MinnFlyer.

Looking better. Great improvment if you go back and take a look at what you first presented.

I wouldn't have a straight line ending with the yellow from tip to tip. I also believe you should remove a portion of it. Really not needed as you mentioned the "straight on" visibility.

The red is fine but the purple should be reduced in width.

The yellow fuselage color would appear stronger if you used more of it. On that model, I'd like to see the intersection of color change, way closer to the tail feathers. An angle is fine. Possibly even using a different color for "all" the tail feathers. Could keep the forward area of the fuse white and "all" of the tail feathers yellow.

BTW. The purple with yellow is too compplimentary. I'd rethink that.

White, orange and blue work well. May elect to try one, just to see how it comes out.

Orange is the safety color on top of wings on aircraft.

Good job and kudos on your effort. You are putting some time into this, but I believe it's worth it.

Lookin good!

Charles

Boy - the thread content has definitely been redirected. There is so little information available on covering jobs (of course there's magnificent scale stuff - whole set of different issues). Thx for your input.

Let be see if I understand ...

On color combinations:
I started this current approach using a white base, a yellow dominant with purple & red trim. Like you said, purple & yellow are (fully) complimentary - pretty aggressive. The purple & red is off a bit. Looking at white base, yellow dominant with blue & red trim makes for a yellow/blue/red triad. Yea, I'm a techie at heart and look for "the rules" that make sense.

Interesting that you pick orange to go with blue because they are (fully) complimentary (like purple & yellow). I understand that a "perspective" color wheel would probably look quite different than a RYB wheel. One of these lifetimes I'll figure it out.

On "lines":
OK, I'm fairly clueless. If I were to draw a picture of a super model, my misdirected sense of scale would result in something a bit rubenesque.

Wing leading edge: I'm not sure I got what you're saying about the straight line of the yellow on the wing's LE - but here's what I think that I heard: The yellow leading edge is fine but shouldn't be so "thick". Also, the trailing edge line of the yellow should not be straight between the two wing tips. I went ahead and made the yellow leading edge more narrow and kept it in line with the wing's leading edge.

Wing blue trim: I skinny'd it down both on the lateral trim as well as the diagonal trim. I went ahead and wrapped the blue trim on the right wing back to the aileron. What 'cha think?

Ok - 'nuf of the BS

Some mo' feedback please. Check the top view of the wings and stab. The left has a simple lateral blue trim while the right extends the lateral blue trim back along the inside of the red.

As Jackie Gleason would have said "and awaaaayyyyy we go".

I prefer the drawing to the right, looks like it's taking shape. Absolutely!

I like the tail feathers all one color as a base with your accents. Great!

The angled line on the fuselage is to "angled." Follow the angle of the vertical stab. Just bring it forward a bit from the vert. stab. line.

Complementry colors. Colors have "values." Complements can work, but they work better when the value is changed. Bright orange with robin's egg blue, for example. Or, bright yellow with light violet instead of a deep purple.

Nothing wrong with pastel colors. Girls like them.

Keep in mind that these ideas and thoughts are just MYHO. My goal has always been, to have models that don't look like everyone elses models. Even when the model is the same. Schemes are everything.

Color choice, color combinations, percentages of colors, and the application or use of them, "in designs," is what makes a great looking model. Takes time and a thought process, not to mention, a bunch of "thumb nail" drawings. That's how it's done.

Now, for those that can just pull a scheme out of thin air, you have my blessings.

Gotta tell ya, the drawings are shaping up!

Well worth the effort.

Almost at the "Finish Line!"

Charles

Whenever I use iron on covering I always put small pieces on inside corners first, like the aileron recesses on the wing. I try to make a piece of covering wrap from one edge then across bottom then over the top to then be sealed aginst that same edge. 'Plan for the tips accordingly' which is a 'catch all' term due to the unlimited variety of designs.

Coverings that require priming and painting are my first choice because seems can be eliminated or hidden as per the origional airplane modeled. Goo Luck, ARUP

Advice is always "IMHO" and not criticism - so, thx ...

I went ahead and scanned samples of Ultracote covering with the intent of getting a more accurate rendering of the end-state colors. Ultracote does not have a pure blue. Closest is sky blue. Shoulda done this yesterday BEFOREI drove 120 miles round trip to my favorite "inexpensive good stuff" hobby shop.

Iapplied the right wing / stab treatment to both wings and adjusted the side yellow / white seam to be consistent with the angle of the fin's leading edge. Some day when I gain a bit of "cutting confidence" I'll graduate to curves. But that's later.

When you looked at the side rendering of the covering scheme the angle of the yellow/white seam must have bothered you - felt "wrong". Can you explain how your "eye" scans a covering job? Are you looking for a style that statically imparts motion? Btw - I'm thinking about your warbird combat art work when Iask this. What parts are you trying to "bring out" with trim location and size? What are you trying to push back into the background? I know, if you tell us you'll have to kill us ... just askin' ...

Like I said earlier - this thread has gotten a bit distracted from the original intent. Boy, now THAT's never happened to me before

'preciate your input ...

Oh yea - Ihave left white borders around the fer & blue trim to provide depth to the scheme - not considering the affect this will have during the covering process.

ARUP - I understand using what I call a "lap strip" - a small piece of covering that is laid down before the base covering at the seams which otherwise would be nearly impossible to seal.

Some day (soon I hope) I'll graduate to prime-n-paint. Just one or two additional skills ... ARG!

Looking at your name and location I had to think of Adolph Rupp and Kentucky's basketball program - wonder if there is a BNITE from Indiana? Or JPA from PA ... A mind is a dangerous thing ...

Like I said - a mind is a dangerous thing ...

Nose art - one of my heros - hey, we have the same birthday ...

Well - back to dark blue - not worth the $$to buy a roll for the trim. Not an original color combo for me - my LT-40. It's a club trainer and I wanted there to be a significant top-to-bottom differentiation.

I added a variation - add some curves to the trim ...

Thought I'd move the side trim back to that the curve at the top matches the front fin filler. Also tried using an additional bit of red trim on the wing ends just inside the blue trim.

I feel like the man with two watches - he never knows exactly what time it is.

WOW!

To say the least, and what a progression not to mention the improvment. FANTASTIC!

Huston, I believe we have a scheme. And a great scheme it is.

The added color makes a world of difference and so does the small detail of the curve of the colors at the TE. Slight but SUPER!

Now, only one or two more changes or additions. It appears as though your colors along the LE are true to thickness from the root cord to the tip.

My feeling is, that these colors should be a tad thicker at the root and taper a bit towards the tips. The verticle stab and rudder are now solid color yellow. You could brake this up, using the element on the side of the fuselage and repeating it on the forward part of vert stab. Possibly starting with the first color being white, then folowed by those two colors.

Other than this, you nailed it! BAM! Nailed!

Here's something interesting, with all said and done, you left a suitable area of white, "a field" which will except "graphicxs" or "lettering" of some sort.

And guess what? I'll make your graphicxs, for that area, for free! Did I say free? I guess I did.

Decide what you want then let me know.

Great effort and what a Thread.

Kudos!

Charles

Thanks much for your excellent input Charles.

I'm on board with the tapered yellow leading edge on the wing top and bottom. I'm not so sure about the fin leading edge treatment. It "appears" that the fuse side treatement is going one way and the fin trim is going a slightly different direction. Is that just me?

Yes, it's you.

My suggestion on the accents on the vert stab, was NOT to have straight lines of color, but, to have the identical lines that exist on the fuselage, looking straight on. "Ya got it?" A line from the movie Galaxyquest.

Do that "squiggle" on the verticle stab, using the forward 30%. The first 20% would be white, then those two colors. You could also carry those colors horizontal across the top 20% of the vert stab.

Give that a go and watch the improvment!

Looking better all the time.

Charles

Some days Ican see clearly now but then there are days like today ...

Well - seems like RCU is having a bout of heartburn - technology - pftzzzzzzzzzzzzz!

IQUITuploading

Your "Files" are LARGE!

You have them drawn full size. Correct?

Hang in there!

Charles

I've been using this same technique for several years, hundreds - no thousands of posts that included pics. Only in this thread (and others today) have my pictures been this unmanageable! My camera is taking the same pictures. My Visio is saving the same JPG files as it has for the last 3 years. I've lived with computer-based technology for a long time (as you know) and I have absolutely NO patience for "things just happen to change".

I forced the "scheme" tool to its smallest format.

More better ...

The side view looks a bit like a downhill ski run.

And, just to remember, the 1st iteration ...

I love this thread, I think it is very interesting to see a progression of covering. It has tought me a lot, I just hope that I can put some of it too use.

Jon

Minnreefer - I have an LT-40 the needs covering and a Somethin' Extra kit that's about to start its adventure. Just may have to toss these things into the ring (with better thread description) in hopes of getting some dialog going. Maybe not 'cause it's kinda like those pictures that were popular 15 years ago - just look like chaos until you focused just right and then you saw the Mayflower sailing into Plymouth ... That's how I felt sometimes just trying to visualize Charles's suggestions.

What's wrong with snow sports?

Yes, I agree, looks a bit "downhill." However, you did not add the colors to the top of the rudder and vert stab as I suggested. This small task will eliminate the top curves and cut down , in appearence only, the size of your vert stab and rudder.

Maybe 20% to 25% of the area, using white first then followed by the other two colors.

Another interesting thing. With the advent of ARF's being introduced into the modeling market, especially now with all kinds of 3D airplanes, modeler's, have had absolutely no input as to the color combinations offered by these USA/China dealers/manufacturers.

They just do it and through it in your face. Nice to have some control over your own design, good bad or indifferent. At least it's "your" design.

Nothing wrong with that.

If you would like to see some original schemes, just visit Avaiojet's Gallery. Doesent matter if you like them or not, the owner's do. That's the important thing.

It's what you want.

Charles

Some days it takes 3 cups of coffee. 8 oz cups? Nope, 16 oz. cups! Em, how about a coffee "40"?

I'm liking the 3rd iteration. Combines the 1st with the rear flipup of the 2nd. Just not keen on the forward fin treatment of 2nd.

In the 4th the top of the fuse side trim lines have been softened to better match / transition into the curve of the trim on the fin's forward section. As a result, the side trim wrap around to the fuse top moved forward so the top has been modified and republished.

Just keep tweakin' - 5th side turns the rudder trim trailing edge down (like the 1st) ...

6th side: For grins Ioverlayed a big oval over the fuse & fin that closely matched the curve on the bottom of the fin / rudder white / yellow boundary. The fuse and fin trim were then adjusted to match the oval's curve. The oval was proportionally expanded to each side of blue then red trim.

I can see the potential of using several ovals, varying in size and proportion (from pure circle to a highly skewed oval) and overlaying them over the fuse, wings and tail. The biggest challenge would be to cut the templates. But wait, I just bought a printer that can print images up to 44 inches long. Emmmmmm ....

For the moment Ilike the bottom &top asis with 5th side view ...

For me Blue and white works very well with blue as the majority of the color and geometricly apealing shapes differing from bottom to top, especially a metal flake blue like metalic blue monokote and ultracote pearl blue. I also like mixing a small amount of cub yellow or orange in.

Large amounts of red are diffcult for me especially when put against white even with silver separating the plane just disappears on me. Large amounts of yellow is hard for me too.

Black is ok for me in small amounts but black can disappear too.

Tom - did you do this SSE project with sweeping black across to forward edge of the wing followed by metallic blue & black-and-white checks?

Btw - my dark blue will turn to black in the air. The bright yellow will shout out. The red will hold its own and the primary white works fine at our field. Basing this on the LT-40 trim job.

I love the metalic blue in the photo - it really pops in the pics. But I'm an Ultracote guy ...