I am about to start covering my Bridi Killer Chaos 60. Palms are getting sweaty. While watching the Olympics on the tube I've been taking notes as to how to approach dressing up the naked lady. I came up with the idea of a "planning"thread.

What this thread isn't - this is NOTa covering thread 'cause that's going to be posted in my Killer Chaos 60 bulid thread.

This thread is more about planning than execution. Some of us (like me)don't have the experience to look at the plane and a pile of covering, turn on the music, cut-n-heat film &voila! - a finished plane.

What are the small "foundation"pieces that need to be applied before the big covering pieces are applied to make for a well sealed covering job that keeps the nitro fuel on the outside. How many pieces should be used to cover a section? Use a base-n-trim approach or use a panel approach (several film pieces assembled on the bench before applied to the plane)?

This particular plane is using Robart hinges with fairly deep clearance cutouts on the aileron, rudder & elevator leading edges.

pic 1/2 - a couple of views of the Chaos
pic 3/5 - covering scheme 1
pic 6/8 - covering scheme 2
pic 9/11 - covering scheme 3

Idid quite a few schemes trying to keep it kinda period. I chose scheme 3 because I wanted some new Ultracote scraps in the box. I'm using pearl purple, pearl red, pearl dark yellow, lime green and white. The Ultracote pearl coverings are opaque and appear to have a white adhesive layer rather than a clear adhesive layer. Ultracote puts its color in the top layer rather than in the adhesive like Monokote. Bottom line, the pearls are fairly heavy.

Ilook forward to your input on "the sequence" ...

Btw - don't hesitate to ask for detail pictures of the plane's structure as necessary.

Well, first off, which color scheme are you going to use???

Hey MinnFlyer - can't ya wait until I'm done with my post?

Here's a couple of detail pics ...

pic 1 - there's a bit of a finishing resin / microballoon fillet at the fin / fuse intersection
pic 2/3 - the control rod slots are wide enough to allow Hayes 2-56 clevis to pull through (hard CFrod)
pic 4/5 - bottom tank hatch detail
pic 6/8 - bottom servo hatch detail
pic 9 - stab &fin tip extension details
pic 10 - Robart hinge clearance
pic 11/12 - cowl detail - note the canopy. It has a raised balsa insert (black) that will provide for gluing point

more pics ...

pic 1 - front detail of tail
pic 2 - wing bottom structure - filler block, bolt plate
pic 3 - wing filler block sideview and landing gear block
pic 4 - wing tip detail
pic 5 - wing top
pic 6 - top center
pic 7 - center sheeting flush with rib

An alternative wing bottom approach that presents a continuous green fuse bottom across the wing.

Nice looking build.  And I prefer the last scheme with the green fuse.  I think it may help give you the a/c attitude in flight.  You know, a visual break between the left and right wing.

OK- Iblew it. After looking at my pictures of my covering scheme next to the plane it was real apparent that - well - Iwas pretty clueless. I have redone the side, top and bottom views with focus on communicating where the basic structures are. You know, things like elevators and how they relate to the stabilizer tip extensions and the covering scheme. Duh.

ok. Dumb question #1. Are the control surfaces already attached? Im thinking their not and pictures 1 & 2 two are just there to show the assembled air frame.

You are correct-o-mundo. The bones pics are from my pre-covering full assembly. I have tried hinging before covering BUT the resulting control surface coverings were not effectively stretched. Afraid to give the film a good pull with them hinged. I do better with the control surfaces separate. That way if I break them  I can replace 'em without anybody knowing .

Ok, if I were doing this color scheme, here's how I would do it.

First, put a 3/8" strip of white on the aft section of the seam where the stab and fin meet, and a blue 3/8" strip on the forward seam.

Then, cover the white bottom of the stab followed by the forward blue - then repeat on top.

Fin: Yellow, red, green, blue

Fuse: Green Bottom, Green Sides, Yellow, Red, Blue top

Wing: like stab and fin

You did a great job building that model, especially the detail in the pushrod exit holes! Good workmanship.

The scheme, I would take a different approach.

The fuselage is long and thin, (side view.) Because of this I wouldn't "cut" the fuselage outline with many horizontal/longitudnal decorative lines.

IMHO, this only makes the fuse look thinner.

I'll hold off on the rest for now.

Charles

Charles - Iappreciate the input. I have to admit that the solid fuse color feels better.

Now - on to your other comments.

Mike - got it, nice-n-simple ...

Couple of ?
Fin - do you cover the trailing edge of the post with a 1/2" strip first or do you wrap the side film around the post and overlap it with the other side? Same for the top piece that covers the top of the rudder?
Matching trim lines - when the covering scheme includes trim lines that cross a boundary like that between the fin and rudder, how do you approach it?

Ok - I'm caving on curves and going with "easy to cut" straight lines.

I'm also being a bit more cognizant of color where film overlaps at joints - rock-paper-scissors. Purple covers red, red covers green, green covers yellow and purple covers white.

No matter what colors or trim you use, it would probably be best if the "overlap" of colors were from the LE to the TE.

Please check out these schemes I've created. I've beed "copied" everyplace.

http://www.cfcgraphics.com/flyingcircus.html

IMHO, I would not have a different color on control surfaces.

Charles

Em - already have your site bookmarked. What do they say about imitation and compliment?

Charles, how do you approach visual differentiation of the bottom?

The fun thing about digital covering schemes - you can easily change your mind.

Your scheme is improving, it is getting better. Still has a way to go, so take your time.

Pay attention.

Don't fly so high or so far out. Learn to fly up and down the direction of the runway.

Avoid standing with others that speak out and talk to you while your flying. Especially if they are saying things like. "let me fly."

Sun glasses reduce light, choose them wisely.

Don't eat while flying.

Avoid combat with birds.

Choose colors that are visible.

Avoid overcast days.

The list could be endless?

Charles

If Icould only find a couple of white mice decals ...

I can see your thinking. Checks, if done right, can work. Combined with other elements of course.

Checks on the tail, 1/3 of the wing at both tips, angled out and increasing in size. Possibly yellow and black.

Knock that out, see how it looks?

Charles

Just trying a new approach for cobbling schemes together ...

I know Mike - If I'd only step up to Photoshop this stuff would cause less brain damage.

Close, but not what I had in mind.

I'll see if I can find a photo of this particular model.

Curved starburst, but with squares, increasing in size from small to larger.

Actually rectangles till they get near the end.

Charles

Hey Charles,

Iasked for your suggestions to differentiate the bottom from the top. In your reply post you talked about everything, everything except using a contrasting bottom covering scheme. I think that I just got your point (speed kills &I'm gonna live a long time) - don't differentiate top from bottom - develop flying skills not covering schemes. Your point is reinforced when I look at your graphic schemes that show only the top &side. Duh.

Here's my thoughts:

Side view with the fin &rudder: simple but striking in a color that easily constrasts against the sky with a bold fin / rudder.

Top view: a bold pattern that really brings out the wing tips and connects them to the fuse - again, readily visible against the sky.

Waste bandwidth - not Ultracote ...

Just taking a shot at side covering scheme against a nice blue sky with high clouds ...

I think that 1" squares are way too small - maybe 2 1/2" squares.

Take my comments with many grains of salt, I don't have the experience to back them up. I think in the checkers the blue and green are way too close in color, to really notice them, I also think that you won't have that much of a problem seeing the plane in that dirrection, more trying to notice it when it is far away from you and you just see the shape. I really like the design of the 5th drawing that you did (on the very first post) with the red and yellow sides, I personally like to have some type of side contrast color.

Just my untrained 2 cents

Jon