have a couple of ? on mounting the servo on main wing .tere is the square piece of wood does the two tabs glue to wing or do they go up.and second ? is there is no instruction on the rod from servo to move wings.is the two threaded bolts stickingup some how mount to a rod then to servo.any info would be appreaticed. thanks

ok i think i got the above servo figured out.one problem i see from looking at the purple untimate pic a few post back but cant really see but i think i have a part missing.is there a cover on the bottom that covers esc.between firewalland landing gear on bottom area.mine is open and looking at pat pic mine does have that hole on firewall on each corner.

The plane on this thread IS NOT the same as the one you are building.

I've already responded on the other thread where you asked this question.

it is the purple ultimate be ,its electic ,are u sure its not this plane it looks identical except the front bottom

the link you gave me is for the nitro or gas modle,i ordered electric model from nitro, i cut out shaded area and theres two servos for the wings

also to connect the airlons and elevator they gave me a few paper/tnin plastic pieces. do i ca these on the ultra cote (just glue to covering on ouside) or am i suppose to slit cut and stick them inside the airlon then cut wing side and slide it in that way.these instruction are very grave.






0

Could you post a link to the plane you ordered?

I see nothing on their site that looks like what you have.

Thanks.

www.nitroplanes.com under basla arf down toward bottom purple bipe,got pic on another post under Nitroplanes Ultimate 40 ARF post pg 4

I think you have the designations confused.

You have what appears to be the Electric BiPE, which has nothing to do with the 40S Ultimate... hence the confusion.

This one:

[link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/pubrelulbiar.html]Purple_Brushless_New_version_Click_me[/link]

The 40S is a completely different airplane altogether.

On the newer Electric BiPE, there is no cover on the bottom of the cowl area.

The opening is designed to permit air to exit, improving motor and battery cooling.

No.

The trailing edges of the wings, rudders and elevator have slits cut into them.

The thin plastic pieces get slid into the slits and the control surface attached.

Once everything is in it's final position THIN CA is applied.

It seems that you may be new to all of this.

As such please read this manual. Though it is for a completely different plane, the tips are applicable as are the directions for installing the hinges.

[link=http://manuals.hobbico.com/gpm/gpma1546-manual.pdf]Manual[/link]

If possible obtain help from a more experienced builder.

I think I am getting ready to buy an Ultimate BiPE after pondering about this
for a while and now reading this thread. From your descriptions this plane
is a good option for a sport flyer and should be a good match for my
skill level. I noticed that the thread has been quiet for a few months so I
hope some of you Ultimate BiPE owners are still around and still flying
your Bipe's?

I have a question about a price difference on the Nitroplanes website between
the yellow Ultimate BiPE vs the blue or red one. Check out these links...

Yellow> [link]http://www.nitroplanes.com/yellow-ultimate-rc-airplanes.html[/link]

Red> [link]http://www.nitroplanes.com/arf-ultimate-remote-control-bi-plane.html[/link]

Blue> [link]http://www.nitroplanes.com/blulflulbiar.html[/link]blue

The yellow one is $47.00 while the red and blue are $69.95...Anyone know why?
Am I missing something?

Thanks

Joe

They look the same to me. I think yellow is going to be your favorite color.

It look like they forgot to change the price from Black Friday. Just ordered my favorite color yesterday and I chose $47...

Maybe they are just overstocked with yellow Ultimate as the other colors sell better.

Purple is sold out anyway, maybe we gonna have to start a new thread called "Yellow Brushless Electric Ultimate Bipe"[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Alain

Ok Thank You.....that is a 1/3 off! hm...

I just received my Yellow Electric Ultimate Bipe. Wow, what a beautiful little plane.

All I can say is great value for the money.

A great christmas gift from me to me with a lot of love...

I got mine last week, too...

Joe

Was yours missing the battery hatch like mine was? (ordered my yellow on black friday too) I notice a few sites are selling these planes and actually FEATURE "No battery hatch for 'added' cooling and airflow". Must have been a shortage???

Yes, I checked last night and I am missing the battery hatch too. Sounds like a bug they have
decided to call a feature[X(]
I guess I will need to use some light balsa and make one...

What motor are you using?

At worst it is very easy to make with some light ply.

Use two "layers" of ply, and make the inner one smaller.

You can then use magnets to hold it in place.

A bit of white covering, and you are done.

Hey Frank,

I was thinking of making one with ply and magnets myself, but I sent an email over to John on Saturday asking if he had these laying around and he said that he would ship one out. Hope he has one for you as well and that I didn't open a whole can of worms with this post. If my hangar is on fire later, I'll know. LOL If it helps, you're gonna need the magnets for the hatch no matter what so here is my source for those: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10

I'm re-using everything (below) from my heavier, 36" WS Coro Edge 540, SPAD. http://spadworld.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16005 Flew great, but was just a bit heavy to hover @ 33-35oz AUW. (about 26oz bare) Side by side, w/o electronics, the Ultimate is easily 10oz lighter. This was one of the few planes I've found in this weight range that would work for my existing setup. I would definitely keep to the 1000kv and higher range if you want to do some 3D. (Note: Don't rely on Electrifly's Motor Calculator for your motor selection too much or add 5-10oz for good measure when doing so.)

Great Planes Rimfire 35-30-950kv for my motor, Great Planes Silver Series 35A ESC, and a FlightPower LiPo 11.1V 2100mAh Evo Lite 3S on an APC 10x5 or 4.7E prop.

Anyone consider using TWO 11.1V 2S Lipos for extended flight times?

Oh, BTW... What is the trick to installing the horizontal stab and elevator? Do I have the jist of this?

I was thinking I have to 1. Slide the elevator into the fuse. 2. Rotate it 90* so it is oriented up and down. 3. Slide in the horizontal stab, rotate the elevator back down and then CA the hinges?

Any craft shop has the magnets in stock cheaply... We have a "Michaels craft store" chain, that my better half frequents, where I always go to pick up hobby items... It's amazing the things I find there... Balsa, pre-cut shaped wooden items suitable for guns, etc. cowl/canopy magnets, throw away brushes, etc.

That Rimfire is heavier than the standard motors for this plane, but that may help balance it...

I fly my BiPe with a 9x6 or 8x6 prop... but the 10x4.7 will clear fine.

Normally installing a 2100mAh battery into the plane tends to push the C.G. BACKWARD more than you want, as the battery has to sit aft of the firewall lengthwise along the fuse.

I use a few sets of 2800mAh 11v batteries, that were originally created for Helis. These come in a 3S2P configuration so they are actually two 1400mA packs heat shrunk together.

These fit upright right behind the firewall, which puts the weight where I need it for my Ultrafly motor.

There would be no way to get two 2100mAh packs into this plane.

I throw two of them into my SuperSportster EP to get 30 minute flight time, and that is a MUCH larger plane by comparison...

Check my gallary for images showing the 2100mAh 3S2P ( total 4200mAh ) setup on the SS EP.

Thanks...that is helpful...Joe

I had the same question. I don't see any other way to do it..