I agree with bigtim that the two screws in the spar will not be a problem. Looking over some of my build photos, I noticed why you might want to beef up the ribs if your going to add aileron servo hatches. I had to move my flap servo hatches aft a bit because I modified the landing gear to retract in the scale position. This put the forward rail directly over a lightening hole in the ribs. To be on the safe side. I replaced part of the bit of die-cut wood that had been removed from those areas. This probably was unnecessary because I don't imagine that the aerodynamic forces are so great that the rib would break unless I belly landed with full flaps down and the flap hit a rock. That would be very unlikely because it's generally not a good idea to belly land with flaps in the first place.

I should have included that as well, in the area where the hatch landed at the wing rib, I added a strip of wood that allowed the hatch to sit on so that the hatch matched the curve of the ribs.
I did this after I sheeted the wing so I could cut the hole out right next to the rib,then glued in the doubler strip,it wasn't large just 3/8" wide and the length between the hatch mount rails,it was easy I just cut some scrap to length,held it in place,and traced the curve of the wing and cut it out,the crutch really helps the hatch conform to the very slight curve of the wing.

after installing the doubler strips, I cut the hatches out so they were a very tight fit, so little paint wouldn't seep into the seam,they havent been removed since the plane was painted.

if I need to open up the wing for some reason I am going to have to do some fine exacto work to free the flap and servo hatches,there locked in there tight.

since I am not flying these daysI spent most of my day in the shop working on my FW190 A8 but I did take time to do some detail work on the T-Bolt.

I also have some details to do on the paint scheme after looking at the photos of the real plane I needed to put another set of stars and bars on the bottom of the wing,they were not shown in the photos I had, but I did a search and there was some more photos showing the entire plane and of course the other logo only on the underside of the wing.
when I do this I will add the lettering to the sides of the fuse,since I will be spraying white.

I got another set of stencils from www.getstencils.com there back in buisness with new owner Vickie Deluyck she is quite nice and got my stencils out to me right away including my sticker sheet I had sent to Gary months ago.

so today I went ahead and did the yellow chromate on the interior of my tail wheel doors with some www.warbirdcolors.com paint to fuel proof the wood,I did notice some fuel splater towards the rear of the fuse not alot but the devil is in the details so I figured I should do it anyway.

after the final painting I will clear coat the fuse after a light sanding,hopefully by then we will have secured another field if not then I will drive down the peninsula and fly it at another club that some of our members belong to,the tail wheel seems to be working perfectly,I did some testing today and all is well with it.

Did you use CA hinges on the tailwheel doors? I am not doing anything more to mine, except the engine. Still haven't figured out which one I want to use yet.

no I used the little Dubro nylon ones, I did a long description of how I did the tail wheel doors etc... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#7433228 top of the page

Ok, well with the Saito price increase since yesterday I'm looking for an engine again for this plane. Has anyone actually flown it with a .91 four stroke?(was looking at the Saito 100, but not at the new price of $329). I'm debating between a Mag 1.20, Mag .91 or a Thunder Tiger .91. Anyone used any of these engines on this bird/birds this size? I'd be interested to know the power difference between the TT and the Mag .91....if anyone knows.

I just ordered the Saito 100 at $279, free shipping. That's $50 off just by getting it from somewhere else. I usually stick to the major places, but I went off the side a little. No local tax helped out also. Just a few steps away from finishing this..

To those with pneumatic retracts, What size servo is commonly used for the valve? Standard size? Micro?

Valves don't need much force to operate them, so a micro will have plenty torque and will save an ounce of weight but they are generally more expensive. I've used micro servos on air retracts before and that worked well. I'm using a standard servo for the valve on my P-47 and it is also working well. I guess it boils down to whether the extra expense of a micro is worth the weight savings to you.

I was thinking some of the Micro types would work fine seeing as how a lot of torque probably wasn't necessary. I wasn't "so much" concerned about saving an ounce of weight as I was thinking more options for installation with a much smaller servo. Smaller servo would fit in a smaller space than a standard one would. I already have several extra Hitec's (like cheap-o 322's and 325's) Ive bought as throttle servos in planes that never got started and were sold, still have the servo's.

Ok, I have my Saito 100, I picked up a MAS 13x8 3 blade, but it looks way too small. Anyone have any input on that? I think about trying a 15x6 3 blade, but maybe too much for the engine?

the 3blade I use with my OS91's is a 14/7 it works well with the engine size,I tried a 14/9 3bl and it bogged a bit, a little too much pitch I think.

the engine was fairly new when I tried it, so when I get a few more gal.of fuel through it I might see how well it works again.

the prop I am using for my OS120 is a 15/7 3bl but I will switch to a 15/6 2bl for the maiden, I am still dialing the engine it was newly rebuilt and is a bit on the rich running side,I would give the 14/7 3bl prop a try it is a good match.

good news looks like we may have found another field, our club is doing sound readings so we don't bother the neighbors but it looks promising.
there is also another club I am looking at near by but I would rather stick with the one I belong to now.

9.2 lbs, with the Saito 100. I just don't have the fuel lines installed in the tank. 2700 mah battery. I haven't balanced it either, so the weight could possible go up if I need to add some to make it balance. I am very happy with this figure.

Bigtim, I hope you guys find another field. Mine is just covered with snow and slush right now. Not quite enough snow or water for pontoons or ski's.

I forgot to add, when installing the replica radial, you only want that about 1/2" from the front lip of the cowl, mine is back further, I wouldn't have epoxied it in first if I thought I would have to do that much trimming on the baffle plate to fit it.

my dummy radial and baffle plate is jamed up to the most forward area on the cowl I could get it with the OS120 it takes up alot of space in the cowl,I even had to trim the baffle to allow the cowl to fit on the fuse properly.

on the OS 120 pumper there is a vent needed for the tank,I used some brass tubing epoxied to the cowl for the vent line.

Hard to believe that weather and work have kept me from doing any more on this since my last post. The weather is changing, I have rolled my runway and given it it's first cut this year. I have to repair the new section of runway, before the grass got established I had some torrential rains that washed out some pretty wide gullys. I had spent a month at a company school, I learned to fly a CX2 heli in my hotel room while I was there, so the school time wasn't a total waste. I still need to install the fuel tank plumbing and set the beginning CG on the Thunderbolt, along with breaking in the engine. I may go with a flex exhaust to get the exit where I want it, rather than have the stock exhaust just poking a hole in the bottom side.

CG is very close, may not have to add weight at all. Went with a Slimline Pitts, broke in the engine with 3 tanks of Morgan 10% so far, the idle is way down, nice. Iam going to build the Vanessa to get the CG, my old method is not good , too flimsy with this model. Looks very close, but I want it right before I try to maiden it.

Just maidened the P-47 tonight. Used the Vanessa to find the CG, made it according to the book. With the Saito 100 on it, and a 15x6 prop, you need to hold full up elevator while taxiing, and on rollout, until it gets some speed up. If you punch the throttle, the tail will still come up with full up elevator applied. This cuts grooves in my runway, not a great thing. It took a couple of clicks of down elevator and left aileron trim to keep it pretty much hands off level in flight. I believe it is somewhat nose heavy, as it doesn't slow down for days when you throttle back on final, and it flies well with more throw on the elevator than what is called for. I don't want to induce a stall by adding more up elevator, but by bringing the weight back just a little, like moving the battery back by it's length, that may do the trick. I never retracted the gear during flight, but I did drop the flaps, and it ballooned some, but nothing scarey.