Mach62

Ha, ha, ha!

You wanna go twice that speed? . . . Gryphon and Buggygovroom are the man on this. I got my set-up waiting for the 70 amp controller . . . just a matter of time before I bust the 110 mark on 6S. But first I have a Funjet to destroy. Buggy has a video on youtube. Type in 120mph Stryker to see it.

r1derbike

Now that's more like it!

Closer inspection on the Stryker, I found one of the tail fins had edged rearward a bit. Used some thin CA on both to lock. The thin CA I used (not foam safe) did NOT melt the foam where it contacted. I tested an inconspicuous spot on the belly first, directly on the white foam where paint wasn't sprayed. It talked about gluing both the fins in the manual, should have followed advice.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Wonder if that particular SF prop design is different from the rest of the SF line of props? Seems most of the SF props had show higher loads than the E series of identical specifications on peakeff's site - well most of them at least that I saw... I mostly only looked at the E prop performance info. Figured it'd be that way across the board with SF vs the E props.

critterhunter

Stryker foam will NOT melt with most ANY glue under MOST circumstances. However, heat will melt any foam if it lasts long enough. In other words, mixing up epoxy that gets very hot or trapping CA has a SLIGHT chance of melting Stryker foam but I've never had it happen. Every paint I've tried has never melted Stryker foam as well. In fact, the only time I've had the foam melt a bit was when using 3M super 77 spray glue to help my tape stick to the plane better, and then only because I sprayed the glue directly onto the foam. Spray the glue onto your tape and let it sit a few seconds (and not be real thick on the tape) and it won't bother the foam. I recommend this spray glue for putting any tape, clear or Extreme strapping tape, onto a Stryker. Unlike many foam planes Parkzone uses a special foam that won't melt under most glues or paint. However, the foam inside the fins or elevons is not foam safe. As long as you are gluing to the coating on top of them they will not melt, but if you are exposing glue to the foam inside of them then use foam safe (orderless) CA, epoxy, or some other foam safe glue.

And, I would NOT glue the fins to the plane unless you want body foam to chunk off on a hard belly landing. The fins should be snug but not glued in place so they can exit the body should need be. A little double sided tape at the leading edge of the fin (like they are stock) will work fine. I don't even use that because I find after painting the fins they are real snug in the body. Glue them in or make them super snug and you'll find out real soon, even on a decent landing, why that shouldn't be done. Besides chunking body foam near the front of them they LOVE to bust off the trailing edge of the body where the fins rest on those little foam "guides" on either side of the motor.

Mach62

Tbanks Critter . . . I did not realize that about z-foam. Now I can do a real good Chrome spray job on my next one.

RIderbike. You can pick up some speed by cutting an inch off the top of the stock fins or, even much better, swap them out for some corex homecut fins. I took an election sign and cut me some and must have picked up about 5 mph and lost a half ounce of weight.

r1derbike

Too late! Deed is done!

Should prolly order a new foam fuse, no?

r1derbike

Mach62:

I may do that to the fins when the wingtips get tatty, and have to cut them down a bit, provided the rest of the fuse doesn't get nuked first!

Critter:

Thanks for the info on the fin gluing. I'll know next time!

DepronJet

almost a thread within a thread that posting !

anyway.. getting a 7x6 APCE prop in the UK is almost impossible, some suppliers say there is no such prop but i have bought them.
the slow fly props worked reasonably well,
but i did find the SF props worked better and did reduce the amps simply because they were slightly less efficent,
or to put it another way the prop would be vertually stalled at zero airspeed,
what helped the amps reduction was the prop was pulling less amps at static thrust but when in full flight it could wind up and sing

one of the things i like most is to get a system working well.. getting the right balance of prop motor and pack for as few dollars as possible

i often say this but it is Brill to see the Thread as strong and well supported as it has always been [8D]

i am sure in the Parkzone Design area there will be an EDF version
me thinks it will be 27D for Ducted

lets hope its as good if not better than the 27C

Ray

Mach62

I got some more flights in on the C version this morning. It is a nice relaxing plane to cruise around on. I have decided to mount a high quality vid cam and fly FPV on this with a altimeter OSD. I just have to get a recorder so I can show the results to others. There is a fisheye lens for this cam that will be really cool and show the entire plane moving through the air. Should be done in a few weeks. First, I have to practice flying that way with an EASYSTAR.

DepronJet

Oppps

nearly forgot to mention !

my own EDF design has been transmogrified even before it went into production !

i upgraded the EDF Nacelle to 76MM for many reasons !

the smaller 55mm edf has a 5.7kvm and running it on 4S make it spin at 75000+ rpm [X(]
that reminds me i must make good the hole in the cieling of the test area [X(]
the larger fan is lower cost.. Lower KVM.. produces more static thrust but i have not flown it yet so i have no idea what the speed will be!

http://www.himodel.com/sort.php?sub1=CJ Scroll down to the 76mm EDF

if it works well then the T33 is the next to be modified MmuuHAHhHA !
i have already dropped an EDF into the T33 to test the thrust on 3S

at this point i want to say Shipping to the U.S. is Crazy cost so unless you want to play you have to PAY [8D]

check out the EDF if you want more info on tests/specs check here... http://b*********.co.uk/?page=shop&item=195

one of the main reasons for going the 76mm EDF is the Wemotec 70mm EDF Fits in like a Glove to the Nacelle
it gets Better .. the Airpower 68mm EDF also fits,
its sad that the shipping cost went up but Hey Ho.. thats the world we live in

Ray

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Lord Hunter,
Was catching up on the posts and saw your question about the camera and using the servo lead.
You should be fine using it. Remember how small the wires are on a UBEC? They are nothing more then servo wires, usually the servos and the rx are pulling around 3 amps max, and I doubt your camera pulls that. I run a hacked CVS unit in my Predator, and use a servo lead to run it, works out fine.

Looking at your bird, maybe it's the photo, but boy is the distance between the wing and elevator close. She is going to be responsive to say the least, to elevator input.

Gryphon

Bleary,

I'm not sure if anyone replied to you or not regarding ideas for your next Stryker.

I have a few ideas. So If you are not in a rush send me an PM and include any restrictions/parameters that you wish.

For Dec, not only I am not going to have internet, my ISP has been down most of the time.


*** I finished my Stryker and it is ready for its maiden. I can not find my multiple pairs of Black F-27C vertical fins. I rather not fly with the grey ones. All local stores are out of both types. I am recovering from a bad flu. It is also raining here.

As soon as the weather permits and I feel better, I will maiden my Stryker on 3S(750-800W) and 4S(1100-1300W).

I better get off of this computer. At Kinko's I'm paying 25 cents/minute, they must be crooked and I must be stupid....



Have fun
Gryphon

maiden-crash

Hi guys I have a question iI posted a thread but I just want to ask the experts here I recently bought a c stryker, and when I first connected the battery the joint started smoking. I disconnected and charged it. Now I reckonnected and the servos worked and the esc did the normal beeps. now, whenever I go past the third throttle click, the motor just does its own thing. I couldnt have shorted something out though because the connectos only go one way/ Please help me.

flyingace451

See my post at your original thread you started, maiden-crash. It should be helpful.

Gryphon

I must be more sick than I know. I went to the store to buy another set of black F-27C vertical fin since I could not find the ones that I thought I had bought.

Well I guess there is no such thing. LOL......

I guess F-27B and F-27C are both grey with same part #.


I feel like I'm in a BEYOND the LIMITS or Alfred Hitchcock movie.....

Better go back to bed and rest more.

Anyway I bought more sets of Grey fins. I'm ready for that maiden flight. I've taken some pictures which I will post in the future when I gave better internet access.

Now I need to look for someone with a good cam and beter weather.


Stay tuned...

Gryphon

Mach62

Thanks for the laugh Gryphon- you must truely be obsessed with that Stryker to endure Kinkos internet and the flu and still be thinking about flying it. I think you may have confused the elevons with the fins as the C elevons are black and the B ones are grey.

This thursday will make 3 weeks I have been waiting on my Jeti ESC from Hobby Lobby - must be stuck at the Can/USA border. [:'(] I wish I just had weather to wait for . . .
[:@][&:][:'(][X(]

I look forward to your flight report/video.

r1derbike

OK...How many flyers thought the prop cone/nut was just a threaded nut-on-a-shaft (reading the manual is optional right?).

I was holding the Stryker nose-down by the prop (no battery in-the-bay), loosened what I thought was a simple cone nut, and was surprised when the Stryker dropped to the carpet nose first!

BWAAHAAHAA!

Compression collet! No damage was done to the nose in the thick carpet, but prolly had that "man, do I look stupid?" expression for a few seconds.

Reading the manual is always optional, right?

maiden-crash

Hey guys I fixed that problem with the strykers esc and had my maiden. This thing is ballistic! Now that got me worried for one reason. What if one of the servos strips midflight? Will I have any control of the plane? Thanks

DepronJet

Yes... you can either screw it into the Ground Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise [&o]

Ray

djnsayne

My Feedback: (2)

Wow.... that's harsh

critterhunter

GG, thanks for the info. I already found out that typical servo wire can handle about an amp. I finally settled on how I wanted to power the camera. Originaly I was using two dummy AA dowl rods loaded into the camera battery compartment and fed via a 3V regulator plugged into a servo plug wired directly to the plane battery. That setup only weighed .8 ounces (without camera, of course).

I then decided that was too much of a monkey rig and was going to fire the camera up via it's USB port power pins. USB requires 5V so the 3V regulator wouldn't power up the camera. Then I was going to use a 7805 voltage regulator (output 5V) to power it via the USB. I was also thinking of powering the USB directly from the BEC but don't want to risk the BEC overheating.

However, my final solution was just to use the 3V regulator and a servo plug soldered to the battery compartment terminals. Still enough room to plug in normal AAs if I want to use the camera out of the plane. Didn't want to take the camera apart to wire up a jack. Camera has a servo plug hanging out of it off the battery terminals. That plugs into another servo plug at the 3V regulator, and then the 3V regulator plugs into another servo plug that is being fed straight battery voltage and not through the BEC. This entire rig now only weighs .5 ounces, and that's complete with a large heat sink on the regulator to keep it cool and some noise isolation components to prevent problems. This compares to two AA batteries which way 2.1 ounces so it's a good weight savings.

I now also am able to unplug that hole setup and plug a 9-12V 2.4 ghz video transmitter and a 12V CCD camera into the plane. Not sure if I can get away without a 12V regulator for that setup. The 9-12+ volt range of a 3 cell lipo might be enough. I might have to add some nose cancelation components to that, however. If I opt for a 12V regulator I'd probably have to go for a switching regulator because normal linear ones need at least +2 volts more than 12V to output that.

The wing to tail distance on this 36" fuse...Yea, I do have the wing back a bit further but only enough to get COG proper without having to add nose weight. The distance isn't a close as it looks in the picture. I've built other foamies with less distance between wing/tail and didn't have a problem. Can always lower the rates for the elevator if need be.

critterhunter

I got two of those (german?...don't remember the name) white 7x7 nylon electric props in the mail yesterday. They look nice and of real good quality. Only problem is the prop shaft hole on them is rather large. APCs always come with plastic adaptors to fit various prop adaptor sizes. Not sure how to go about mounting this prop on my bullet prop adaptor?

Maine_Flyer

I hear that!... after sending that duff 55mm unit back to himodel they said they tested it and it works perfectly.. maybe seems fine in a 10 second run up.. but I told them to run it til it gets warmed up and watch the amps climb then jump to 40+ amps and 700watts from around 15 amps/half throttle without touching the throttle..LOL..
anyhow I asked them to exchange it for the 76mm model with the 2500+/- KV ... more thrust less amps.. at least compared to the 55mm I had with the bad motor..

been running the XF fan from hobbylobby on one of my lightwieght strykers and having a blast with skis on it.. the motor won't handle 4s but I have one coming from X-flight the same size, kv, shaft size, perfect fix for the XF fan http://www.x-flight.hk/e/products/pr...p?ic=DF210_8XL and handles 4s and up to 450 watts.. the sound and speed should have quite a cool factor that puts a smile on.
[>:]

hope that himodel comes thru with that exchange for the 76mm fan unit, cuz I have some plans in mind that include a clipped wing easystar and that fan[8D] then the f16 falcon from X-Flight[8D]

rock on Ray!!

djnsayne

My Feedback: (2)

Maidened my brushless stryker today and all it would do were torque rolls into the ground. I wonder if my thrust line was off. Also I am using a fairly low kv motor. himax 2810-1080 with an Apc 7.5x5E prop. Any other thoughts about what may be causing this?

Maine_Flyer

djnsayne, motor kv is too low for the prop choice.. that dosen't explain the torque rolling though.. make sure you trim it well by eye (elevons level) .. make sure all systems are working properly.. ie: right stick, right elevon goes up left goes down; left stick, left el goes up and right goes down; back stick, both go up; down stick, both go down..

it should still fly with that motor but your gonna need as big a prop as you can find with high pitch.. say an 8x8.. then even still it will lack performance without more KV.. I'd say that 1500kv would be a minimum..

good luck ... look for a new motor.. a good choice would be something 1700kv --2500kv and prop it accordingly for the amps your batts can give without going over 80% of thier capabilities..