Marko70

Stock pipe works well, fuel is ok too (I use 25% Tornado). But the glowplug ... Many of the guys I know, use the O.S. 8 in winter and the A5 in summer. I think, it's too cold outside to use the stock R3. You also should warm up the engine before starting it. Very easy is something like this:




*loool* The guy in the vid is from Austria. Sometimes even for a German hard to understand.
He says "hundert sieben grad" what means, the engine-temp is 107° C.

kevinb456

'hitchhikers guide to the galaxy'

yeah i use 25% tornado aswell, i posted 20% by mistake. must pay more attention when typing! i have been experimenting with different plugs. what temperature is it where you live? do you use the OS 8 or something different? i get a bit confused with plugs - cant all manufacturers just have a standard way of measuring them. because one persons 'hot plug is another persons 'medium' plug.

ive been using a hair-dryer to heat the engine head up

Marko70

Last weekend we had about 0° C, I used the O.S. 8 too. The very first tank we started inside a van, rest of the tanks outside. [8D]

A hair-dryer is of course very stylish!

Dnell

http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm

It sounds like you've been turning needles back and forth . There has been some good tips offered but at the end of the day these engines don't like cold weather and it is hard to get to the bottom of some tuning problems when the engine never gets up to operating temerature which in most cases is close to 200.
I'd sugget turning the needle back to stock settings and don't touch the LSN until you've got the HSN set. Don't forget about your glow plugs. You problem could center around glow plug failure. There are a few tuning articles on the web I'd track them down and have a read.

One more thing that is rarely talked about is the abuse engines take in the cold where they never get up to temp properly. Some may find that by the time spring/summer roles around their pistons and liners will be shot. Be advise is if you must play in the cold start saving.

Marko70

Until now I did about 2 liters with the LRP-engine. Today we tuned the settings a bit, so it had pretty much power. - No damages, nothing broke. Everything went fine. Only the accu was empty very soon. I think it were 4 or 5 tanks. Is that standard?

LST GOD

yo sup
i bought a Z.28R recently about 2 weeks ago (2nd hand) and it was running fine until about 2 days ago when i was walking back from a golf course and the engine just suddenly stopped, so i tried starting her up again and the roto start wouldnt turn the engine over, it was seized up, took it down to the LHS and they said sumthing in the engine was f#*$@d and it wud cost me £70 to repair it, i got this engine because my mach .26 had no compression and cost £70 to repair that so my LHS said here have this used Z.28R for £100 so i walked out with a smile on my face. Now ive had 2 engines break within 3 months, somethings not right, i bought another Z.28R for £75 as my LHS said they would split the price because i had only used 3 or 4 tanks with my other .28

so aniway they said that it could be too lean that could have done it and they said its bo#*@cks had been revved off it.
Is there any tuning tips i could have so it runs perfect, so i dont spend no more cash an a new engine

P.S i didnt tune the engine because it seemed to be really good and had a nice blue healthy glow to the exhaust fumes

cheers
mike

Dnell

Before you break-in your next engine, check this out;

http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php