woodymaxx

My Feedback: (4)

oh ok I didn't know you didn't even have them yet just let me know.

eka1

that's your problem, NiMh chemistry does not like to be run down to deep discharge like that, they are very different than Nicads. You may have damaged your packs. The NiMh will last a long time if you only run them down to 15%

eka1

Did you try several flights with the 370 venon motor and the stock PZ ESC that is in the PZ receiver? I'm wondering if the stock ESC will smoke with the exra load, they are pretty delicate. I smoked my first one with stock motor, but have modified by taking it out of black case and created bottom air scoop and rear exhuast holes to cool in in flight, no heat problems after that.

Leo L

HobbyDealsUSA is a middle man for Horizon Hobby, selling defective or blemished HH planes on e-bay on a commission basis. I have found him to be terrific to deal with. So far I bought four planes from him: an Aerobird Challenger that came exactly as advertised and is still flying regularly after more than one year; a J3Cub that had a glitching Rx/ESC which was not advertised - HobbydealsUSA sent a replacement unit free of charge without any complaints; a Decathlon that also had a glitching Rx/ESC which was not advertised - HobbyDealsUSA sent a replacement unit free of charge without any complaints (I fly both the Cub and Decathlon regularly); and most recently a defective Typhoon for spare parts. If you want to get a PZ or HZ plane for a good discount, bid on one on e-bay from HobbyDealsUSA.

I have the Venom motor in both the Cub and Decathlon, and both have the PZ high pitch prop. I regularly use at least two packs ina row, and sometimes as many as four, with no overheating of the RX/ESC.

eka1

Where do you buy the GWS 8060 props in a ten pack?, and what color are they?

fireflynj

My Feedback: (5)

I have seen GWS props in 3 colors, Orange, Gray and Black
saw them on Foamfly.com

lthibault

This airplane and his bigger brother Decathlon are extremely weak products, with underpowered motors that can barely make them fly. The technology used is proprietary so you don't have much flexibility.

You need POWER and AIRSPEED to fly...those tiny little beasts have no power so they will shake and wobble and crash whenever winds go higher than 3 mph...

They are quite expensive and fragile. Landing gears? A joke.

I would recommend anyone to look for products like E-Flight, they have a complete line or RC airplanes that can be assembled quickly.

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Ithibault,

I guess it all depends what you expect of any airplane. If you are looking for lots of power and speed, the J-3 Cub is definitely not your plane.... unless you modify it.

I learned to fly with the Cub almost two years ago. It is a tough little plane. I'm still flying it (second one since I finally put the original to rest) and it's usually the last one I fly when I go out. I use other planes for speed (Stryker and MUS), aerobatics (Ultimate FX Byp and Typhoon) and just relaxed flying (J-3 Cub and Cessna 182) -- I guess you can tell I'm addicted to this hobby!!

I fly the Cub with original stock motor and the new hi-pitch prop. It does fine unless winds go higher than 7 or 8 miles per hour, then it's not as much fun.

hornetnz

Think that was a bit harsh lthibault, the PZ cub isnt a bad plane at all for a beginner on a relatively calm day. (noone should learn how to fly on a windy day anways) Yeah, power lacks a bit, but its still got enough to fly it around at a comfotable speed. Cubs arent meant to fly at 50mph anyways, just a sunday driver float in the clouds plane. And if you think the PZ one is too expensive, then get the offbrand one at Harbor Freight for $80-100. Just saw it in the air last week, its actually a bit faster and a lot more agile than the PZ.

lthibault

I'm not a sales rep for any RC company but I've experienced the frustration and $$$ lost on twose products.

They are extremely fragile, the landing gear will never resist after a few flights and like I've mentioned, you are forced to use the electronics unless you buy servos and another radio.

My advice would be: buy a good radio and receptor kit (ideally spread spectrum technology), choose a good kit with available parts (Eflight, World Model), brushless motor and lipos. Yes the initial investment will be significant but very rewarding on the long term.

Just my 2 cents.

Best regards to all.

hornetnz

I agree, a real radio is the way to go for sure...but for those that are just testing the waters and trying to learn how to fly to see if they wanna get into the hobby...the parkzone stuff isnt bad for the money.

eka1

OK guys, I got the 370P fireball ready, installed stock pinion gear, made 13"x 1" ailerons using dubro micro torque rods, just about ready to go but any idea who makes a double armed servo arm to fit the stock Parkzone servo spline? I talked to Parkzone tech and they didn't know, they just sell the single arm servo arm. I would really hope someone could help me.

Thanks, eka1

gunracer

not sure where you'd get the 2 armed servo arm for the pz servo...might try using/modding one from another brand...your ailerons might too small....

eka1

To small, I read earlier that 10"x1" were to small, and that 13" x 1" were good, so I went 13" x 1 1/4" just for good measure. How do you think it will fly? not looking for extreme acrobatics here just better cross wind control etc.

it26b

EKA1, The 1"x13" ailerons are just about the perfect size for the Cub with the throws set to 5/16". Your 1.25" x 13" ailerons may be a bit much,so use even less throw with those. Obtain a "doubled armed" servo arm from any other make of micro servo and grind the hub flush, drill out center hole large enough to allow the screw head thru and glue to top of PZ single arm servo arm. Re-inforce with epoxied dental floss..... bingo!, you have your arm. Most LHS have spares lying around, just ask. When flying with ailerons, less is better (throw wise) so be smooth and don't slam stick to stops. Too much aileron and plane will yaw and pitch up. You will really appreciate them when landing.

it26b

eka1

Thanks for the info. I was aware of the servo splice I've done it before, I was just hoping for a direct fit double arm. The yaw and pitch up problem with too much aileron throw, could that be reduced be adding in substantial aileron diffential?

eka1

jbajor

After probably 40 hours of flight time on my cub, it was pretty well beat up after a mid-air collision with my son and his slo-v. I could not get it to fly right so I COMPLETELY rebuilt it with new parts salvaging only the servos. I was excited to get back in the air with my favorite plane and now it won't fly. I could not get it off with a ROG (too many ground loops) so tried hand launching... the plane banks hard right then rolls over and crashes! I have never seen this before. All control surfaces are neutral and everything is new and looks ok (or did...). Where should the CG be on this plane wrt to the leading edge of the wing? Any ideas as to what could be so drastically different?

Jordan

parkflier

Jordan,

After reading many posts in this thread, I've come to the conclusion that many of us have the same problem with the PZ J-3. I have made some good flights once I got the J-3 airborn and at flying speed but the hand launch is ever so critical. My own theory FWIW, is that when the plans is initially launched it is not at flying speed and without the proper lift, the airplane simply follows the direction of the prop shaft which is down and to the right!

Whenever I can avoid kissing the ground immediately after launch and the plane gets some flying speed and lift, it handles reasonably well. I've even tried removing some of the right thrust using washer shims behind the gearbox but have not had good weather to fly recently (too much wind).

One of the PZ J-3 videos somewhere on this forum shows a beautiful STRAIGHT climb out after hand launch. I can't say I've ever been able to achieve that! My successful flights usually start off with some wild gyrations just trying to keep the plane traveling in a reasonably straight line.

I'll keep plugging away and perhaps someday, I will always get it airborn.

parkflier Ken

jbajor

Thanks for the reply! I used to LOVE flying the cub as it would take off wonderfully straight with an ROG and quickly climb out to very high altitude requiring 1/2 throttle only to maintain... I could even get reasonable loops from it.... ah well, I'll try another grand repair and see what happens. It's just that it seemed to perform so different (poorly) that I was convinced I missed a weight or something in my rebuild...

Jordan

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

parkflier,

I have been flying the Cub now in stock form with the high pitch prop or a GWS8060 for almost two years. I can hand toss it or ROG without problems. I did put a tail wheel to help on ROG.

I've found that a good, strong toss is needed for a successful launch. When I do that, it just keeps on climbing straight. Once it starts to loose some height on toss, or starts to do circles on ROG, or does not keep on climbing by itself, it is a sign that the motor is weakening and will soon need replacement. From then on, I must hand toss all the time until it becomes risky to continue with the weak motor at which time I replace the stock motor.

I was using the venom motor for some time, but it kept chewing up the gears, so I went back to the stock motor. I have other planes that give me plenty of speed and aerobatic flying.

I fly every day (sometimes twice a day) unless it is raining or too windy and I fly the CUB about three times a week.

hray2

HOBBYDEALSUSA LOT OF PIPERCUB PARTS ON EBAY I won the last one and am very happy the results... check it out if you are looking for cub parts cheap...Denny
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hray2

HOBBYDEALSUSA LOT OF PIPERCUB PARTS ON EBAY...............
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tntbowman

Can I get some advise on replacing the ParkZone J3 tail assembly before I just go at it.

jbajor

I just replaced mine. two pins and a tab line up with the fuse on the horzontal stabilizer. I used a small bead of Gorilla Glue to hold it down and stabilize. The rudder assembly slides into two tabs on the top of the horizontal stabilizer assembly. I used a small bit of gorilla glue here too.

hray2

I have replaced a couple tail assemblies and found the most challenge removing the old one without damage to the fuse. I do that by using a knife to carefully cut the old glue from the joint and applying pressure till it breaks free. Then i clean off the old factory glue and check the fit of the new one. When satisfied with the fit i apply contact cement to both parts and let it dry a short time per glue instructions and press it in place making sure the horiz stab is square with the fuse. I might add, keep in mind when you choose the glue you might need to remove it again some day.