bdavison

My Feedback: (1)

Im building the Gillows Cessna 180 as a electric plane. I plan to put the Cirrus MJ system in it, and power it with a small IPS motor.

quint-rcu

My Feedback: (24)

I just finished a Dumas Beech Staggerwing for 4 channel e-power and was looking for a new project. The Guillows P-38 sounds perfect. Thanks for posting on this thread guys...

FlyWV

I'm in the middle of a 27" Guillows Mustang which will be aileron/elevator. I used all the electronics from a flyzone voyager except for the battery which is the 220 Mah for the Cox microwarbirds. It definately feels like its on the heavy side but we'll see if I try to fly it when its completely covered and gets weighed. I'm really doubting it though.
I'm also building a Guillows ME109 16" that will be fitted with 2 sub 2g servos, a 1cell Lipo and a geared micro motor with a 5x4 prop. With the airframe done, motor installed and covering on the wing, it seems it will be the same weight as an Aero Ace.

I say go ahead and try. At worst it will be too heavy and you'll have radiogear for another model and a nice display piece.

FlyWV

pics

holderd

Wez
Can you give some details and maybe post pictures of those rotating retracts you have developed?
David

Wez

Hello David,

I will try to take some pictures this weekend.

Regards,
Andreas

holderd

Thanks Andreas, I'll be watching!

Wez

Hi David,

Here are the photos of the prototype retract. Sorry for the delay...

Regards,
Andreas

holderd

Looks great Andreas! I need to study the pictures more until I understand the operation. I may be asking more questions as you move along. Please keep us posted. You might consider a retract construction thread of it's own.
David

Kilgore Trout

I have a Guillows Bird Dog still sitting there in the box waiting...thinking of converting to an electric. I have heard that you do need to increase the angle of attack slightly to achieve better lift. One of these days...

N46203

I was thinking of blowing up the plans and making one of these into a 4 channel glow model. Anyone ever done this? Any suggestions?

ponchoyo

hi there flyers.
i'm building the stuka with 34 inch wingspan. its only been 2 days of building but im already done, now i have questions before applying the tissue. Can someone suggest me a power system, motor, esc and lipo bat with charger. im worried that my plane my not fly, because of wieght , airframe and weak landing gear. I'm making it eletric so please help

kirknkatie

Ponchoyo, I would suggest you look at the weight of your plane. Granted, a brick will fly with a big enough engine, you want your plane to fly well. I would re-evaluate the weight cost of a tissue/dope covering. After doing some research I found Ultracote is one of the lightest inexpensive coverings to go with, you just have to be careful not to tighten it too much or it will crush your plane. If you still want tissue, you'll have to factor that in to the final assesment for motor battery esc combo. The whole power plant should be tailor made to suit the weight of your plane. Any LHS worth their salt could get you a setup that should work fine, if you give them a final plane weight. Once you find out what'll work on your plane, you can shop the market for good deals. That's the extent of my input on the power plant area, but on the plane as a whole, I would recommend (if you haven't already) reinforcing the stress points of the plane to ensure your plane has as many landings as it does takeoffs. The stuka wing design makes it kinda tough to reinforce, but for the most part, you want to add rigidity and strength to the main spar. If the landing gear attach to it, than you may also need to girth it up quite a bit. I've read a bit about supporting the nose area where you plan to install the motor, by adding balsa to the outer part of the fuselage, I'm not sure the cost in weight is worth the support though. Hope that helps, good luck, hope it flys.

Wongulf

I recently converted the 20" Dr1 to four channel electric RC and flew it last week. I first built this model as rubber powered and tissue covered in 1966. I later had a two channel Kraft radio (1971) and thought how fun it would be to fly the little triplane as an RC model but at that time only Dick Tracy could do two way TV on his wristwatch! After building my first all electric (40" Dumas L-19) I dug out the old Dr1 plans and looked at the lipo/brushless/radios available today. The following is the result of about 40 hours of redesign/build time and some carbon fiber etc. I also had the Scout plans from the old days and my friend built it (can you say dog fights). They are not fully complete but the Dr1 comes in at 8 oz/ft2 and the Scout is 7.2 oz/ft2. Both use ThunderPower 765 mAh 2c lipo's driving eflight 250 brushless outrunners with 6/5 gws props (going to try 7/5 apc's). Castle Creations 9 amp esc and 4L reciever with eflight 6 gram servos complete the setup. Both fly very well with straight wings (the Dr1 will climb vertically and is very happy inverted). The Scout wants an upgrade to the 300 eflight outrunner to keep up with the Dr1. Close attention to keeping the CG forward is important for a low all up wieght given the short nose typical of WWI designs and who needs all those ribs anyhow. I don't recommend either bird for beginning builders or flyer's as both aspects of these planes is not for the faint of heart.

ponchoyo

i have all the electronics ready for the stuka to place in, but i have no idea on how to make the ailerons move. a control rod cannot bend.

Mike Taylor

My Feedback: (1)

In spite of your tag-line, you may want to look at the thin teflon tubing (sold as CA applicator tips) for guides, and music wire (as in unwound guitar strings, available in sizes from .008" up) as pushrods. You can make 90 degree arcs that move smoothly was minimum slop. I used this on my 18" Stick and Tissue Albatros in the upper wing and drove both surfaces with 1 Micro Joule/Nuke servo.

Here are two pictures. The first shows the Micro Joule servo mounted in the wing. The servo arm engages a brass rod the is in turn heat-shrink wrapped to the piece of guitar string (I think this was ~/010" dia.). The string runs through the clear teflon tube that is attached to the front of the front spar; the tube was installed in one piece and the center section cut away. The bend can just be seen through the tissue in the other photo. The ends are still wild, but the ends of the wire will be attached to short 'Z' bends that engage the control horns; heat-shrink connections let you adjust the surfaces then a touch of CA at the HS locks it all in place.

ponchoyo

ok thanks for the suggestion, but my 9 g servos dont fit in the cramp wing. how small do servos go? i need to buy new micro servos. sry for my delayed response, I am in no rush to finish this plane.

Mike Taylor

My Feedback: (1)

How small are servos? About 1.6 grams and up...

Falcon makes the coolest, smallest true servos. Thet are 1.6 grams, and ~ 1/2" x 1/2" x 5/8", three moving parts (if you count the motor as 1 part). I added a photo of the 'Breeze' radio/servo block (4-channel RX and 2 servos on one board - 4.8 grams) and a MkIII servo, both with a dime for size comparison.

Conventional servos start with the Blue Arrow 2.5 servos ( that actually weigh closer to 3 grams with the wiring and control horn). You can find these at BSD among other places...

ponchoyo

but the 1.6 gram srvo has a specific small servo connector or does it use the universal connector wires

Mike Taylor

My Feedback: (1)

The Falcon servo come with connectors for either the tiny IDCs shown (standard on the Falcon stuff), or the 'mini-JST' sockets that many other micro systems use (like the Platraco servo RX, JMP servo RX, Micro-Joule RX, etc.). They are small enough that I mount them inside wings on a number of models to get a direct linkage, so far up to 24" WS. Their throw is short and does take some getting used to.

For a more standard servo, the Blue Arrow servos go down to a bit under 3 grams and are just 1/4" thick. They should fit in the Stuka's wing OK as well.

p-80

My Feedback: (1)

im building the 27" wingspan p-40 and i always have the same trouble with these kits the plastic cowl never fits right i wonder if i need to sand alot mor of former b1 to get it to fit have any of you sheeted your entire plane im doing that with mine and am going to cover with resin so i can paint it it is only for static display

Dave ESPI

Funny we are talking about this... I have been flying a twin engine plane from ESTES for a few months and.... well, they don't always last 35 flights, and end up smashy smashy! .... LOL. picked up a Rubberband powered Gullows glider with the intent of adding a powersystem. I get it to "fly", but it just does not have quite enough push to keep it aloft and it sinks to the ground. If I could increase the engine/ motor size and prop, I think I can actualy fly this badboy utelizing the guts from the SkyCruiser.

I messed around with C.O.G. and found this works, but still underpowered It uses a 3.7 V LIPO, so I just need to perhaps go with stronger motors and slightly bigger props and it should work I think. I may try removing a bit of wing weight by just mounting the engines right to the wings without the foam parts.

It really wants to fly, but just a tad too heavy even without the wheels on it. The glider wings and frame itself is heavier than the foam flier it 's guts came from.

60buick

I've had no prblems getting the Guillows airframes to fly. My first was the large A6M Zero. It used a small carburated nitro motor. It has been so long I cannot remember more other than it was 4 channels and this was before micro gear was around. I also remember it was fully sheeted and pretty detailed.

My first 16.5 Guillows was a Hawker Hurricane. It was built heavy so it was very fast but it flew.
After that I stuck to the 16.5 Hellcats. I use the stock kits wood and they fly very good. Just keep them light.

The biggest thing with the Guillows planes is to keep them light and don't crash, they are fragile but fly pretty good.

Neurotex

Dave, try cutting some weight down by losing those motor cowls
and get a carbon fiber rod for the fuselage. Just don't attach the
antenna wire to the rod because it will cause interference.
It also looks like it might be tail heavy. Make it a puller prop and
attach the lipo at the nose. The CG should be 1/3 from the wings
leading edge. I'd also cut the tail down to reduce getting caught
flying in a circle you can't pull out of... and cut some stabalizer flaps.
It should fly.

ponchoyo

is it ok if i use nylon fish line to control the ailerons on a my 34 in. Stuka.