I have a 102" Century Jet,,, P-47 with Razor Back.
I am trying to find a sliding canopy and cockpit..... Preferably prepainted cock pit.
Thanks for any help,,,

Did you ask CJM what was available? That size is similar to the MeisterP-47. Maybe there's something for that plane that would fit yous.

They have stuff here. http://dbalsa.com/

Try www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com Better price than anyone else!

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

I used these on my Meister P-47 (102"). I couldn't see a way to use the ball links he sends with them. I used styrene (plastic) I beams and Ls (found at a local model rail road store) and slid them in the slotted brass. Then fashioned aluminum mounts for the canopy, which is glued to them with RC 56. Here is what it looks like.

The cockpit is from Devine and comes unpainted. The gun sight I hand made.

What a great solution! I have a set of the rails and I couldnt think of a good way to use the ball links either. This should work really well for my Stuka canopy when i get to that point.Thanks Ram! You should post this in the weathering thread for the guys who might not look elsewhere.

Paul S.

Meister actually suggest a similar solution, but having the rails already slotted is a nice option. I added the aluminum mount so I could give the canopy some added support in the back half that isn't glued to the slider. I seems to work well.

I posted this in my buid thread on the Thunderbolt, but I'll put it in the 'in service' thread also.

Glad to help. I debated how to go about this for some time. It's all down hill after the canopy.

Thank you for your business! I would like to offer the plastic I beams also. Can you tell me where you got them? I will then add them to my website.

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

Hello Barry. I'll get the part numbers and post them for you and others. I still have the bags somewhere. Most good model railroad hobby shops have them. They are with the 'structural' plastic stock shapes. I glued a small L beam inside the I beam as a guide to take up the slop in and out. With this in place, it runs true in rails and the canopy stays tight to the rails.

Your rails work great. I didn't even have to cut the length. For this 1/5 scale size, they were just the right length. If you want to use our plane on your site, you are welcome to.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Yes I would love to post your video or pictures on my website.

Thanks,

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

I used the same solution on my zero , but the rails that I had purchased were way over sized for the scale I was working with, instead I used the same plastic rails but in a U shape to form the rail, glued them directly to the fuse, and a H piece glued to the inside of the canopy, it slides pretty freely and it also allows me to remove it for servicing

I'll get you some pictures of the finished plane, when it is finished. The Flight video as well.

Here is that information on the plastic parts I used. They are made by a US company called Plastruct located in City of Industry, CA 91748. Their part numbers are as follows: Main part is called a Styrene Column 3/16" or 4.8mm, part# 90545, cat No. HFS-6. The spacer part I added to this with CA is called Styrene Angle 3/32" or 2.4mm, part# 90503, cat No. AFS-3. They were sold as packages, so I have enough plastic to make about 10 canopy systems now.

Nice solution.

I'll check into them and see what their wholesale price is to see if I can still offer them for the same cost to you guy's.

Thanks,

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

Sounds good. I can tell you I paid less than $10 total retail for both packages. The I beams are 24" with (5) in a package, and the L beams are 15" and have (8) in the package. That is enough material for maybe 20 sets / canopies.

One other thing that would make things easier, is to attach (this material glues wonderfully with thin CA) the I beam to a thin strip of styrene that is about 1/2" wide or so prior to installing it in the rail. They have all kinds of material for this as well. That makes gluing the canopy to the system much easier. Otherwise, one needs to be VERY careful not to get any glue on the rail, thus gluing the whole thing fast. I used a tooth pick to apply the CA to the beam and the aluminum, after first putting light oil on the rails, and it was tedious to say the least. I had one close call[]. With the attaching surface already on the I beam when installed, this would be an easy system to use. Very easy.

I would have done the latter, but I already had the rails installed before I realized that this could be done. By then, it would have pushed my canopy out of alignment with the windshield. So I had to glue the aluminum directly to the little I beams without getting any on the rails. Very tricky, as stated.

Ziroli P-47 functioning cockpit build:

post # 97 and #169-200.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80..._8/key_/tm.htm

Video:
http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/canopyoperating-AVI

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comp arf F4U functioning cockpit build:

starting at post 220 - and after:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80..._9/key_/tm.htm

video:
http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/F4Uco...ningcanopytest

Nice engineering. It's a way to go if you can tolerate the nuts on the outside of the canopy, and you have left enough room for the inside of the ball link between the canopy and the rail.

I found out, with sliding canopies, it is not wise to design and engineer as you go. Next time, mine will go much easier and faster.

This is my FW190 with air powered sliding canopy . The precision cylinder is under the rear canopy and driven by the piston attched to a drive rod that attaches to the rear canopy totally unseen in the rear portion .
The canopy itself it set to the fuse on simple small pushrods that are painted and virtually unseen