drill slipped while mounting wing
#1
Thread Starter

After carefully measuring, re-measuring, triple checking, my drill hit a knot or something dense in the mounting blocks and slid off-center. The wing now is now out of alignment by a full 0.5 inch!
My fix will be to open the two holes in the wing to allow for enough “travel” so that I can re-align the wing. Once properly re-aligned, I’ll epoxy two “washers” over the widened holes. Washers wil be made from scrap ply. See pics below. Please comment on my fix or suggest others, thanks.
My fix will be to open the two holes in the wing to allow for enough “travel” so that I can re-align the wing. Once properly re-aligned, I’ll epoxy two “washers” over the widened holes. Washers wil be made from scrap ply. See pics below. Please comment on my fix or suggest others, thanks.
#4
Thread Starter

I thought about that, but I'm thinking that the chances of the drill slipping again would be high - may be the way to go though
#5
The dowel is a very good idea and not to miss it again you can start with a small drill bit and enlarge it gradually to the desired diameter, its easier to track a small hole better.
#6
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From: GraftonNew South Wales, AUSTRALIA
Get yourself some brad point drill bits. They have a sharp point on the end that lets you position the bit accurately and greatly reduces the risk of slippage.
I managed to get a 3mm one that is great for point hinges.
Terry
I managed to get a 3mm one that is great for point hinges.
Terry
#7
Thread Starter

looks like everyone says use the dowel, I'll guess I'll go with your sugesstions - this is only my third RC plane build. I would think that any hardwood dowel will do, as long as it's a good epoxy job and the re-tap has been hardened with thin CA.
#9
ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
I wouldn't touch the wing holes if there is room to re-drill the mount blocks in the fuselage?
From the looks of the picture your holes in the wing are centered well enough to leave those holes alone, The misalignment is in the fuse right?
I wouldn't touch the wing holes if there is room to re-drill the mount blocks in the fuselage?
From the looks of the picture your holes in the wing are centered well enough to leave those holes alone, The misalignment is in the fuse right?
#10
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From: South Lyon,
MI
Once you get the hole figured out and you're ready to redrill, put some reference marks on the wing and fuselage for a visual aid. Also, lots of weight on the wing (old magazines, socks filled with coins, bags of BB's, etc) to help hold it in place.
#12
Here's my 2 cents. I would epoxy a piece of hard balsa or dowel in the bad hole. Next, make a drill guide by drilling a 1/16" hole in a piece of aluminum. This will prevent your drill from wandering when you drill into the wing. Securely tape the aluminum drill guide in position on the wing. Verify your drill is perpendicular to the wing's surface, then drill your 1/16" pilot hole. Next, enlarge the pilot hole with a 1/8 drill bit. Carefully un-chuck the drill bit and leave it in the hole. This will pin your wing in place and allow you to drill the second hole without having the wing shift on you. Keep increasing your drill bit size until you have the correct hole size. Finish enlarging the first hole and you are done.
#13
Thread Starter

I decided to re-drill the mounting blocks and then epoxy a dowel in. The first one went fine although the dowel is a very tight fit. On the second block, the one where the drill initially slipped, I had a slight problem. The drill (enlarging from a tapped 13/64 to a 3/8 hole) was in about 1/8 inch, same as last time, when it “snagged” and cracked the block. Since this was supposed to be a fix, and it was the second time this happened, I let out a few bad words (actually there were a lot of really bad words). So this is my new fix:
1. Cut the original block off at the wing saddle and sand flat
2. Use 1/8 scrap ply laminated with 30 min epoxy to make a new wing block
3. Use 1/8 inch scrap ply to make a new saddle with an opening to accept the new block, epoxy new saddle to old
4. Re-drill that little bast#%@(^
I think there are two causes of all this hassle, the first being a drill bit that wasn’t sharp enough and the second a very uncooperative piece of wood.
1. Cut the original block off at the wing saddle and sand flat
2. Use 1/8 scrap ply laminated with 30 min epoxy to make a new wing block
3. Use 1/8 inch scrap ply to make a new saddle with an opening to accept the new block, epoxy new saddle to old
4. Re-drill that little bast#%@(^
I think there are two causes of all this hassle, the first being a drill bit that wasn’t sharp enough and the second a very uncooperative piece of wood.
#14
Thread Starter

canDo - great proceedure, I will try that pinning idea. Unfortunately, I have very few tools and no scrap aluminum but I'm thinking that the top from a can of beans might work.
#15

My Feedback: (158)
ORIGINAL: Scratchie
I decided to re-drill the mounting blocks and then epoxy a dowel in. The first one went fine although the dowel is a very tight fit. On the second block, the one where the drill initially slipped, I had a slight problem. The drill (enlarging from a tapped 13/64 to a 3/8 hole) was in about 1/8 inch, same as last time, when it “snagged” and cracked the block. Since this was supposed to be a fix, and it was the second time this happened, I let out a few bad words (actually there were a lot of really bad words). So this is my new fix:
1. Cut the original block off at the wing saddle and sand flat
2. Use 1/8 scrap ply laminated with 30 min epoxy to make a new wing block
3. Use 1/8 inch scrap ply to make a new saddle with an opening to accept the new block, epoxy new saddle to old
4. Re-drill that little bast#%@(^
I think there are two causes of all this hassle, the first being a drill bit that wasn’t sharp enough and the second a very uncooperative piece of wood.
I decided to re-drill the mounting blocks and then epoxy a dowel in. The first one went fine although the dowel is a very tight fit. On the second block, the one where the drill initially slipped, I had a slight problem. The drill (enlarging from a tapped 13/64 to a 3/8 hole) was in about 1/8 inch, same as last time, when it “snagged” and cracked the block. Since this was supposed to be a fix, and it was the second time this happened, I let out a few bad words (actually there were a lot of really bad words). So this is my new fix:
1. Cut the original block off at the wing saddle and sand flat
2. Use 1/8 scrap ply laminated with 30 min epoxy to make a new wing block
3. Use 1/8 inch scrap ply to make a new saddle with an opening to accept the new block, epoxy new saddle to old
4. Re-drill that little bast#%@(^
I think there are two causes of all this hassle, the first being a drill bit that wasn’t sharp enough and the second a very uncooperative piece of wood.
Also,
I hate to see that block out in the middle like that supported on only one side, Yikes
I always prefer to have a piece of ply that spans both side of the Fuse, or at least have the block fit in a corner where the side meets a bulkhead
What Kit is this?
#16
Thread Starter

It's a 1994 Top Flite AT-6.
I was thinking about a single piece spanning the fuse, but those mounting blocks extend into the wing saddle 1/8 inch so I thought it would be ok.
I was thinking about a single piece spanning the fuse, but those mounting blocks extend into the wing saddle 1/8 inch so I thought it would be ok.
#17

My Feedback: (158)
If that's the way the plans/kit call for it It most likely is fine, But I'd at least add some extra gussets to the sides of the block,, not just at the bottom. The further that bolt hole get away from the side, the more torque is being applied to it. Allot depends on you're flying style too, I'm a pretty aggressive flyer, so I like to have thing extra strong when ever possible
good luck
good luck
#18
Thread Starter

I'm a new flyer with the goal of bringing the plane down in the condition it went up in, and satisfied with scale-like flight. Maybe some limited acrobatics as I get more experience.
#19
ORIGINAL: Scratchie
I decided to re-drill the mounting blocks and then epoxy a dowel in.
I decided to re-drill the mounting blocks and then epoxy a dowel in.
Could you fix the wing firmly against the fuse before redrilling?
May be temporarly wood guides on the portion of the wing facing the interior of the fuse box?
Take a look at these articles:
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ruction/11.htm
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...ruction/10.htm
#20
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From: Chicago,
IL
Scratchie....whatever route you choose to do to fix it....when you have your measurements where you want them, get a felt tip marker and scribe a line across the fuse bottom and the wing. Double check the aligment is perfect when your line is drawn
It's sometimes nice to have a visual when doing something like this. Remember "Eyes on the prize"
It's sometimes nice to have a visual when doing something like this. Remember "Eyes on the prize"



