i am usinging recharageable from wal-mart they are enegeriger 4 batteries and charger 19$ plus 4 batteries 10$ have flew several timmes no prdoblem plane flies better than other batteries

Wing covered- no color yet just clear coat.
The V tail is aligned straight to the gull V so wind currents
will lift the tail (hopefully). I might angle the motors to hit
the tail tips also. My planes seem to fly better that way.

looks good neuro. I just got the tail and fuse built for the Slow Stick and glued the wing. Wing spars and electronics are next. I'm waiting on several shippers for that stuff. It's going to be set up with a 10x6 prop, 350 brushed motor, and 1500 mah 2s(cell?) lipo. I should be able to float it and then punch out if necessary. Tim

Sad Face, when I fly in windy conditions I use a 30" x 1/4" silk ribbon as a tail, it keeps the nose down and allows flight without adding weight. In bipe mode you could probably use less ribbon. Unfortunately silk is the only material that seems to work well. Just a thought, Tim

the gull wing is looking good so far, Neurotex. if you're still looking for a covering that is lighter than domestic tissue paper, try some japanese tissue paper. its lighter than the normal stuff by a good enough amount, you should still be able to dope it and paint it like normal as well. i'm sure there's a countless number of online shops that carry it, but a quick google search gave me this site: http://www.darehobby.com/accessories-tissue02.htm i know some hobby shops carry tissue thats meant for planes too, so its probably lighter than target/walmart tissue. probably not as cheap though.

nick

hey have any of you guys been successful in creating aa jet landing gear? it seems as if the jet does not generate as much lift/ needs a much higher angle of attack. Maybe its due to the larger wing or the fact that the wing and motors are even with the fuse. but i just have not been able to get ROG any ideas?

GP, I used a set of wheels I got from Mac(remember him) at aamods.com. Though they were primarily ballast, I did shoot a couple of touch and go's. If his site is down let me know and I'll shoot some pics. For the tail I would use a peice of plastic as a dragger. Tim

Thanks. Tim, post some pics of the Slow Stick. Thanks, micro for
the link for the tissue.

A couple of test flights showed that the double V set at 110 degrees
is unstable in turns. I believe this is because the tail is above the motor's
thrust line.
Starting at a horizontal 180 stab with a conventional tail straightens it
right out. An adjustable V starting at 160 works fine, that is until you
start adjusting it to around 140- then it begins to get funky.
So I'll probably keep it at around 155 and place the rudder under the
fuse to keep it looking like a V tail.

It appears the air current has to be directed atop the stab. The more you
adjust it less than 110 degrees the more it behaves like a rudder.

Neuro,

Love your designs and detailed posts.

Just thinking out loud here from what you posted on the tail position.
Air needs to pass by the tail for the control surfaces to have an effect. Thats a given, and the smoother the flow the better.

From reading your post it occured to me that the counter-rotating wash across the tail may be a problem pushing turbulated air across/around it rendering it less effective.

Just a thought.


Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

You're right and the problem is finding that sweet spot where everything
works in unison instead of working against each other. The closer the V
comes to parallel the more wobble the plane develops and the harder it
is to control.
The diagrams I made up shows a way to adjust the V tail, or any other
tail, so that you can find that spot without constantly cutting & gluing.
It also makes it easier to adjust for different modes of flying without
adjusting rudder and stab flaps.

Gooledperson,

I posted an alright set a while back on this thread. Check it out. They still hold up.



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33...tm.htm#4914777




Redmoon

HI ALL, I hope everyone had a good holiday...I have been keeping up with everything, just haven't had time to sit down.

FERN, your building a plane - GSW , I need some pic's, with that motor and 1500mAh will it be 3D? A friend of mine, the one who got me started on AA's ( same guy that left his 4 motor bipe that I built fo him in the back seat of his car under some clothes in the middle of summer . Anyway he is building , get this , from scratch ( NOT ARF ) a Piper J-cub. I wish him all the luck in the world. Did I mention that has a 72" wing span!! What ever it takes I am going to be there on the maiden voyage. It sould be interesting. Your lights look good , I have a few 14,500mcd brite white 5mm Led's one is going Jet ( 3 total ) and the other 2 are for my Storm Launcher. I think I should build a light bar for my T-MAXX.

Another friend at work has a uncompleted RC toy he is trying to sell me. It's a Dumas Big Swamp Buggy. It's about 28" long x 12" wide , the hule has been put togehter ( fairly well ) and just needs to be sanded then painted. It also comes with a brand new .60 KB. He wants $80 bucks for it and all I need is another project like I need another hole in my head.

GP, I have landing gear on my Jet and it does take off from the groud but it's not stock either. It has a modded Rx with blue/purple SS motors and it hauls ass. It is in pieces right now becouse I am still putting lights in it, started in Oct. I will post some pics later.

To newbies, WELCOME ,I have been running rechargeables from day one. First thing you need to know is an ALK. battery puts out 1.5v ea. X 6 = 9volts, Rechargeables are only 1.2v ea. X 6 = 7.2v. They will work but the best way to use rechargeables is to add 2 cells to the Rx and move the jumper wire inside. on a stock Rx a jumper wire is attached to the 3rd cell if you add 2 cells you need to move the jumper to the 4th cell. If you have any questions please let me know. Happy Flying

My SW and CC are

I'll post pic's tonite. This one will not be three d. This one is to learn to fly 3+ channels. This one being the slow stick. I should be able to float it along at 4-5 mph and then go quickly as well. 3 channel, throttle, elevator, rudder. Should be fun. Tim

Neuro,

This may sound really extreem, but I have way more ideas than time................LOL

It might be possible to see the wash flow by this method.

Make a 3 sided cardboard box. A refrigerator box should work with the "ends removed". Cut out one side leaving enough to support it from collapsing. Cover the cutout with something clear...saran wrap?
Then, hang an AA in the box at one end. Set up a vid camera here would be nice for a side view. Fire up the AA and then set off a smoke bomb, the ones you see at Walmart and checkout lines..... You might be able to see the wash flow pattern. I think it would show a lot of whats happening and be a great help in yours and others designs.
A cheap wind tunnel!

Just a thought.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

I just saw the note about clearance price AA and Storm lanchers at Target. Has anyone else seen them Am I way to late to get in on that deal?

I was in target about a week ago to get diapers, but resisted the urge to even walk back to the toys and maybe come home with another AA. At half price, I would have bought them all. Too bad.

There was some talk about building cheap wind tunnels but it's
buried about 50 pages back. There's a link that shows how to
build one from a heating duct, egg cartons and a small fan.
I don't think it's extreme at all. In fact, I'm still on the look out
for someone tossing out an air duct.

Neuro, go talk to a local hvac guy. I'm willing to bet they will hook you up. The sheet metal is cheap and if the guy is intrigued, or has some remnants he may just give them to you. That's a cousin of what I do, and most of the guys I've run into are interested in other applications for their product. It gives them a good story to tell to their freinds and peers. BTW, I'm a custom fabricator for front of house bar and restaurant products. Here's our site if you're curious [link=http://www.dineart.com]dineart.com[/link]. I did not build everything on the site. I built the prototypes of most of whats there, and many smaller runs of whats there.

OK, I promised pic's of the slow stick so here are a couple. I pulled the wing back to show the motor, and stuck an ace on top to give scale. BTW, that ace may have just burnt an rx. It's dated, so I know it maidened 12/29. This does not please me. But the big bird should be a blast. Tim

Here are some pics of my Jet.

Fern, that is bigger than I thought and it looks great, the big question is how much ching?

I got a free 4 channel radio, which set this off. You can buy this plane with radio and gear in a starter set for around 150. That's ready to fly after construction. I chose to overpower the plane. Which of course costs more. And I'm buying a bunch of one time purchases. SS300 30-35, radio and gear 100+, Lipo and charger 125, bits and pieces 50. I guess I'm about 200 into the plane. some of that is non-recurring, I won't need to upgrade my charger, the special tools will pay for themselves. The biggest charge is to take the plane lipo. I think it is advertised with nicd. 600mah nicd. I'm flying a 7.4v,2s,1500mah battery 2.5x as powerful and 1/4 the weight. Tim

so i attempted some LG for my jet out of thing gauge steel wire strength is springy its good. I use some matchbox wheels which were good enough but i kept running into one problem, the wheels would run up one side of the wire to were it was uneven and would stop and drag. I bent it to prevent it but that made it worse a tab of electrical tape stopped it from moving till i tried it out in the rain... Anyways if it is nose heavy enough that at full throttle it goes straight and level but really fast, should i add tail weight to even it out or scrap it and try to make a lighter pair? BTW this rain sucks

Tim, that slow stick looks really sharp!
It dwarfs your AA[sm=stupid.gif]
Finding some remnants from the local heating and cooling dealer
is a good idea.
Keep us posted on how she flys.

googled, glue a small jewelry bead on the shaft to keep the wheel
from moving. I'd try to make the wheel set lighter and move it back
as close to the tail as you can.

i know what you mean googled this rain does suck. it has kept me grounded for like 2 days now. neuro is right move the LG back so it gives the plane more of an angle to lift off the ground. i have found something that works the best is the LG off a balsa wood wind up prop glider. it light enough and still sturdy. you can find them at a small hardware store like a True Value kind of place.

yeah, notice how Djstinger has his mounted just forward of cg.

I picked up this wheel set for a 1909 Demoiselle AA I'm putting
together. It's going to be an indoor ultra light so these wheels
should work pretty good. They're 1.5 inches dia. and weigh next
to nothing. The bigger the wheel the better the roll.

Neuro, those are the same design as the wheels on the SS.

GP, you should be able to find wheels at your LHS. The tail wheel on my ss is about 3/4".

I broke down and bought one of those tyco sets. Will report later Tim

Wow, active thread. OK, the Tyco planes have potential. A little bit of work to make the more rigid would help. However they have a severely short range. This is not mentioned on the outside of the box. The claim is 75'. The one I bought was fairly true to that. The problem is they take a lot of space to turn, and since they have no airfoils they need space to get powered up. When I got the single wing to fly it was graceful in the air, and then the controls dropped out. I haven't decided whether or not to return the planes. I could try to put a real antenna on the controller, or keep them for the battery and motors and install AA gear in the control module. Something to think about.

Tim

i got an acro jet from my target they had 1 sl batt for 7 bucks but i already have 2 first impression, fun needs some adjustments it flies much like an out of the box mono. once i bent the tail wing down a little and added some eletrical tape to protect the nose it flies great. I thought it would be similar to the jet but more like the bipe in that i can fly it in much smaller spaces. Overall its worth it for the experience of a new plane w/ new characteristics
Edit: this plane is becoming my favorite pretty fast. its got all the characteristics of the jet that i like and the turning radius of the bipe. I just dont get how people can hate this plane. Either i got a good one or people are forgetting that almost always you need to do some mods to get these planes to their full potential. Porpoising? dont add weight bend the taill wing down on each side evenly and carefully. Though mine DID NOT fly well out of the box it flies amazing now