Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Maine. you dog you, how the heck are you? Long time. Still playing with rocks?



Ray, Me thinks the shipping problems have been corrected on this side of the pond.
Just mention my name now to the postal service on your end, I'll take care of Customs and the SS over here. [8D]

I can see it now. "Don't make me call GG, you know what happened the last time he had to get involved."

I want one too. Heck I'll just tell the boys at the airport to wait for it to show, and then they can deliver both birds to me. All it takes is a phone call.[8D]

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Lord Hunter,
I've wound 51 amps repeatedly out of one of the TP30 amp esc's on a test stand. No air flow and 10 second bursts on the motor. I still have it and it still works.

Ray will correct me if I'm wrong, but with everything powered up I believe the esc is holding the power to the motor, so when it's just sitting there, the esc is disappating the power it's holding waiting to release to the motor, then you make it work playing with the servos, = heat.

DepronJet

Brad

MIB's at Work
that will teach them to delay a parcel from a Fellow Elder and DARK SIDE INDUSTRIES MmuuHAHAHHHah[8D]

Yip your right about Holding current even when the motor is not turning,
but the TP ESCs use a marginal Bec chip on the Gen 2 version and they do need airflow to cool them,

Critter only waggle the sticks in flight ! and you wont feel the heat

check out the new HiModel ESC's they are almost bullet proof,
the 35 amp vesion can sustain 50 amps constant [X(]
thats because its a 50amp ESC with a 35 amp sticker on it
but with a 35 amp price tag !
i only stock and sell them now and as yet i have not had any back !!!

Ray

holyschmoley

I currently have a f27c I pretty much learned on - and have crashed multiple times. I fly it fine now, although it doesn't fly perfect. I've got a PNP sitting in my garage ready to switch to once I'm done with my current beat up stryker. All I really need to do is put the receiver from the current one into the new one, correct? Do I have to pull off the hatch and then re-glue it to do that?

Also, I've read it can be cheaper to build from scratch rather than a new pnp - especially if I want to use the current motor, servos, etc. I already have. Anybody have a list of parts needed and best place to get them? (including balsa elevons - do you have to make them yourself?)

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

If you don't have a local hobby shop that carries them - http://www.advantagehobby.com/ - has all the F27c parts plus free shipping. Look up parts by parkzone part numbers.

The balsa elevons are custom made using aileron stock. You'll also need hinges for these. I used the pinned dubro hinges along with a trailing edge.

Info here in my build thread.

somegeek

bleary

SomeGeek,
total help there for a newb.
Goodonyamate.
Nice work.
Bleary.

Maine_Flyer

GG you ole hounddog! LOL... I'm good, and yup still playing with stones(I like the margins) looks like quite a few of the old crew is still around.. I stop in once in a bluemoon just to make sure no ones gonna lectricute themselves (I worry a bit about the geekster)

Ray sure has some cool stuff going[sm=thumbs_up.gif] HI RAY!!

still have two fuses left and am going to plane one down to thinout the airfoil, clip the wings, glass it and power it with a 4s EDF.. she won't be a floater that's for certain and may have to dedicate a channel to deploy a chute or air dams to slow 'er down[sm=75_75.gif] looking for some high-speed touch and goes in the snow and wet grass and maybe some ROG on snow

Mach62

You are right that all you need to do is remove the back hatch and replace your receiver/antenna. BUT. . .

If you already have the Stryker C version then the cheapest way to do it is to get a bare fuse and gut the C to source your parts. I just did this and all I bought was a fuse and the stock elevons for a grand total of under 30 bucks. I made my own fins out of corex (the stuff they make those election signs from) - a donation from the local candidate I like least. Then you can paint your Styker anyway you like. Reuse all your hatches, servos, control rods. You can even use the carbon rods from your old one to help reinforce the trailing edge of the new fuse wings. This Stryker is about the cheapest plane you can build once you have a power system and radio. Building a new one is part of the fun . . . Horizon Hobby, under Stryker C has a complete list of replacement parts that you get easily get your LHS to order for you.

Maine_Flyer

Ray, concur about the himodel ESCs .. been using them for sometime now and they are pretty much bullet-proof.. definately under-rated and rock solid.. very solid BEC as well.. I use them in three of my pattern birds that run 4 servos and never had a hickup..


have a 40 coming as we speak that handles 2-6 cells! and a duct fan unit... can't wait to hear that bad boy sing on 4s current!!

may have to bungi launch it but who cares... shes gonna rip[>:]

rock on gents

DepronJet

Maine_Flyer

If you do all of that you get one of these (see Pic Below)

http://media.putfile.com/Venturie-Promo-vid

and as there was no flying today i had to cut and produce this,

Sticks.. you taught me well

Ray

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Tested some props tonight for current loads with my watt's up meter on my Komodo 278 7T...

APC 5x5E drew 19A
APC 6x5.5E drew 29A
APC 7x5E drew 37A

Have a tachometer on order to show up later this week. Gonna drag out my digital scale from my kitchen as well and get some thrust readings.

I could rewind my motor with 6 or even 5 turns to increase the speed on the 5x5E but not sure I wanna do that just yet... still need to get some speed readings on the 6x5.5. The 7x5 is a little hot for my setup with a 30A ESC.

Either way I am happy with the current reading on the 6x5.5 load since it's right near my power budget max with my current components - roughly 300 watts.

somegeek

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

I asked a question about what 2409-12T everyone is using for their Strykers, the ones that are handling the high amps and are giving good air speeds.
I have seen and read about the one Areo-nuts sells and about the Tower-Pro one and I've read about some people not getting the same results, I know that the one from Ray's site is different in size and shape, can I get some input on this post and some pictures of the motor everyone is using.
Thanks For Your Input

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

I was using the Aero-nuts 12T with a 30A ESC, 1700mAh 20C 11.1V lipo pack and an APCx7x5E prop in this video. This is a nice setup for the $. I decided to go a different route and wound my own motor from a kit to tailor it to my power budget.

somegeek

DepronJet

joe1

on the face of the specifications both motors look the same but they are completly different animals,

the http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo..._ESC_Combo.php has a higher effeciency and better torque/thrust using a 7x5 prop

the http://www.aero-nuts.com/product_inf...roducts_id=204 has a slightly higher Kv and gives better speed,

i prefer the first motor as i want speed and thrust

it all depends on the airframe you are putting it into for best effect

Ray

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Somegeek :-)
What mods did you do to that one and what was the RTFW, I have a couple more kits and I'm thinking about using the 2409-12T, but I want to get the one that everyone is getting good results from, I bought a BM2408-21 motor off of a guy who belongs to a near-by club and the ESC he got them off the internet some where and he said they were new, if it was new it was bad from the company it turned with a grinding clicking noise by hand and the other one's that everyone was using on their planes were turning a 9x4 prop, I started with a 8x4 and it pulled 19amps static and it and the 18 amp esc got real hot with in 5 seconds of run time.
I put it on a plane with a 7x4 and I flew it for about 2 minutes and it started making a winding noise and was slowing down, so I brought it in and the motor and ESC was hot and smelling, so I don't want to end up with the same on the 2409-12T

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

I flew that Aero-nuts combo deal I linked as is except I added copper heat sinks to the ESC which get quite warm so I imagine the ESC would be damn hot with the small sink it comes with. Trashing the 8x4GWS props and using APC E (another name is Speed 400) props made a big difference. Avoid Slow Fly props - they're not designed to wind up like the E series props and the E series props are more efficient across the board at higher RPMs.

Sounds like Depron has experience with that Aero-nuts motor as well as another combo which costs $10 more. These brushless motors will have a bit of 'cogging' when you turn the prop - that's just the magnets... but it should not 'grind' in any way. Sounds like that 21 might have had some issues.

Prop designs are going to vary quite a bit between vendors... an 8x4 GWS will differ greatly from an APC 8x4E. I have some pics of the 8x4 GWS vs some APC-E props in my build thread.

That Aero-nuts combo has free shipping too.

somegeek

critterhunter

Begun hacking out the body parts last night for my ugly aerial video platform. I've traded for all the parts so it isn't going to cost me a dime, except for a crystal for the RX. Had two BP21 motors laying around that needed re-winds. Traded them to a guy who re-winded them and gave me one back. Traded some Sub C 3300ma cells to another guy for a 25 amp brushless speed control. Traded some junk Stryker, Challenger, and Extreme boards to another guy who fixes them for a Hitec RX that is positive shift and thus compatible with my JR radio. Also was given an HS55 servo (maybe more than one) for some JR ST47 servos that came with my radio and are too big for my needs. Also gave a guy a 700ma nicad flight pack for an already wired up 3V regulator complete with a protection circuit to keep my plane battery and the pocket digital camcorder I'm going to run on it happy. This way I am able to ditch the two AA batteries in the camera and save that weight. The foam was already laying around in the garage. Nice to build a plane by getting rid of parts I don't need. I already have some 2000ma 3 cell 10C lipos packs laying around that should power the plane nicely.

This picture is just a quick throw together of the parts to get an idea of what it's going to look like. Everything still needs sanded as you can see by the botched wing. I used two 2" slabs of foam glued together to form a 4" thick fuse to really help protect the camera. Wing is a hot wired out clark-Y 36". Tail and rudder are Cell Foam 88. I was going to go with a single aileron and elevator but, after talking it over with a fellow flyer, decided on a rudder and elevator for control with no ailerons. I always wanted to try a rudder setup and he convinced me the plane would be much more stabile in the air for less jittery aerial video. When you turn left/right the plane won't tend to tip on it's side like ailerons do. I'm going to hitch the rudder servo up to the aileron port on my RX so I have rudder/elevator on the same stick. Don't trust my flying skills with a rudder control on the throttle stick.

In the picture the elevator is too small yet. I decided to go slightly bigger on those. The tail end of the fuse also is going to be cut off at an angle from the belly up to the tail for a better look and to streamline the plane a bit better. The BP21 motor is going on the end of the fuse near the top for a pusher setup. The prop will clear the ground good this way for added durability, probably running a 7x4 or 8x4 APC E on it. The camera compartment is going directly under the COG point so the plane will fly right with or without the camera installed. Camera is going to be inserted into a hole from under the fuse and secured in it's chamber via velcro loops. I mainly want straight down video but will also taper the bottom of the fuse to allow the camera to point somewhat forward with an unubstructed view if I want. Camera will sit a good couple of inches up inside the bottom of the fuse to protect it from landings.

Since I've also got a 2 watt 2.4ghz tx/rx for a wireless camera I plan to also make sure the compartment will hold that setup when I want to use it. I'm probably going to run two HS55 servos on the plane, perhaps two HS81s. I'm a little worried the plane might be too much for the HS55s. It's ugly and going to be real slow and a docile flyer but that's the way I want it for aerial video. Also have a 800mw 1.2ghz setup laying around that I've only used a few minutes on a Stryker before. Having so much aerial equipment sitting around that I've never even used it's time to stop making excuses and use it. I have at least four lost planes to look for for friends (And my Extreme) on a friend's property and this should work well to search the woods from above while the leafs are down. I also am building it because I want to do some fly overs on land that I hunt to discover new ponds, land bottleknecks for deer hunting, etc.

chippedprop

Pictures for all Stryker fans-- my lastest and greatest. Special features --dual ram air intakes on the wing roots. 4 exhaust holes on the bottom of plane.
Flight weight with a 1800 ma Polyquest lipo 22.5 oz

critterhunter

Two of my BP21s have been sitting around for about a year in bad need of a re-wind. I put them through all kinds of torture and finally they broke free of the planes they were on in a crash and shorted one or more of the three motor wires, cooking the windings. Anyway, I was going to school up on doing my first re-wind but a friend who is a high voltage engineer offered to re-wind them since it's right up his line of work and he has a selection of wire, etc. He found like has been stated that many of the windings in both motors was not 21 turns, but rather could vary from 18 to 23 or so. This was surprising since both of these motors had given such good performance for a long time until they went nuclear with the wire short. Just by virtue of doing a re-wind the same number of turns you can probably increase the performance and efficiency of the motor even more than it already had. He re-wound mine in series Delta using 18 gauge wire and a 21, 22, 23 turn setup. Going to have to do a little reading to figure out the math. He said it mainly should have just a little more speed and power with much greater efficiency and use the same general prop sizes...7x4, 8x4, 7x6. Can't wait until one of my 12T motors dies so I can re-wind it stock. If it's off on winds like the BP21 was the performance should increase a good bit, not that I'm not VERY happy with it's speed and power now.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi somegeek, when I asked what mods, I ment to the Stryker itself and it's flying weight, the one in that movie you linked me too.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Ah - gotcha - mods are all in this build thread. Built up a bare 27C fuselage. Biggest deviation from the stock stryker besides the power plant is the balsa TEs and elevons. Added some fiberglass to the leading edges which really just added weight but in this case was not a bad thing since I was learning to fly this as my first stryker. Also added the air scoop on the bottom to help cool the battery.

somegeek

critterhunter

OK, did some reading and still a bit lost. Having not talked to him yet to get more details and no access to Motorcalc, I was wondering if anybody wants to take a stab at what to expect from the re-wound BP21. So far he's told me it's been done in a series Delta using 18 gauge wire and that he wound it 21, then 22, then 23 turns. Interesting since I've never heard of changing the number of turns each wind. Don't have a wattmeter yet so I'd like to get some ballpark amp draw numbers on various prop sizes to prevent a problem. Only other thing he told me was the amp draw should be a little less but the motor will have slightly more speed and torque.

On the subject of amp draw, saw reference on rcgroups.com to making a homemade shunt that costs almost nothing to use in combination with a digital voltmeter that has 10 amp DC measurement ability. The shunt will allow you to read much higher amp draws when testing a motor. With a $8 multimeter and $2 worth of parts you'd save a bunch of money over buying a meter designed specificly for motor testing.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks, somegeek and DepronJet for the info !

critterhunter

Now that this thread has broke 100 messages perhaps it's time to start a new one as is the tradition. As is also the tradition it's probably time to nominate another elder to disperse knowledge to the newbies and others who are new to the Stryker and, more precisely, pushing it beyond the limits of stock. Being that I still do not feel worthy of my nomination to become an elder I will leave it to the true Elders....DepronJet, GG, etc...to name the next recruit into the elder status to help guide others. Who ever they choose can crank up the new thread and get things rolling. I do have a choice but will defer that to private conservation should Ray (Cadetman, DepronJet), or GG (Glacier Girl) wish to consult me. However, I will be more than happy to allow you to make that decision and would also have more confidence in your choice anyway.

fiver

Of all the ones I rewound they were always dead on with the correct number of turns. Not sure if they are hand wound or not but I suspect your 12t is wound correctly. If the windings were off that much the motor would miss thus having a loss in performance.