.45 gfsr
#1
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From: Oceanside, CA
I bought a .45 gfsr (red head) a long time ago, lost the manual, and am wondering if you knew the high and low needle settings to start with. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
#2
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RB,
I believe your engine is an older model with the older carburettor, with the crossed screwdriver idle needle access and a simple air-horn and a lock-nut held idle stop screw on the top.
If this is so, the starting position for the idle needle is 1.2mm (about 0.050" ) from the throttle arm nut.
The main needle should be opened to 2 full turns from the fully closed position, for starting. It will have to be leaned significantly to achieve best mixture.
If by chance you have the newer carburettor, with an elaborately dished air-horn, a nut-locked grub-screw on the back, a flat screwdriver idle needle access and no idle stop screw, the starting position for the idle needle is 2 mm (0.080" ) from the throttle arm nut.
Starting positions are exactly their namesake. The final settings will be significantly different.
If your engine is not broken-in yet, do it [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this way[/link] exactly.
I believe your engine is an older model with the older carburettor, with the crossed screwdriver idle needle access and a simple air-horn and a lock-nut held idle stop screw on the top.
If this is so, the starting position for the idle needle is 1.2mm (about 0.050" ) from the throttle arm nut.
The main needle should be opened to 2 full turns from the fully closed position, for starting. It will have to be leaned significantly to achieve best mixture.
If by chance you have the newer carburettor, with an elaborately dished air-horn, a nut-locked grub-screw on the back, a flat screwdriver idle needle access and no idle stop screw, the starting position for the idle needle is 2 mm (0.080" ) from the throttle arm nut.
Starting positions are exactly their namesake. The final settings will be significantly different.
If your engine is not broken-in yet, do it [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Tapered%2DBore_Engine_Break%2Din_%2D_Upgraded/m_1850473/tm.htm]this way[/link] exactly.
#3
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From: Oceanside, CA
Thanks a lot. I think the first carb you talked about is it (#3216?). That sounds about what I remember it to be, but I didn't want to mess it up. Again Thanks a lot.
#4
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RB,
The new carburettor also has the same part number (#3216) and the same choke size (7 mm), but is a completely redesigned unit.
If the plane that you intend to use this engine in is a fast sport model, intended to fly primarily at either full power, or idle, you will have a sufficiently good performance and transition.
If your model will need to use frequent part throttle, it could load up the engine, since the mid-range fuel settings will be too rich. So for 3-D and the like you may want to either upgrade, or replace this carburettor.
This photo shows the new style carburettor (#3219 8 mm) in an MVVS .49.
The new carburettor also has the same part number (#3216) and the same choke size (7 mm), but is a completely redesigned unit.
If the plane that you intend to use this engine in is a fast sport model, intended to fly primarily at either full power, or idle, you will have a sufficiently good performance and transition.
If your model will need to use frequent part throttle, it could load up the engine, since the mid-range fuel settings will be too rich. So for 3-D and the like you may want to either upgrade, or replace this carburettor.
This photo shows the new style carburettor (#3219 8 mm) in an MVVS .49.
#5
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From: Oceanside, CA
For the new carb, who is a good online retailer that has it? Also, I probably will be doing some mid throttle flying seeing how it is a great planes rv-4.



