Canopy hatch (cont)

Functioning canopy (cont)

pic 1:
My buddy, Doug Miller, suggested putting a lip between the two parts of the moving canopy.
A good idea to keep wind from getting in there and it hides any gaps between the two parts when they are closed.
Since the surface is a compound curve, I cut a 1/16" thick by 2"X12" piece of ply for the lip.
The total width of the lip is only about 7/8" wide but it needs to be extra wide to conform to the compound curve.

pic 2:
Since the curve is compound, I had to, initially, remove some waste so it would lay flush with the canopy surface.

pic 3:
After attaching the 1/16" thick ply with #0 screws, I used thin piano wire to align the holes as I put the screws back in.
Since it would be easy to accidently put the screws into the wood in the incorrect spot, the wire keeps the original holes aligned with the screws.
It took several re-attaching all screws, marking the waste area, removing the ply and sanding it to conform to the canopy frame.
Remember, it's always easier to remove material than try to put it back on, so all the re-attaching, measuring and sanding is necessary.
I don't think a paper template would work well in this situation as it needs to be in the exact same location for each trim and the screws put into the ply accomplishes this.

pic 4:
After the lip aligned with both parts of the canopy, I sanded a slight angle on the edge that will slide under the front of the canopy and then applied the aluminum tape.
The tape was applied while keeping the ply at about the same curve as the canopy to keep wrinkles to a minimum.

pic 5:
In order to cut the clear plastic canopy, I had to remove the lip and front canopy frame.
I just used some curved tin snips to cut the plastic.

pic 6:
Parts re-assembled.

pic 7/8:
Closed position.

pic 9/10:
Open position.
I still have to make a device to attach to the back of the canopy and put a ball socket on it for the back guide.

pic 11:
The final shape of the canopy lip:
It is 9 3/4" long.

Canopy hatch (cont)

functional canopy (cont)

pic 1:
It got all the way up to 48 degrees today, so I went out to the shop and painted the drop tanks with the silver that I used on the Yellow Texan.

pic 2:
Here's the front main canopy guide with the inner guide.

pic 3:
The ball socket on the front of the sliding canopy.

pic 4:
Here's the support arm for the back of the canopy and the ball socket.
I used some sheet brass to make a bracket and attached it to the support arm with some #0 screws.
The support arm is connected to the side of the canopy using #0X1/4" screws.
The support arm is made of of 1/4" thick ply to make it sturdy and for the screws to securely hold the ends.

pic 5:
Here's the ball socket on the support arm in the back brass guide.

pic 6:
I left a small gap between the canopy and fuse so the aluminum on the fuse doesn't get scratched.

pic 7:
View of the back guide with the canopy all the way forward.

pic 8:
Suppport canopy profile is 6" wide.

All I need now are air cylinders.

Miscellaneous

After being stuffed with turkey and the 'kids' left, I did a few things (besides loosening the belt buckle!).

pic 1:
I installed the contact switch for the landing lights.
The green wires were just connected between the main landing lights on/off switch to the lights.
The opposite side of the servo arm moves the contact switch to open the connection when the landing lights are up.
This contact switch is nice because you can use the center post and one outside post if you want the switch to turn the lights on or use the two outside posts to turn the lights off (which is what I needed).
The space to the right will be the location for the canopy air valve and servo.

pic 2:
All's working on the landing lights.

pic 3:
Also, screwed in the 50 cal guns and put the drop tanks on.
Having those drop tank pylons on is going to make wing bags a little 'difficult'.

pic 4-6:
I double checked the nav lights.
Turned the flash off to get the nav lights to show but any camera movement gives some blurry pictures.

Canopy (cont)

air valve:

pic 1:
Here's the air valve and servo (hs-225) to operate the functioning canopy (before gluing).

pic 2/3:
Epoxied into place.
I used hex head servo screws to hold the 1/8" thick ply valve tray to the two spare servo mounts that I put on end to hold the valve tray so I can remove it for future maintenance.
Since I'm only moving the canopy with this multi-outlet valve, I connected both outlets on each end to each other versus capping one outlet off with a screw.
I used Aux 2 for the canopy (top right front toggle on the 2.4 X9303 transmitter).
The servo doesn't have to travel very far (about 3/8" ), and the toggle is a 'two position' toggle.
I set the top end servo travel to zero so only the first position would move the servo and I figured that if I accidentally moved the toggle to the second position, it then wouldn't move the servo (and put a load on the servo).
The first position didn't quite make the air valve move far enough so I had to change the top end from 0 to about 5.
This takes up all my channels and I still have to design/install the inner cooler doors on the side of the fuse,
so I'm figuring I can connect the inner cooler doors to the cowl flaps.
After the inner cooler doors are installed, there will be 16 servos in this plane.

pic 4:
I made real long air lines that will run to the canopy air cylinders so, when I remove the canopy hatch, I can lay the hatch on the ground versus the wing (and probably scratching the aluminum).

Inner cooler functioning doors.
I saw this on PJ Ash's P-47 so I'm putting them on mine.
This is a 'design as you go' plan so I'm 'winging' it.

pic 1:
I had an old TF GS Corsair cowl so I figured it make some good inner cooler doors.

pic 2:
The dry fit seems pretty good.

pic 3/4:
The cardboard template.

pic 5/6:
The 'final' ply tray.
I elongated one end to make sure I have enough room for the servo (can cut excess off, later).
I also had to make triangular cuts on each side to get the tray into the fuse and past the one former.
To make it light, I used 1/16" ply and will re-inforce where needed.
Looks like the two pull-pull cables for the tail wheel is, fortunately, low enough so they don't interfer with the servo!
The two rudder cables are high but they are wide enough to clear the servo.

pic 7:
The door width is 4" wide so I made a 3 1/2" radius arc and made an A'-B' line that is 4" long on a cardboard template.

pic 8:
Putting the compass at each end of the 4" door opening, I put two 3 1/2" arcs so they would intersect on the tray.
(pencil 'X' just left of center in picture).
This is the rotation point for the doors.

pic 9:
To make the door 'stick out' some as it does on the prototype in the open position, I shifted the rotation point about 5/16" from point C' (center of radius).
Closed position.

pic 10:
Open position (end of door 'sticks' out of door opening).

Inner cooling functioning doors.

pic 1:
Some 1" triangular balsa block and 1/16" thick re-inforcement ply for supporting the back of the tray.

pic 2/3:
Close/open dry run using just some #0 screws to hold the pivot points of the rotating doors.
The hex head servo screw is holding the back of the tray to those triangular blocks that were epoxied inside the fuse.

pic 4:
Right side.
The Corsair cowl is working out nice: I used about a 1/2" of the front of the cowl just where it starts to curve which helps the doors bend inwards at the front of the hole so the doors will less likely catch on the door edge.

pic 5:
Dry fitted a 1/4"X1" wide thick balsa in the fuse to hold the front of the tray.
Like all the other trays, this one will also be removable for servicing.
Still have lots to do: add support to the doors, plus an arcing hole in the door supports with screws to keep the wind from lifting them up from the tray, servo and connections, etc.

Inner cooling functioning doors.

pic 1/2:
Two control horns were screwed/epoxied to some balsa triangular block and then epoxied to the door supports.
Also, some 1/16" thick ply was cut and epoxied to the door to keep the door from flexing.

pic 3:
The tray was cut for the servo and some balsa blocks were epoxied to each end for the servo screws.
I used balsa for the servo blocks to save weight since this is behind the CG and moving doors is not a critical failure should they come loose. I'll CA the holes in the balsa to give them some extra strength.

Inner cooler functioning doors (cont)

pic 1/2:
The aluminum tape was applied to the inside parts as well as to the outside of the doors since part of the inside will show when the doors are open.
There really should be an inner wall showing when the doors open but I'm not sure I can install them without interfering with the door movement.

pic 3:
The rivets down the middle were aligned with the row of rivets on the fuse at that location.

pic 4:
Lock nuts used to hold the 6-32 pivot screws.

pic 5-9:
I had to move the servo mount from the left side to the right side in order to get the doors to open when the cowl flaps open.
I also put a 1/4" square piece of ply from next to the servo to the wider part of the tray to keep the servo from bending the tray (since the tray is only 1/16" thick ply).
Since I was moving two doors, I knew that I would need a lot of variables built into the moving mechanism to be able to adjust both control rods to two different doors thus:
The ball link on the left is connected to the inner most hole whereas the ball link on the right is connected to the third hole.
I used great planes screw-lock push rod connectors (GPMQ3871) on the servo arm.
The servo arm is an adjustable servo arm.
I cut some flat brass sheeting, put a screw-lock connector on the brass sheet and soldered it to the right push rod.
With five variables (2 control horns, 2 screw-lock connectors and an adjustable servo arm), I was able to get both doors to open at the time and same distance (after several adjustments).
I forgot that I also drilled three holes in the brass sheet for the left door this variable was not used.
I used all brass rod for the push rods since they won't be getting a lot of stress and brass is easier to solder and brass is also less likely to allow screws to vibrate loose that are in it.
(that's all probably as clear as mud!).


Here's a video of the functioning inner cooler doors (outside the fuse):


http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/innercoolerdoorstest-AVI

Inner cooler functioning doors (cont)

video of doors installed in plane:

http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/innercoolerdoors-AVI

Miscellaneous & Assembly

pic 1:
I almost forgot to put the antenna mast on the turtle deck.
The mast has a pre-installed 3mmX50 screw so I drilled/tapped the turtle deck, wrapped some aluminum tape around it and put some stretch thread between the mast and vertical fin using some thin brass wire that I bent into a loop and CA'ed into two small holes drilled into the mast and fin.

pic 2:
I also had to put some aluminum tape along the edge of the fire wall before mounting it on the fuse as the bare wood would be seen when the cowl flaps are open.

pic 3-11:
A few pictures of the 'completed' P-47 using the real nice dummy prop provided in the kit: landing/nav lights on.
Still waiting for the air cylinders to arrive for the canopy.
Also, have to paint all the insignias on plus nomenclature.
I'll get some better pictures of the P-47 Thursday night: we have our club meeting and the florescent lights give off a 'white' light.


A little lame, but here's a video of the prop spinning that I turned manually.
http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/P47du...nuallyspun-AVI

A damn masterpiece

Way to go Sam. Too awsome for words.

Mike

thanks, dudes.
It's been fun adding all the 'bells n whistles' to this plane.

well I stop by Sam the Master builder house and took a few shots.

Hey Doug,
'master builder': you sure do use that term loosely!

Hey Sam,

Really good looking Jug!!! Great work. Have you decided on a paint scheme? Nose art?
Can't wait to see the in flight photo's !!!
Keep-em flying Sam......

Haven't decided on paint scheme yet: only that it will be a simple one since I must cut design and paint it.
I also want it simple so most of the aluminum shows.
Too cold for painting now so it won't be until Spring.
I'll start next on the comp-arf F4U or the Yellow P-40 to give me something to do this winter.

What a Craftsman!

Yea yeah yeah,,,,looks great. Now quite playing with toys and get a Meister Scale!!! LOL Looks AWESOME MAN!!!

thanks, PJ.

=========================
Canopy functional system (cont)

pic 1:
The 4" air cylinders came in, today.
They are by SMC and I ordered them from Fastenal

http://www.fastenal.com

I put in my zip code and found one very close to me.
The SMC part that I ordered is NCJ2B10-400.
(the 10 is mm and 3/8" bore and the 400 is also mm and is 4" stroke.)
The air nipples weren't in the package and Fastenal ordered them and they will be in tomorrow.
I'll put that part in the web, tomorrow.
They are $18.50 each plus $8 shipping from California.
I got four since I'll need them for my comp-arf F4U.
The air cylinders needed nipples: part number is 1/8X10-32strmalecon (control number 0400044).
They were $1.77 each and connect like those used on jets where the air line is pushed into a hole and metal prongs along the inside grab the air line and to release the air line, you push on a rim that is around the air line.
If you can't find a Fastenal near you, you can call where I went and ask for Jeremy at 513-759-6650 and I'm sure he'll order them and then mail them to you.

The air cylinders have no mounting brackets so I used some thin brass sheeting and cut them 1 1/2" long, bent them around the cylinder, bent a tab on each end, drilled holes in each side and will use #0 screws to hold them to those 1/16" thick ply in the picture.
The air cylinders are a total of 7" long in the compressed stage.
I'll also be using Sullivans gold-n-rod #504 to connect the canopy to the air cylinders.
I was initially going to have the air cylinder push rod just go down the center of the main brass guide but that's not going to work.

pic 2:
I also was going to use a thin piece of wire to connect the canopy to the air cylinder but I thought of a better solution.
I'm using some 2-56 pull-pull couplers, drilled out a hole in the non threaded end and tapped a 0-80 thread so I can screw a small brass screw through the inner 5/32' square brass guide.

pic 3-5:
Here's the yellow push rod connected to the inner brass guide with the #0 brass screw.
I'm using the brass screw because I don't think I can get a bend wire into the hole on the inner brass guide.

pic 6:
Viewed from the bottom.

pic 7:
This is my present concept: bend the yellow rod (with the red outer tube holding it in place) and connect it to the air cylinder located on the bottom of the cockpit floor.

pic 8:
Since I'm having the yellow rod bend on each side, I'm going to have to cut 'alleys' on each side of my service tray to make room for the yellow rod.
Not exactly as I had planned (guessed!) but it should work...hopefully.
Tonight, I'm taking the P-47 to our club meeting so it'll give me some time to sleep on this concept.
Any ideas are welcomed.

A few pictures from my club's meeting.
Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures until a lot of the planes were gone.
The last group of pictures is of a Curtis Jenny built from just plans (12' WS).

Canopy functional system (cont)
After thinking about it, the original idea of running the gold-n-rod in the front and having to cut the service tray and former wasn't a good idea.
I've reversed the 'idea' so the gold-n-rod will now run along the back of the hatch.

pic 1:
I had a couple more problems with the air cylinder:
1) attaching the gold-n-rod to the air cylinder shaft and
2) I figured that the yellow rod (being very thin) would bend when the cylinder pushed on it so I needed to prevent that.
I was able to take some 5/32" ID brass tubing, tap the inside end and screw it onto the threaded end of the air cylinder shaft.
I then soldered a 2-56 coupler from a pull-pull kit into the 5/32" tubing and then I was able to screw the coupler into the yellow rod.
I then used some blue tubing from a sullivan's gold-n-rod (#506) which is the next larger size and push one end of the blue tubing onto the red tubing. The blue tubing keeps the yellow rod from bending and also allows the air cylinder shaft to go inside of it (which is critical).
(it's always nice to have a 'scrap' drawer of parts to give you ideas on resolving problems)

pic 2:
Since the red gold-n-rod in now in the back of the hatch, I had to cut off part of the back of the hatch.
I left about a 1/2" left which doesn't seem to bother the fuses structural integrity.

pic 3:
Here's the 5/32" square brass inner guide reversed so the yellow rod can be screwed to it.

pic 4:
I put a hole in the bottom side of the top hatch to run the gold-n-rod through it and put some of that blue tubing on each side to hold the red tubing in place (as the red tubing must be securely attached close to each end for the yellow tubing to move properly).

pic 5:
I crossed the gold-n-rod over to the bottom of the opposite side of the cockpit to reduce the radius of the gold-n-rod.

pic 6:
I have to make sure the red tube is bent enough to clear the part of the fuse that I cut out in pic 2.

pic 7:
With the air cylinder sticking off the front, bottom of the cockpit, it 'sandwiches' the front service tray so no cutting was needed at that location.

pic 8:
After the front of the hatch pins are inserted into the front, the red tubing clears the new cutout in the back so the hatch will seat properly.

pic 9:
The hatch is latched down.
I used a hand pump which moved the cylinder rod and all seems to work OK so 100 lbs of pressure should have no problems.
I'll probably have to put some air restrictors in the air lines to make the canopy move at a scale speed.
(now all I have to do is the other side and hope everything works with the canopy installed!).

Functional canopy system (cont)

pic 1:
The blue tubing is a very tight fit over the red tubing so I jammed a screw driver inside the short 'holding' pieces to stretch them.

pic 2:
Both sides are now installed.

pic 3:
I used a hand pump to test the system.
Closed.

pic 4:
Open.

pic 5/6:
To get the canopy to fully close, I had to move the bases that hold the air cylinders.
Initially, I had both air cylinders an equal distance back but, as you can see in the picture, they had to be at different positions (probably due to one red tubing being a little longer since they have to cross each other in the back (probably a few other variables are also involved).
I used a plastic wire tie to hold the two red tubes together where they cross each other.
I'm going to cut some more short blue tubing, slice it long wise and put it on the other side of the small square holding blocks to insure the red tubing does not move.
I'll use some scotch tape to hold all the blue tubing in place versus some CA as that will allow for any future maintenance.
Since the ball sockets on the canopy can only be put on at the far end of the guides, I have to un-screw the air cylinder bases so I can get those inner brass guides all the way back, put the canopy ball sockets in and then move the canopy forward and re-screw the air cylinder base back to the bottom of the cockpit floor (which I did with #2 wood screws).
Next, I'll get her mounted in the plane, pump up the air tanks and get a video of the whole operation.
Almost forgot: the air cylinders needed nipples: part number is 1/8X10-32strmalecon (control number 0400044).
They were $1.77 each and connect like those used on jets where the air line is pushed into a hole and metal prongs along the inside grab the air line and to release the air line, you push on a rim that is around the air line.

functional canopy

I was surprised that the canopy opens at a fairly scale speed without any in-line air restrictors: must be the type of air cylinders since they are for 'industrial' use.

video:

http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/canopyoperating-AVI