ATVAlliance

Very slight mod for a 3" wheel I would think. Seems that there was a little room to spare(not much) on the 2.75's I put on mine.

ChrisWNY

Really good call, ATV. I had some 3" foam Lite Wheels as spares and a little sanding within the openings of the wheel pants using a Dremel sanding bit was all that was required to fit them in there. I would not be surprised if 3 1/4" wheels could be fitted into those wheel pants, seems to be room to spare even with 3" wheels. Should be more than a marginal improvement over the 2 1/2" wheels I had in there previously.

Chrish81

Opjose, I have been reviewing many of your posts, and you are extremely knowledgeable on electric planes. I am building my second Extra 330L EP after an unfortunate mistake on my part, I really want to be sure on a few things prior to my next maiden flight. Id like to get some input from you on my aircraft.

 

For starters, here is my setup (I will include pics):

Monster Power 60 motor

14x7e APC prop (not sure if this is the correct prop)

Turnigy 80A ESC  ( My first plane I was stupid and used a 40A with a 60A motor... you would think a prior service F16 avionics tech would have known better...lol)

4S 5000mah Sky Lipo

Hitec 5485HB Dig  servos

Hitec Aurora 9 TX/RX

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I have a few questions, Opjose, I was looking at your photos of your extra, and your motor was installed with the 4 screws in a square shape, whereas mine was setup like a plus sign. I placed screws thru existing slots in firewall, whereas it looks like you drilled 4 new holes. Which setup is better for the plane?

In a prior post I saw you reference placing washers (I believe one post said 4 on bottom left and 3 on bottom right) is this correct or 4 on both? I think you mentioned yours had a slight right thrust and up thrust.. is slight right thrust needed?

I don't have a watt meter, so in your opinion, I currently have a 14x7E APC prop on a Monster 60 motor, will this prop work effectively with this power setup or should I get a different size?

Also, I noticed that your rudder servo, you ran the wires in a "crossed" fashion versus straight back to each side or "parallel" with each other, what is the advantage either way?

Tomorrow I will be rechecking CG to make sure things are where the should be, and setting up my Dual Rates and Expos, What settings would you recommend for a Low/High setting on both Dual rates and expo? I will not be doing hard core 3d for a while, basic sport flying, with minor hovering, and other basic moves.. nothing fancy as of yet.

Any and all information would be greatly appreciated, as I will wait for a response to fully setup and fly this plane. If all goes well Ill post a video of the maiden as well! Thanks again for your time and advise.

 *** Apparently, the insert image link is not working, so I will ad my pics to my profile. Thanks again.

Chrish81

Why wont this forum allow me to post pictures? I see the icons above, the photo one is right by the Youtube icon, however if I click on any of them, it does absolutely nothing... can anyone advise?

opjose

As long as the "T" nuts cannot move, there should be little difference.

I used the square config because my motor mount worked best this way.


As I write this I don't remember. If I recall correctly I believe the plane has a tendancy of pulling the nose DOWN as you throttle up...

That indicates it needs more UP thrust ( washers under the lower mount points ) to bring the engine thrust upwards a bit. It also needed a bit of right thrust.



A 14x7E is going to draw max power from that motor while still staying in spec... You may also want to try flying with a smaller prop size and lower pitch.

The plane lands a bit hot, and needs power for landings, so using a 7 pitch prop may be a bit problematic... giving you more forward speed than you desire.


Better clearance of the wires to the rudder. You can do it either way but the fuselage clearance dictates what I usually use.

I normally just go for all the travel I can get on my planes and adjust the TX after my first flight...

I would NOT recommend that with this plane. Just a tad too much elevator will cause the plane to snap, especially if it is just over that magical threshold.

I cannot tell you what that threshold is though... As ChrisNY found above ( I DID warn him ) going from one pack size to another makes a HUGE difference in how the plane lands... in his case he went from a 2650mAh 6S pack down to 2200mAh and found the latter cured his landing problems.

I'm currently flying mine with 3200mAh 4S packs but I find that this still makes the plane too snap happy... I may resort to 2650mAh 4S packs instead.


Remember to bring it in under power. DO NOT attempt to glide in like a trainer...

Instead imagine you are trying to fly it inches above the runway WITHOUT decending under power, and once you have it low, chop the throttle back to let it finish landing.

You want a rather shallow approach.

Assume that it WILL drop a wing at landing and you should be OK.

ATVAlliance

jose is correct on the down thrust. Its too much on this plane. I added a couple of washers to give some up in the mount. Otherwise, it would pull down hard on hard throttle.

I run mine of a NEO 32 and 5s 4000 pack. It flies fine this heavy, but really can be a snap happy beast if I turn it to tight. Im sure I could make it handle better with a smaller pack...its just I have 4 of these packs for my 500 heli and it flies it nicely. Just have to be careful, like I already said...in the turns.