RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Just my little FYI regarding paint. I tooka piece of my roll of Solartex to Lowes today and got one of the sample sizes of color matched.I got home and dida test patch. It matches perferctly. And only cost $3.
Just my 2 cent's.</p>

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Good idea VJ. In fact I've got a can of that in the ol' hanger right now! If I had a swatch of the Cub Yellow Solartex I could compare it. What about a clear coat? I know Robert thinks I don't need it, and who knows, I may not use it. I've heard of using a clear coat from a can and use a foam brush to put it on. Any hints or tips here? - Hey, shouldn't this be in the C/W Cub build thread?

Robert, that's what I did with my little extra. The LusterKote didn't match at all. The latex was cheap but not as easy, had to borrow a paint sprayer.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

It can be applied with a good brush with a little floquil after thinning.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Robert, your 2 cents will save 4 bucks! That''s good math in my book...

DavidI would as Robert suggested clear coat your Solartex. I've seen a few planes at the field that were soiled that had no clearcoat. Having said that they were glow engines and you know what a mess they make. As far asapplication I prefer spraying over brushing, I get better results.

Here are some photos of tonight's progress. All the ribs have been strengthened with ply and the landing gear block fits well in its location. I also have included a picture of the torque block that has been epoxied to the bottom of the landing gear block. Included in the kit was a solid block of hardwood for this purpose, I chose not to use it. Rather I laminated two pieces of basswood and I used the grain to my advantage by turing each block 45 degrees from each other. I have done everything thatI could think of to strengthen this high stressed area.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Hey VJ, this is meant as good humor, those gear are gonna be so tight the wing will break instead. LOL

And as you I not only prefer spraying but will not use a brush. I only suggested a brush because CFF has no equipment for spraying.
Keep those pics coming.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

I have no equipment... YET!  Just give me a year or two!

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

I used Solartex for the first time on my Ryan and I thought I was having an out of body experience.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...eeth_smile.gifNo kidding, I never ever had covering go on that easy with such low heat. Around the compound curve of the wing tips it almost installed itself. really amazing stuff and all you need is an iron, no heat gun, and it comes in many different length rolls which also is great when you need multiple colors. More resistant to punctures also. There is another sig kit for sale on ebay for 250.00 if anyone is interested. VJ your doing a great job building and documenting this build, I know that it takes a lot of time taking pictures and posting so it's much appreciated. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gifhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gifI like your servo mounting brackets for your flaps and ailerons. Have you thought about using button head cap screws instead to make them a little less noticeable? I get alot of my hardware from JR hobby hardware, he has great prices and fair shipping. http://www.jrhobbyhardware.com/shop/

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Raptureboy, you are sooo correct about the ease of installation using Solartex. It is more costly but worth every penny in MHO. I will be sure to document every step of covering when I get to that stage of the build. As far as the button head screws yes I had planned on changing them over when I make it down to the LHS. This is the hardware that I had available at the time for the "mock-up". Good observation and great suggestion. Thanks for the link, I will check them out as well.

Any takers on the Sig kit? Good price, and a lot of fun to build!

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Ooops my bad $225.00 buy it now, no bidding http://www.ebay.com/itm/170922827079...84.m1423.l2648 Don't wait too long I could be really tempted right nowhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...evil_smile.gif

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

That's what I paid for mine.<span style="font-size: larger"> WORTHEVERYPENNY!!!!!!</span>

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Raptureboy, please exercise self control here!  Resist the temptation...  AND LET ME HAVE IT!!!  HA-HA-HA-HA.......

Doh!  Just remembered, can't afford it... [:o]

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Like the gulls in finding nemo- mine mine mine mine http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ey/msn/lol.gifYeh me neither, I have a p-47 on the table and a PT- 19 in the box, a partial hellcat in the corner, and a few repairs scattered here and there, still....... one can dream.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...n/rolleyes.gif

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Hi Raptureboy !
I am still working on the Ryan sta I PM'd you about last year ! Looks like mine will weigh about 14 to 14 1/2 lbs when finished. Do you remember what yours weighed ? We both are running the DLE 20 I remember. Just curious about your weight.

Thanks, Don

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Hey Don, good to hear from you. Mine is running at 12 lbs right now. I broke my wing in two last fall and I repaired it and recovered it in solertex, just the wing for now but I am going to do the tail over this winter and maybe the fuselage also. 14 seems a little high, but the motor can handle it easy. I forget did you glass yours?

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Tonight was pretty exciting for me ( I get excited easily) . I got a chance to preview if my hard work on the wing halves would fit together as planned. So let me start at the begining... This wing has a LOT of dihedral in it, 5-1/4 " to be exact. Joining the two halves together to get a nice tight fit can be difficult and cumbersome to those that have tried. I didn't want to make any mistakes, so here is how I fitted my two wing halves together. I created a simple jig to lift each side of the wing exactly 2-5/8"as indicated on the plans. I then securing the wing to my build board so it wouldn't move around on me. I took a scrap of wood approximatlety 1x3, 15 or so inches long and I secured some 150 grit sandpaper to one side of the board. The board was checked for square and by sliding the board back and fourth against the wing I was able to reproduce the angle that I was looking for.! Now to see it it worked, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sn/biggrin.gif

Ok, so nothing in these pics are glued, nor will I epoxy them yet. First I want to sheet the top and bottom center sections of the wing, then I will true the edges up using the same method that I just described. I will be cutting and fitting a 1/8" ply joiner for the front and rear spars for additional strength.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Nice Work VJ,
I just bought a 1/48 Ryan PT-20 model. My intentions are to build the model and get a 3D scan of the model. I do work with a company that does 3D laser scanning and they can supply me with a file I can import into CAD and scale the plane up to any size. My work is sending me to CAD classes in November so I think the Ryan will be my 1st attempt at building a plane in CAD. With the 3D scanned image it should give me a head start as I will have an accurate 3D model to start with.

Later!!
Anthony

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Great, that sounds exciting and fun, who knew you could do both at work! Keep us updated.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

No comment.  (Some of my coworkers me be reading this!  [X(])

That does look real nice VJ.  Keep 'er goin'!

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Early this A.M. I decided to sheet the top of the right wing before I started my morning chores. After the sheeting was glued and dried I trued up the edgeusing the same methodused to join the wing halves. With a little more sanding theyshould look pretty good.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

What are you talking about, VJ?  They look pretty darn good now!  Ah, I guess you are your own worst critique, right?  :D

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

The wing is officially one piece now! http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sn/biggrin.gif I feel like I got over a huge hurdle. I wanted to strengthen the center section of the wing (Plans called for some 1/4" balsa to join the two halves together) http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...humbs_down.gif. What I did instead was to take some 1/8" Birch ply and sandwiched the front and rear spars with what reminds me of "Chevrons". I used 30 minute epoxy for this particular situation for its strength. After I sheet the bottom center section the wing, it will be glassed with a 4 inch strip of fiberglass cloth for further strengthening. Don't want to disturb theepoxy dryingso I'm done for the evening.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Looks great VJ. Amazing how long it takes for 30 minute epoxy to cure.... :)

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

I always a bit timid when it comes to joining wing halves. For some reason I feel like I'm going to mess it up. It always turns out but after all the work put into wings it is nerve racking.<div></div><div>It looks like yours went together really well.</div><div></div><div>Keep it up! Beautiful build.

I see you are using your Jet Sander as a photo stand.... How is it working when it comes to sanding? You may do something I did to mine. I see in the photo the black spacer in the tracks is not level with the top surface. I shimmed mine up with some blue tape on the bottom to correct that. Jet should really make the piece fit flush.

In the photo you can just barely see the tape / shim on the bottom of the spacer. It took quite a few layers to get it right.</div><div></div><div>SunDevilPilot</div>

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

SDP, I really like the quality of this Jet sander. Don't know how I got along without it. Thanks for the tip, my only negative was what you pointed out, I will shim mine as well. They put that black spacer right where I like to sand! It's so nice now thatI don't get a face full of balsa dust now when I sand....

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

That's exactly what I thought, right in the middle of where I sanded. No problem once shimmed. I have never removed the shim, and dont see that I would. I guess if you were making a lot of circles then you may want the fore and aft track for the circle maker but I have another method that uses the miter tool as a stop block to make circles.

Again, good work!

SunDevilPilot
<br type="_moz" />