Maine_Flyer

parkzone servos stripping? ..[X(] say it aint so!.. LOL







long story.....

flyingace451

I've landed a 3D foamy safely when it completely lost aileron control due to the servo arm popping loose of the servo. Hardest thing I've done in the RC career...amazingly even with the tons of wingrock it still landed ok with no harm done.

Is it just me, or does 200mph sound almost illegal?[>:] Take a plane like THAT to a local club. "Pssh...it's just a stupid electric plane, those aren't fast" says the imaginary glow pilot. Boy would he be knocked off of his 'rocker with that one!

flyingace451

I just noticed my posts are at "747"...haha...the commercial jet...747...ha...ok I'll stop now.

Crap, now it's 748. Just my luck.

Buggygovroom

Im thinking on the idea.... I just seem to think it will be to heavy and require a lot of fabrication to balance and make everything fit. But it sure would be amazing... even if its the bare minimum required power setup to hit that speed and you only get a couple minutes of fly time I think it would be worth it just to see a reaction from onlookers and other fliers.

Mach62

200 mph for an electric sounds like a record. CartmanRC showed a video of a 27 ounce Microjet doing 175mph for a few seconds at over 1000 watts on youtube.com I imagine it might take a lot more power than that to move the bigger heavier Stryker.

Buggygovroom

I got mine to 182

Although there was a fierce tailwind.. it was still cool to see though

critterhunter

Well, Christmas came early for me today. Went a little crazy and did some online shopping at Aero-nuts.com for some motors and such. Where else can you buy a 2409-18T and 30amp ESC combo that includes deans ultras, bullet motor wire plugs and three props, another 2409-18T, a 2408-21 (BP21), a 2409-12T (12T) (Wanted backups of all these motors for various planes they are on.), 3 Tower Pro 90 servo gear sets, 5 spare motor shafts for the various motors, and a few other odds and ends for about $90? And, I think shipping is free since a combo deal includes free shipping. Not to mention I think I'm getting $5 off the order again, which should put it at like just over $80 total.

Went on to look for some 7x7 and 7x7.5 props for the 12T to try on the Stryker. Found Aero-nauts props on Hobby Lobby's site in the 7x7 range. They are nylon electric props. I wanted the carbon fiber ones but they are out of stock on those. These are like $7 or so a piece. While I was on there I ordered a Hitec 5 channel RX that has negative/positive shift auto selection and a crystal for it. Wanted a full range RX for my AP plane. It's only single coversion but the price was good at around $32 plus $8 for the crystal. Hoping the single conversion will be enough on this full range receiver to avoid any range problems when and if I try my 2 watt 2.4ghz video transmitter on it. Mainly I'll be doing AP with just an onboard pocket camcorder and no live ground feed, so if and when I do try the video TX I'll be sure to do some long distance ground range checks on the Hitec RX. The crystals for this thing are the same for the Hitec Feather RX I just traded for so I picked up another crystal for that thing.

All in all a lot of gear for less than $150 or so. Think I'll put my credit card away before it catches on fire...

Anxious to try the 7x7 prop on the 12T Stryker. Then again, anxious to fly it with the 8x6 I have on it now as I've only got about five flights on her so far. Hope the nylon 7x7 can handle the 12T.

18T is going on the AP platform. Thanks again Hagar for the heads up on that motor. Seems much more efficient than the 12T or BP21 at low speeds and should be able to pull my 30 to 40 ounce AP ship into the air with no problem. Looking forward to seeing just how long of flights I get on the 2200ma 3 cells. Any prop size suggestions for it? In the combo deal I'm getting the three props that automaticly come with it. I think they are 9x4.7 or something like that and give about 23 ounces of thrust. The only other safe prop size I see listed that produces more thrust is I think a 10x5 (?) producing 24+ ounces. Might have to try that one too.

Anybody have any experience with this Hitec Micro 05S RX I just bought? Hope it has really good range. Says "Full" but the single conversion worries me.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

That 7x7 Aeronaut prop sounds nice vs a 7x5. I've heard good things on other boards regarding those props.

critterhunter

That's the only place that popped up when I did a yahoo search for 7x7 electric props. Well, the APC site did pop up too but I needed an RX with the order. Couldn't find any 7x7.5 props in my limited search. The APC 7x7 is a Sport prop. Anybody know if these are electric and how good they are? Never used an Aeronauts prop so hope they are good. Would rather have bought an APC because I've always liked them.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Everyone :-)
I can not remember who it was that said they balance their Stryker just outside the hand holds on the flat, I need some advise on that, please speak up.
Thanks To Everyone

Maine_Flyer

gonna be testing graupner 6.5x6.5 on the BP21 when they come in.. I'm building two funjet full-contact planes that I want to be as cheap as possible.. for obvious reasons[>:]

check united hobbies for the price on the gear and you won't believe it...

9gram servos -- $4 (same torque as hs56)
bp21------------- $9
6chan. full range dual conversion rx w/ auto shift (corona) --$15
30amp ESC-- $19
2200 20C (tested personally) $32

airframe-- $65 (hobby people)
graupner 6.5x6.5 --$3.60(hobby-lobby)

they'll be in the air w/ 3s lipo for less than $150 and should be in the 60-70 mph range... just right for combat[>:]

anyone with a BP21 stryker ever try that 6.5x6.5 graupner? it should push the limits of that motor, but in a 17oz sleek airframe (funjet) it should be the balls for combat

Mach62

That was Buggygovroom. I believe he does it because he is carrying 6S in that rocket.

Maine_Flyer

Joe, that's "guggygovroom" he runs a heavy 6s setup... I run my strykers quite nose-heavy as well.. I like mine that way to help counter the lift you get a high speeds(over 100mph) .. sometimes just running your thrust-line high doesn't counter the wings lift at high speeds, so a bit nose-heavy really helps.. depending on the speeds.. a lot nose-heavy is even better...

a normal/stock stryker is best balanced at the proper CoG or slightly forward.... kind of a preference thing

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi MaineFlyer :-)
I have been having trouble with my stryker climbing real bad and I have 2 ounces of weight in the nose, but I have covered mine with duct tape so it made it heavy and I'm sure most of the weight is in the back, but it balances on the spots in the hand hold area and is nose heavy some what.
When I launch it I have to trim the elevator to set the ailerons level with the wing to keep it from diving into the ground and then once it builds up a little air speed it will start climbing like crazy the more speed the worse it becomes , so I'm trimming it down to get it to fly level.
When I come in and land their is 45% down trim and it only trims to 50% total and this is about 5/16" down elevator which has to be slowing it down allot.
I have checked the wing to see if it's twisted up or warped, and I have two others Stryker B's that are ARF without Electric's that are brand new in the box and I looked and compared to see if there is any difference in the body and wings, if there is any it is not noticeable.
So I'm wondering if I need to balance at a differant place on the fuse.

chippedprop

Well as I have been playing the motor calc. I came to the idea to work on cutting down props to see what happens. I normally run a APC 6x4 as it suits my flying skills. Of course I have become bored with the speed so I have come up with a APC 6x5.5 Cut to 5.5 actually about 1/32 under 5.5. On the motor calc. it gives about 1-3/4 amp lower draw-- higher prop speed (over 90 mph) and 31-32 oz of static thrust.
So let's see lower amps--higher speed-- higher thrust = Hugh smile. I am still running a multplex 480 6d brushless 2100 kv motor.
This is the web site for a FREE motor calc .http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
So play with the props and see what YOU can come up with to make your plane fly better and longer
CP

chippedprop

JOE1
Time to spend $20.00 to get a new frame.
CP

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi chippedprop :-(
What is the since in getting a new frame, like I said the airfoil looks the same as my other new one's so it has to have something to do with the balance point as their is no other reason it should be doing what it is, the plane flys great other then the climbing problem,

Maine_Flyer

Joe, sight down the belly of that badboy, it should be flat nose to tail.. if it's bent (from a few slams) not only will it grab more air in the front, but the thrust-line is dropped as well, kinda magnifies the effect.. I've had to bent 'em over my knee before .. to get them straight.. if it's straight, then adjust your thrust-line up.. try sighting the motor's shaft and have that line exit an inch or so high of center of the nose.. much easier to do if you remove one of the vert stabs and use a straight-edge or a line (lazer line would be a sweet way) .. sounds like it's time for a new fuse and they're cheap enough.. last thing I'd be using for tape would be duct tape.. better off to strip it all off and redo with light packing tape.. then you can throw some paint on it and still be lighter

I can remember torqueing mine straight and baking them ..LOL.. back when fuses were hard to get..

Maine_Flyer

you can raise the thrust-line by adding shimms in the front and or torquing down the rear motor mount screws..

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

The sport props are for glow engines.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Maine Flyer :-)
I looked at it just know looked at it again but it looks straight and I already gave it 1/4" of down on the thrust line by putting a shime under the front of motor mount that did help some.
I hate to get rid of it because it handles wind real good and it is strong.

P.S. There has been a few people that said they did not know if APC E Props came in a 7x6 and yes they do!

Wastegate

Flew my rebuilt Stryker with the 2409-12 on the 8x6 APC 'E' today and it is so much better than the 7x5. Level speed is good and vertical is amazing. This time the higher spec ESC held up fine but this set-up really sucks the juice from the battery.

Wastegate

Would they be Ok to use on electrics as I've just ordered a couple?

chippedprop

JOe1
How about a few pics of your plane. I reread your post and ......
1- you want plane to balance on the small circles in the hand holds--move your battery forward or backward to balance even if you have to remove foam--but only up to the nose cone area.
2- Elevons-- turn radio on set trim levers to zero--elevon should be on the same plain with bottom of the plane-- use a ruler or a piece of square stock balsa to check--adjust elevons if ness.
3- go fly --adjust elevon to the "old"setting so you don't crash on take off--climb up to 50-100 ft. throttle back, zero the trims --power up--if plane climbs and the above is correct you have position thrust angle. Land--shim the motor mt. closet to the nose--use 1/16 balsa or alumium flashing (check ace hardware they have cut square pieces about index card size in the flashing dept..) repete step 3--keep repeting until it flys level or very close at zero trim settings.

This is like getting your car aligned (sp.) It will "free" up your air frame and will extend your battery times and will get you more speed and thrust

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Everyone :-)
I think the problem that I'm having is because I was going by looking at all the other brand new Strykers that I have and using them as comparison on the one I'm having trouble with and it looked the same as them.
All the Strykers have the traling edges up and the farther out toward the wing tip the more up there is.
And I thought this was just the way the Stryker was designed, but the more I think about it that I think it is acting like a elevator, and that would sure cause the plane to climb the faster the plane goes.
I would like to know if this is the design of the Stryker or is it a flaw caused by the molding of it.
Thanks Everyone