Official F27 Stryker Part 8: Beginners to Custom Darkness
#951
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From: laguna hills,
CA
i am using a castle ice lite 100amp esc with a reaper 60 outrunner.when the throttle gets to 75% it makes a grinding noise.so basically i can fly but only using 3/4 throttle.does anybody no what this means.lately have had nothing but problems with speedos.it used to be that i had great confidence in castle just install it,program and fly.then lately i had a castle 80 that the second of its two capasitors fell off.this fryied the speedo and my bec.cant get a phone call back from them on questions about the ice lite 100.sure could use some help.
#952

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From: Lakeland,
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steven, do you have the Castle link? Try changing the timing. Also check to see if there is a new software update for the esc. And lastly, I've had to do this more then once, try one of the older software programs, sometimes dependent on the motor, the newest software version just won't jive and you have to drop back to an old one.
From what you are discribing it sounds like at the higher rpms the esc is loosing it's sync with the motor.
Surprised to hear you aren't getting a call back from Castle, thou winter is probably their busiest season as everyone is sending in or calling about stuff they hammered over the summer.
From what you are discribing it sounds like at the higher rpms the esc is loosing it's sync with the motor.
Surprised to hear you aren't getting a call back from Castle, thou winter is probably their busiest season as everyone is sending in or calling about stuff they hammered over the summer.
#953

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From: Lakeland,
FL
ORIGINAL: murdnunoc
Glacier Girl,
Sounds like you have an innovative build underway. Only time my planes have invisible carbon and servos are right out of the Parkzone bag and after I've slathered it with glass and paint. But somehow I think you're talking about something else.
Not trying to dig for secrets or info, but what do you mean by ''double triple''? 1:1 thrust is always good.
So is frugal!
Glacier Girl,
Sounds like you have an innovative build underway. Only time my planes have invisible carbon and servos are right out of the Parkzone bag and after I've slathered it with glass and paint. But somehow I think you're talking about something else.
Not trying to dig for secrets or info, but what do you mean by ''double triple''? 1:1 thrust is always good.
So is frugal!
And no, glass can't hide what isn't there to be seen. Remember I said I'm working from the inside out.[sm=confused.gif]
And frugal is just me being me, always gotta try and do it different. Watts is watts, how you get there is up to you.

Dimples well you'll just have to do some surfing to find out about that. But let's just say I stole the concept and have already proven it to work. Nearly killed myself trying part of it, and really pissed off the wifey.[X(] You've heard of using smoke and mirrors, well smoke and high flow air don't do well when you leave the door to the house from the shop open. WHOOOPS.
NACA? well you gotta use every trick out there to go fast and cut down drag, and still get some airflow.
Will let you in on this thou. Originally I was going to move the motor, bury it in the nose and use a driveshaft to spin the prop in the tail. My thought there was to remove the drag of the motor hanging out in the breeze. But then that wouldn't be a Stryker would it? So the motor will be in the rear and that's all I'm saying.

Only real step away from the spirit of the Stryker I'm going with is the launch method. I'm not about to take a chance with a hand launch with a CF prop spinning at the speed I'm using. Stitches would be a blessing if something went wrong, as amputation is more likely. No this one will be bungee launched just to keep all my digits in place, and so I can stand clear in case the prop lets go.
#954
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From: Somewhere,
NY
ORIGINAL: steven4472
i am using a castle ice lite 100amp esc with a reaper 60 outrunner.when the throttle gets to 75% it makes a grinding noise.so basically i can fly but only using 3/4 throttle.does anybody no what this means.lately have had nothing but problems with speedos.it used to be that i had great confidence in castle just install it,program and fly.then lately i had a castle 80 that the second of its two capasitors fell off.this fryied the speedo and my bec.cant get a phone call back from them on questions about the ice lite 100.sure could use some help.
i am using a castle ice lite 100amp esc with a reaper 60 outrunner.when the throttle gets to 75% it makes a grinding noise.so basically i can fly but only using 3/4 throttle.does anybody no what this means.lately have had nothing but problems with speedos.it used to be that i had great confidence in castle just install it,program and fly.then lately i had a castle 80 that the second of its two capasitors fell off.this fryied the speedo and my bec.cant get a phone call back from them on questions about the ice lite 100.sure could use some help.
1. Set switching frequency to something other than "outrunner". I think 8kHZ is between "outrunner" and 12kHZ (default). Ususally with version 3.24 (latest released version thats out) you can change the frequency and alleviate the grinding.
Give it a shot and let us know. We dont know more that Castle, but since some of us have been keeping an eye on their threads, it might help.
#955
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From: Somewhere,
NY
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
And frugal is just me being me, always gotta try and do it different. Watts is watts, how you get there is up to you.
And frugal is just me being me, always gotta try and do it different. Watts is watts, how you get there is up to you.

We allways look forward to new ideas and theories on our Strykers !!!!
Lets see how fast you can go !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#956
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From: Charlotte,
NC
Glacier Girl ,
Wow you gave away a lot in your last post….a whole lot.
I know the Dimple thing…I saw an episode of Mythbusters and the result was o.k. if I recall correctly.
One of two things stumping me is the Ceramic bearings.
Because of that comment I want to say that: I hope you are not going to run excessively small prop….But you know what you are doing so I’m not worried.
***If you recall, I figured out your last build puzzle a couple years back….I will let others have fun with trying to solve this one or a some parts of it anyway.
Your old friend,
Gryphon
Wow you gave away a lot in your last post….a whole lot.
I know the Dimple thing…I saw an episode of Mythbusters and the result was o.k. if I recall correctly.
One of two things stumping me is the Ceramic bearings.
Because of that comment I want to say that: I hope you are not going to run excessively small prop….But you know what you are doing so I’m not worried.
***If you recall, I figured out your last build puzzle a couple years back….I will let others have fun with trying to solve this one or a some parts of it anyway.
Your old friend,
Gryphon
#957
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From: Charlotte,
NC
MEGA 16/40/X motors.
Hi all,
These MEGA 16/40/X which are the world’s most powerful 28mm motors are going to be built in all the same turns as MEGA 16/35/X.
They will probably be pushed to 3000W in a Stryker.
16/40/1
16/40/1.5 R
16/40/1.5 S
16/40/2
I will post more info on these motors soon.
*** NOTE: Absolutely not a single person in USA can answer any of your questions regarding these motors as of today…Except me and Moparmyway.
Please allow a bit of time before I post on this further.
I have (2) of them and testing is nearly complete….just need to organize the data.
***Note: MEGA Motor USA who is the Distributor for MEGA motors in USA is going out of business. I’m working out the details of where people are going to order these.
It looks like they will be ordered through New Creations RC in Texas (He has been one of the mian MEGA dealers for YEARS)
For now not even New Creations or the USA Distributor knows any motor specs or even price or time line.
The MEGA USA Distributor is not going to place any new orders...just clearing his stock with some discount. www.megamotorusa.com (Closing down)
FYI: MEGA Motors are made in Europe and they are not going anywhere and will keep producing the best motors.
On all aspects of this wait for my post and save yourself some time and effort by NOT contacting any dealer or even the distributor. If you don’t believe me, then go right ahead and TRY!!!!!
*** I assure you that orders can be placed by next week if not before.
EDIT: also read post # 958 below. The motors have not proven themselves yet because our tests have not concluded or the data fully analyzed.
__________________________________________________
Furthermore,
16/25/2.5R roughly 2200KV {I’ll have personal test data in a month}
and
16/25/2.5S roughly 1850KV will also be offered by MEGA.
Gryphon
Hi all,
These MEGA 16/40/X which are the world’s most powerful 28mm motors are going to be built in all the same turns as MEGA 16/35/X.
They will probably be pushed to 3000W in a Stryker.
16/40/1
16/40/1.5 R
16/40/1.5 S
16/40/2
I will post more info on these motors soon.
*** NOTE: Absolutely not a single person in USA can answer any of your questions regarding these motors as of today…Except me and Moparmyway.
Please allow a bit of time before I post on this further.
I have (2) of them and testing is nearly complete….just need to organize the data.
***Note: MEGA Motor USA who is the Distributor for MEGA motors in USA is going out of business. I’m working out the details of where people are going to order these.
It looks like they will be ordered through New Creations RC in Texas (He has been one of the mian MEGA dealers for YEARS)
For now not even New Creations or the USA Distributor knows any motor specs or even price or time line.
The MEGA USA Distributor is not going to place any new orders...just clearing his stock with some discount. www.megamotorusa.com (Closing down)
FYI: MEGA Motors are made in Europe and they are not going anywhere and will keep producing the best motors.
On all aspects of this wait for my post and save yourself some time and effort by NOT contacting any dealer or even the distributor. If you don’t believe me, then go right ahead and TRY!!!!!
*** I assure you that orders can be placed by next week if not before.
EDIT: also read post # 958 below. The motors have not proven themselves yet because our tests have not concluded or the data fully analyzed.
__________________________________________________
Furthermore,
16/25/2.5R roughly 2200KV {I’ll have personal test data in a month}
and
16/25/2.5S roughly 1850KV will also be offered by MEGA.
Gryphon
#958
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From: Charlotte,
NC
customrcparts ,
Hi Gary. My friends and I are looking forward to release of your new and awesome F-27 Stryker motor mounts.
I know we have talked about the multiple advantages of your mount, but now with these new MEGA 16/40/X motors I see your mount as mandatory/required mounts.
We look forward to your future updates when you have any...such as when and where to get them.
Gryphon
Hi Gary. My friends and I are looking forward to release of your new and awesome F-27 Stryker motor mounts.
I know we have talked about the multiple advantages of your mount, but now with these new MEGA 16/40/X motors I see your mount as mandatory/required mounts.
We look forward to your future updates when you have any...such as when and where to get them.
Gryphon
#959
Gryphon,
The mounts are being shipped to me today. So, Iexpect that I will be ready to ship them by the middle or end of next week.
The mounts are being shipped to me today. So, Iexpect that I will be ready to ship them by the middle or end of next week.
#960
I currently am running a Stryker with:
Mega 16-35-1.5RC 2700k/v
CC125 ESC
4S 5000mah 45C TP
I have also built and have flown a Styrker for my brother:
Mega 16-35-2C
CC125 ESC
5S 5000mah 30C
Both have been tested on Eagle Tree data logger for k/v tests and prop tests.
I am going to get at least 2 of the metal 28mm motor mounts from Gary.
I would like to run a Mega 16-40-XX....
Mega 16-35-1.5RC 2700k/v
CC125 ESC
4S 5000mah 45C TP
I have also built and have flown a Styrker for my brother:
Mega 16-35-2C
CC125 ESC
5S 5000mah 30C
Both have been tested on Eagle Tree data logger for k/v tests and prop tests.
I am going to get at least 2 of the metal 28mm motor mounts from Gary.
I would like to run a Mega 16-40-XX....
#961
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From: Charlotte,
NC
customrcparts,
Gary that is great news about the mounts. Bunch of people want them.....for example see the posts above this one.
My brother might be game too, and my best friend is very interested.
Hopefully in a blink you will sell the first batch.
_____________________________________
Stryker Flyer,
Welcome to the Dark Side, MUhahahahahahaha.
Each of your setups below can make 1900-2000+++W in a Stryker....so you must have some big bbbbaaaallllllssss.
I'm fairly certain you have the 150A version of the logger especially due to the 16/35/1.5RC
As you can see both of my motors above are the COMBAT 5mm version too.....look closely and you will see that the number of turns (at end) is hand written.....fresh off of the press....LOL
My 1.5S should have said 1.5SC
Correction, in a Normal stock Stryker they will probably be propped for 2500++W with large 7" Sport props, but up to 3000W for low drag Stryker airframes that can run APC Pylon props.
They should make great Funjet motors too with not much heat generated at only 2500W (3000W possible for short duration).
Later,
Gryphon
Gary that is great news about the mounts. Bunch of people want them.....for example see the posts above this one.
My brother might be game too, and my best friend is very interested.
Hopefully in a blink you will sell the first batch.
_____________________________________
Stryker Flyer,
Welcome to the Dark Side, MUhahahahahahaha.
Each of your setups below can make 1900-2000+++W in a Stryker....so you must have some big bbbbaaaallllllssss.
I'm fairly certain you have the 150A version of the logger especially due to the 16/35/1.5RC
As you can see both of my motors above are the COMBAT 5mm version too.....look closely and you will see that the number of turns (at end) is hand written.....fresh off of the press....LOL
My 1.5S should have said 1.5SC
Correction, in a Normal stock Stryker they will probably be propped for 2500++W with large 7" Sport props, but up to 3000W for low drag Stryker airframes that can run APC Pylon props.
They should make great Funjet motors too with not much heat generated at only 2500W (3000W possible for short duration).
Later,
Gryphon
#962
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From: Charlotte,
NC
Hi all,
I've been getting a lot of inquiry regarding 16/40/X.
You should give me/us more time till we finish the testing and cross checking each other. Yes the motor did get pushed to 3000W range, but not all the data has been analyzed and checked against 16/35/X data.
16/35/X performed very well........various new data from bigger motor will be compared against those in the coming days.
Order of testing:
Arrange various props in order of increasing load
Record test using 150A Eagle tree data logger set at 1/10 second (connected to RPM sensor).
Pluck numbers out of the logger's down loaded file in a consistent and fair and repeatable method and enter into Excel sheet.
Chart/graph the data to see if any number (data points) falls far from best fit line (in order to ensure good data)
Then repeat using different number of cells and different props.
Analyze the data and compare against other similar/powerful motor with collected data by same methods....in this case 16/35/X.
Bottom line: We need to finish testing and pending favorable outcome we can then, and only then, recommend it when more power than 16/35/X is desired.
Gryphon
I've been getting a lot of inquiry regarding 16/40/X.
You should give me/us more time till we finish the testing and cross checking each other. Yes the motor did get pushed to 3000W range, but not all the data has been analyzed and checked against 16/35/X data.
16/35/X performed very well........various new data from bigger motor will be compared against those in the coming days.
Order of testing:
Arrange various props in order of increasing load
Record test using 150A Eagle tree data logger set at 1/10 second (connected to RPM sensor).
Pluck numbers out of the logger's down loaded file in a consistent and fair and repeatable method and enter into Excel sheet.
Chart/graph the data to see if any number (data points) falls far from best fit line (in order to ensure good data)
Then repeat using different number of cells and different props.
Analyze the data and compare against other similar/powerful motor with collected data by same methods....in this case 16/35/X.
Bottom line: We need to finish testing and pending favorable outcome we can then, and only then, recommend it when more power than 16/35/X is desired.
Gryphon
#964
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From: Charlotte,
NC
bigdog5332,
People who know those motors well (not me) would need to know which one of the six series you have.
1) 2000KV or 2700KV ?
2) Also comment on your heat sink size and type if any
3) Your flying style as far as throttle control or flying full throttle.
4) It would be best to comment on your prop size because you might get a slightly different answer for 6X4 vs. 5.5X5.5 due to varying amount of Unloading in air.
5) If you are running this in a Funjet vs a Stryker (due to different amount of cooling air to motor) make sure to comment on that too...makes big difference.
The more you comment the better your answer can be. Try to answer all 5 questions above for best results.
Gryphon
People who know those motors well (not me) would need to know which one of the six series you have.
1) 2000KV or 2700KV ?
2) Also comment on your heat sink size and type if any
3) Your flying style as far as throttle control or flying full throttle.
4) It would be best to comment on your prop size because you might get a slightly different answer for 6X4 vs. 5.5X5.5 due to varying amount of Unloading in air.
5) If you are running this in a Funjet vs a Stryker (due to different amount of cooling air to motor) make sure to comment on that too...makes big difference.
The more you comment the better your answer can be. Try to answer all 5 questions above for best results.
Gryphon
#965
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From: morrison, CO
hey it is the 2700kv and i am not running a heat sink. i normally fly like 3/4 and then full every now and then for low fly bys and it is in a funjet and i made the opening vents a little bigger...and sorry i know this is a stryker forum but i knew that many people run this motor and i figured out why it was such a difference from the 6x4 and 6x5.5...it is because i changed the timing and with about 20 second of wot with the 5.25x6.25,it was just a little warm and that was pulling 52 amps
thanks
thanks
#966
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From: Somewhere,
NY
big dog,
You could have that motor survive IF you do the following:
1. Put a heatsink on it
2. Oil the bearings. Use Marvel Mystery Oil if you can, it will NOT harm the foam on a Stryker or a FunJet
3. UNDER 60 amps continuous with a heatsink will be just fine, especially if you use some real good heatsink paste, and with your additional cooling from making more/larger cooling holes.
I ran that motor on 3s5000 to 75 amps in 15 second bursts, you are propped less than I was, the 6x5.5 E should be MAX prop for your FJ though, any larger and you better get some marshmellows ready to join your newly toasted 2700. (A Stryker could run cooler, so you could run it harder in that application, as compared to the FJ you are questioning)
You could have that motor survive IF you do the following:
1. Put a heatsink on it
2. Oil the bearings. Use Marvel Mystery Oil if you can, it will NOT harm the foam on a Stryker or a FunJet
3. UNDER 60 amps continuous with a heatsink will be just fine, especially if you use some real good heatsink paste, and with your additional cooling from making more/larger cooling holes.
I ran that motor on 3s5000 to 75 amps in 15 second bursts, you are propped less than I was, the 6x5.5 E should be MAX prop for your FJ though, any larger and you better get some marshmellows ready to join your newly toasted 2700. (A Stryker could run cooler, so you could run it harder in that application, as compared to the FJ you are questioning)
#967
The EfliteSix Series2700 k/v is a good motor. I have had one for over a year now in a Stryker. I was running a 6 x 4, 7 X5, and then moved to a Graupner 5.5 x 4.3 Speed cam prop. Its a very durable motor, I do not have heat sink on this one. I wouldput heat sink on it thoughif I were you.I have ran it hard some hot to touch -WOT nearly 80% of flights. I have well over 200 flights on this motor. I put that prop onso it would cavitate, on purpose.That on aStryker combined with rudders and airbrakes makes an excellent Stryker for inverted hover on a 3S 2200 mah lipo.
I attached Eagle Tree readings of a Eflite 6 Series 3S2200mah 30C Outrage XP lipo, BP Industries 60amp ESC, and Graupner Speed cam 5.5 x 4.3 prop.
.....Iactually use the same BP Industries 60 amp ESC on my Mega 16-25-3, 6S 2200mah 35C Hyperion, with an APC6.5 x 6.5 Pylon prop... it runs cool no blitzing the ESc either.
I attached Eagle Tree readings of a Eflite 6 Series 3S2200mah 30C Outrage XP lipo, BP Industries 60amp ESC, and Graupner Speed cam 5.5 x 4.3 prop.
.....Iactually use the same BP Industries 60 amp ESC on my Mega 16-25-3, 6S 2200mah 35C Hyperion, with an APC6.5 x 6.5 Pylon prop... it runs cool no blitzing the ESc either.
#968
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From: morrison, CO
ok i might go back to the 6x4 and maybe back the timing back down some and fly it as it was...because it flew good..i just want it faster until i get my arc replaced and then i am going to put the six series into my 3rd stryker lol....the first one stripped a servo the second one ripped the left elevon off in a dive with the arc 28-47-2 with 3s and a 7x5 prop...also how much do those eagle tree systems cost. i would like to get one
#969
The 150 amp Eagle Tree Logger with 1 Motor temperature loop sensor, 2 micro temp sensors (1 for ESC & 1 for Lipo), and a brush less rpm sensor is $135 plus (tax and shipping). You can buy it from www.eagletreesystems.com
I use 10gauge Ultra Deans wet noodle wire on the adaptors:
*6 mm Neu bullet to EC3
*6mm Neu bullet to Ultra Deans
*6mm Neu bullet to EC5
*6mm Neu bullet to 6mm Neu bullet
The 6mm Neu bullet connectors are about $20 for 10 pairs. The Wet noodle wire is cheap and carried at most LHS.
Gryphon helped me with this range of adaptors, I usethem for all the planes I have from a Mini Mach Racer 13 ampto a StrykerMega 150 amp...
I use 10gauge Ultra Deans wet noodle wire on the adaptors:
*6 mm Neu bullet to EC3
*6mm Neu bullet to Ultra Deans
*6mm Neu bullet to EC5
*6mm Neu bullet to 6mm Neu bullet
The 6mm Neu bullet connectors are about $20 for 10 pairs. The Wet noodle wire is cheap and carried at most LHS.
Gryphon helped me with this range of adaptors, I usethem for all the planes I have from a Mini Mach Racer 13 ampto a StrykerMega 150 amp...
#970
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From: Somewhere,
NY
ORIGINAL: bigdog5332
1. ok i might go back to the 6x4 and maybe back the timing back down some and fly it as it was...because it flew good..i just want it faster until i get my arc replaced and then i am going to put the six series into my 3rd stryker lol....
2. the first one stripped a servo
3. the second one ripped the left elevon off in a dive with the arc 28-47-2 with 3s and a 7x5 prop
1. ok i might go back to the 6x4 and maybe back the timing back down some and fly it as it was...because it flew good..i just want it faster until i get my arc replaced and then i am going to put the six series into my 3rd stryker lol....
2. the first one stripped a servo
3. the second one ripped the left elevon off in a dive with the arc 28-47-2 with 3s and a 7x5 prop
2. I hate it when servos strip.........................were they stock ?
3. Elevons coming off with a 7x5 on the ARC 48x2............what was they cell count on that setup when they ripped off ? ?
#971
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From: morrison, CO
ya they were stock seervos and then i went to the hs82mg and i put gorilla tape on the elevon cuz the previous day it didnt have movement when i would go full throttle because it was flexing the elevon on 4s with the 6x4 on it haha and then i had it on 3s with the 7x5 and it was when i was comming out of a dive it ripped it off and i would say the stryker came straight down at about 100 and hit the ground at about 75 and it bent the motor shaft so thats why i need to replace it haha
#972

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From: Lakeland,
FL
Gryphon, yeah I plan on being very careful. Props arrived yesterday, those sunny beaches are like razor blades on both the leading and trail edges. They came wrapped in foam, then bagged, then wrapped in foam again. Somebody took their time on em, they balanced perfect no adjustment needed.
And the bearings yeah, I need em. Remember I'm using volts. I just hope the motor holds together. I plan on taking a real good look at it inside when I replace the bearings.
Good deal on the Megas. Keep us posted.
If Mega USA is going south, is the distributor you spoke of going to be a sole supplier here?
Mopar, yeah I figured instead of a Hemi, like you guys are running, I'm going with a 340 6pack. Lightweight flywheel so it will wind up quick.
And the bearings yeah, I need em. Remember I'm using volts. I just hope the motor holds together. I plan on taking a real good look at it inside when I replace the bearings.
Good deal on the Megas. Keep us posted.
If Mega USA is going south, is the distributor you spoke of going to be a sole supplier here?
Mopar, yeah I figured instead of a Hemi, like you guys are running, I'm going with a 340 6pack. Lightweight flywheel so it will wind up quick.
#973
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From: Charlotte,
NC
GG,
Lets see how things shape up in a week.
I realize you are going to run HV.
If you run HV on low KV or very low KV, then prop size will be fine.
But if you run HV on medium to high KV, the prop size might likely be too small pending drag of your airframe.
Since you are running ceramic bearings that is a hint of very high RPM....and very high RPM may mean too small a prop.....unless you are going to run a fist size cheaper inrunner motor, or a large outrunner.
If prop is too small, then you will have to dive in order to accelerate up to speed.
***You this stuff backwards and forwards and you teach this stuff……therefore I’m very excited to see what you create.
You have our best wishes Master.
__________________________________________________ ___
To new readers of Dark side Stryker threads:
Lord Glacier Girl is one of the original Stryker Lords and one of the MOST RESPECTED.
He ran one of the early Dark side threads and set the bar very high for future moderators to show patience and handle things in a professional manner.
He recommended MEGA 16/25/3 for my first brushless due to my specific comments on my wishes for my Stryker and parts on hand and future plans.
Understands very well about different people's varying desires as far as performance and cost.
Very carefully and tactfully helped me when I was a rookie.
Gryphon
Lets see how things shape up in a week.
I realize you are going to run HV.
If you run HV on low KV or very low KV, then prop size will be fine.
But if you run HV on medium to high KV, the prop size might likely be too small pending drag of your airframe.
Since you are running ceramic bearings that is a hint of very high RPM....and very high RPM may mean too small a prop.....unless you are going to run a fist size cheaper inrunner motor, or a large outrunner.
If prop is too small, then you will have to dive in order to accelerate up to speed.
***You this stuff backwards and forwards and you teach this stuff……therefore I’m very excited to see what you create.
You have our best wishes Master.
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To new readers of Dark side Stryker threads:
Lord Glacier Girl is one of the original Stryker Lords and one of the MOST RESPECTED.
He ran one of the early Dark side threads and set the bar very high for future moderators to show patience and handle things in a professional manner.
He recommended MEGA 16/25/3 for my first brushless due to my specific comments on my wishes for my Stryker and parts on hand and future plans.
Understands very well about different people's varying desires as far as performance and cost.
Very carefully and tactfully helped me when I was a rookie.
Gryphon
#974
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Somewhere,
NY
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
Mopar, yeah I figured instead of a Hemi, like you guys are running, I'm going with a 340 6pack. Lightweight flywheel so it will wind up quick.
Mopar, yeah I figured instead of a Hemi, like you guys are running, I'm going with a 340 6pack. Lightweight flywheel so it will wind up quick.
I too happen to have a "skunkworks" Stryker in the "WORKS" that keeps my HEMI's but also winds them so tight, your ears feel like splitting !!!!!
I just cant decide on paint yet.......................its holding me up [&:]
( LIKE WHO GUYS ???)
Who else is running over 165, over 170, ...................over 175 ????
Possibly even faster ?
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Gryphon,
Some "skunkworks" going on over your end as well, eh ????
That 83mm needs to be measured first.......................PM coming
#975
Stryker mount update:
Mounts are on the way! Once I receive them and run them through QA, they will be posted on a website that I’m sure will be easy for everyone to find. I expect that to be mid to late this week.
Here’s where I’ll get some more static I’m sure… The original price that I estimated wasn’t right. The parts cost a bit more than I was hoping. I apologize for posting an estimated price before. This is a high end mount. It’s intended for people running stock motors all the way to people running 5000+ watts. Iknow it won't be for everyone. Developing a mount that can stand up to this wasn’t cheap. And, if it makes anyone feel better, I didn’t amortize the NRE into the mounts. I ate all development costs.
Someone will probably post the new price soon. Again, I appologize for this.
Mounts are on the way! Once I receive them and run them through QA, they will be posted on a website that I’m sure will be easy for everyone to find. I expect that to be mid to late this week.
Here’s where I’ll get some more static I’m sure… The original price that I estimated wasn’t right. The parts cost a bit more than I was hoping. I apologize for posting an estimated price before. This is a high end mount. It’s intended for people running stock motors all the way to people running 5000+ watts. Iknow it won't be for everyone. Developing a mount that can stand up to this wasn’t cheap. And, if it makes anyone feel better, I didn’t amortize the NRE into the mounts. I ate all development costs.
Someone will probably post the new price soon. Again, I appologize for this.


