somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Found a Mini 5-in-1 camera under the tree today. Capable of 320x240x20fps or 640x480x10fps. The 320x240 at 20 fps is not bad at all. Little studdery but for $35 in-flight footage it shouldn't be bad at all. 7/8 oz flight weight on my digital scale. ~6MB internal memory. Gonna pick up a 512MB SD card tomorrow for the SD slot on the camera.

Mach62

Somegeek:

I have that camera and you will notice that the default setting is too green. You will need to plug it into the computer and use the included software to adjust the HUE full on.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Default setting was fine on mine. I did note that if I had the camera hooked up to my PC and was using it in a web cam manner that the auto white balance was causing the image to change from green to normal every 3 seconds or so. Just walking around and capturing though it was fine. Performed better outside with natural light. Fine by me - only place I'll really be using it anyways.

jeraldjcook

A few questions for you experts:

Did you use CA or epoxy to mount the balsa TE? Also, how many hinges per side did you use? 4?

I have a new F27c that I was going to stiffen up a bit. Will the balsa stiffen the airframe up enough to do away with the CF rod from tip to tip?

Lastly, does the new motor mount do away with the problem the "B" version had, that in a hard impact the motor mount would tear out and take a huge chuck of the fuselage with it? I'll still put some packing tape on the motor mount area, but I always have reinforced the area with CF rods as well. Are the CF rods still necessary? Thanks for the input.

DepronJet

HHAHHAHHAHA

we are making it up as we go along !! [8D]

foam safe CA takes nearly as long to cure as 5 Min Epoxy in my book !

i am doing lots of testing with wood spars and dowels a the moment,
CF rod doesnt break but wood has more potential than you realise !
dont loose sight of your goal !

Ray

Gryphon

My trailing edge is made out of C.F. strip, It has been epoxied in place, it has four cutouts for the 4 stock hinges.
Away from the hinge area, I use 3M strapping tape to hold the T.E. in place.
I don't trust just the Epoxy on a narrow edge to hold it all in place, because what if it does not hold? Then what?....Your plane will go down.
Epoxy alone might be o.k. for stock F-27B, but I wouldn't want to thrust it on a fast plane with additional forces at work.
Two of my friends have used 3M tape on top of their wooden T.E.s

***You still need to have an extra C.F. rod side to side if your plane is good for near 80MPH or more.

For your last question: I don't know, because I cover the area with 3m Tape, I am sure that without tape, and at higher speeds, you will still rip the area even if you are using F-27C mount.

Some times the front of the fuse breaks off when you hit the ground at 45 degrees, I run two strips of tape under the center of the body from front to the rear and that helps keep the front section from breaking off. It is also great to skid on.
A couple of small pieces on the bottom of the vertical fin and that also becomes great to skid on (change tape as needed).

Every one does it different, read some of the other replies and do some of your own trials. You will be the expert before long.

Have fun,
Gryphon

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

I used epoxy and four hinges per side for the balsa elevons- details and pics here. My next fuselage build will be similar but will use 3/4" or 1" aileron material vs the 1.25" I am currently using to shave some weight.

It will stiffen up the wing section but not the fuselage from tip to tip. I've not flown with any tip to tip pieces of reinforcement and my plane has performed well but I am also just flying around the 80s at the moment. I've not noted any significant flex in the fuselage.

Also depends on how you will be flying your plane mellow sweeping turns or WOT full input turns. If you're hammering the inputs at WOT for turns and what not you'll want to reinforce the plane to withstand the abuse if you're modding your stryker past the stock limits.

Mach62

I would not use balsa as a trailing edge reinforcement; use basswood as it is more rigid and strong. I have run that in place of the carbon rods and it is a good mod, esp. if you are using the balsa elevons, then you get a wood to wood surface. I have just set up my Mega 16/25/3 for 4S and beyond but need a prop adapter before I fly it. This should push it in into the mid 90s on the 6X5.5 APC (e) at just under 500 watts. I have no carbon rods, only 3M Extreme from wingtip to wingtip. The C mount will break off the foam just like the B; it is just that it will break a bigger chuck of foam off! If you use strapping tape around it, then it the foam will break at the limits of the tape. This has happened over and over to me when I used to crash a lot. I read about the FMA co-pilot for about 70 bucks that is only 1 ounce and flies the plane straight and level with neutral sticks. That would certainly be one way to test super high speed manoevers but for you really good pilots it would be too much of a crutch. I think it would great for a begginer to learn on.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Basswood is heavier. Also if you sort through the balsa bin for a given size there are different weights of balsa in the same bin - natural variation. I looked for the most rigid piece in the bin and it varied quite a bit from the softest balsa in the same bin. To each their own.

r1derbike

Couple of high-alpha, inverted near-hovers down the runway, and it's back to WFO, 'til the battery screams no more. This thing just seems to like WOT, low high-speed passes, and tight WOT turns, low to the ground. Impresses the onlookers. If it bites it, so what, usually a cheap fix. If major, airframe is cheap. A good "fly it like it was stolen" airplane.

Only bird in my arsenal I don't mind getting jiggy with. Bond, James Bond.

Buggygovroom

Basswood is heavier, but the little bit of extra weight is more than made up for by the extra strength. Especially a 1000+ watt setup like myself and a few others run or want to run. I wouldnt skimp on a few extra ounces of reinforcement for a 5+ cell setup. The power will be more than enough to pull the little bit of extra weight and still be greater than 1:1

Gryphon

Here are a couple of pics from my bird while it was being built.

You can see the C.F. strip T.E. (this stuff is 0.486 grams/inch).
I added 2 more feet of C.F. after these two pics.

*** I've been waiting to hear comments as far as the C.F. strips on top of wing(0.241 grams/inch)...Why hasn't anyone said: "Why are they going from front to rear instead of side to side, what are they for?"

As usual, you can expect out of focus pics from me.
Should I get a good digital camera or new 5000 mAH extreme battery? Well the battery of course.
Should I get a MIDI fan or camera? MIDI fan of course.

So bear with me and my lousy webcam and lousy cell phone camera.


Gryphon

Mach62

Gryphon:

That looks rock solid.

Tell me. Do you have any numbers on what your 2650KV Mega Long Can draws on 3S and 4S on various prop sizes?

critterhunter

To add confusion, muddy the waters, and just in general try to offer a different point of view to the trailing edge debate, I only use the stock elevons/hinges and cover the trailing edge of the body where the hinges go through with Extreme strapping tape. Simply place the tape on the trailing edge of the body and fold it from top to bottom over it. use some 3M Super 77 spray glue to add more grab to the tape (and all other tape you put on the body). Poke holes through the tape/foam where the stock hinge snaps need to go through and install the elevons. Done!

I haven't had a failure yet on the BP21 or 12T brushless motors. No chunking, no flexing, no elevon creasing. It's cheap, easy, and quick. The stock 27B or 27C elevons/hinges already are spaced properly with the perfect gap so there is no hassle there either. And, if you do trash your elevons it will only take $3 for a new pair and about five minutes of snapping off/on the hinges to throw them on. Why re-invent the wheel?

I've messed with balsa and such on the trailing edge or for the elevons and it was more trouble than it was worth for me. I also didn't like the fact that the balsa would flex less than the body in a bad crash and thus I'd chunk foam. As for motor mounts...Yep, I'd still use some Extreme strapping tape under it and wrap it from top to bottom of the plane before putting the C or B mount on. Any newbies with a new Stryker under the tree can follow my complete build thread from start to finish and containing most of the proven "Dark Side" strength and ease of use mods on this thread...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4790624/tm.htm

critterhunter

I'd look into Gorilla Glue for just about any foam to part contact...Putting carbon tubes into channels, installing hinges into foam, gluing the balsa to the trailing edge (if you are going that route). It's much lighter and stronger than epoxy or CA. I now only use epoxy to glue plastic parts together such as the canopy/hatch as one piece, installing magnets onto those, etc.

Some people flying brushless Strykers only use Extreme strapping tape and no carbon tubes. I prefer the tubes and then cover them with the Extreme strapping tape after they are glued in. As a sidenote, if you are using the two carbon tubes in the body crossing directly under the motor mount then the Extreme tape under the mount might not be needed. I say *might* because I haven't tried it yet. A tiny bit of extra weight to make the mount rock solid is small insurance.

Gryphon

critterhunter,

The very first time I did the 3M Elevon mod almost exactly like you, but I screwed up and my elevon was upside down. Didn't have much of down elevator and lost some general maneuverability, I was still on my stock motor. LOL.....

Next time I was paying attention to direction and location of the Elevon and realized that by putting the tape across first, I was still raising the elevon by the thickness of the 3M tape.

So now I think it is better to place the elevon in position and have it "INITIALLY" held in place by two small clear piece of tape on the outer hinges(temp position hold like extra pair of hands) while we get a full piece of strapping tape. Next I start to lay down the 3M tape over the inside hinges which keeps them in place, I remove the two small clear tapes from the outer hinges and finish laying the 3M to the left and the right. Then I cut off the excess 3M tape from the ends. I also place a strip on the bottom side (either tape is flush with T.E.).
Using a hobby knife I make my vertical cuts for the keepers/locks and then install them close enough to the hinge line to get the least excess movement from the stock hinge assembly.

The above method does not raise the Elevon (by the thickness of 3M tape), furthermore it holds the Elevon in place better because the tape over the hinge helps keep it in place better. The finished job looks a bit more smoother.

I believe the improvement of this mod over yours is so small that it is next to negligible.

The 3M tape can be cut to half width so the amount used on T.E. is same as you have it, but I use full width strips and probably have no extra gain because of the extra width.

Hope you like this small alteration of the 3M T.E. mod.

Gryphon

Mach62

I finally lost my 4S virginity today. WOW, it was a lot faster than 3S. I was pulling a little over 33 amps static on 4S with the Mega 16/25/3 so a little under 500 watts static. AUW of the plane was 717 grams. I would guess speed at 90-95 mph. With a 2100 mah, the flight lasted only maybe 3 mins or so. I then pulled 46 amps static on 5s for almost 800 watts but I have no reinforcements on that plane other than Extreme tape so I decided to save 5S for my next Stryker which I will put basswood spar and balsa elevons. It needs the weight as even with 4S the plane was nose heavy.

djnsayne

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone have any 27C motor mounts that they wouldn't mind parting with. My LHS doesn't stock them and are cluless about ordering replacement parts.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Part Number PKZ4234. advantagehobby.com offers free shipping on orders over $10. I don't see this part on their page but you might call to see if they have them.

Gryphon

djnsayne,

Order directly from Horizon is all else fails. When I got sick and tired of my local stores screw-ups and wanted to keep them out of the equation of my down time, I started ordering directly.
I now stock every single part, for use only by me, my best friend and my brother.
_________________________________



Mach62,

You can fly with that 5S on stock elevons because it is a lower KV motor. The stock elevons are fine past 100 MPH close to 110MPH.

You can always add some C.F. to your existing plane, along with 3M tape.

You will C.G. on stock points even with 5S-2100, let alone 4S-2100, because I did it on TP 4200-3S prolite. To do it you need to push the battery back further into the electronics bay. Don't bother with stock C.G. points, just push it back to reduce your nose weight by half or whatever you like. I had stock elevons and vertical fins on that plane earlier in the year.
Battery can lay on its side if needed, you can cut the center divider out, you can cut some material from the floor as needed, but on the prolite battery I was fine dept wise. I cut some material from the side walls.
Depending on the weight and location of the battery, you may need to really pack your electronics (ESC/receiver) close to each other and closer to the motor to make room for battery. May end up needing (2) short servo wire extensions to reach receiver.

Let me tell you.....Past 700, 750W a whole different kind of fun starts......MUHAAAAHAAAAHAAAA (Evil laugh)

For now on 4S, prop up till you get in the low to mid 40's amp wise......For speed make sure to stay close to 1:1 ratio prop (diameter/pitch). I recommend APC pylon props in the 6.5" diameter with pitch from 5.5, 6.0, 6.5
thrust will them be in the 40's o.z. range.

I hope you are using a UBEC when on 4S and also disable your ESCs positive wire to receiver.
***Did you get my spreadsheet on that motor and 4S, it has thrust readings also. No prop in the 40's AMP range or 6.5" props.
I have numbers with smaller and larger props. I wish I knew about those great pylon props back then.

2100mAH battery is just too small, consider a 3300 or 3800, you can make the plane fly just fine with those, I guess you will like the weight of the 3300 more than 3800 and it is easier to make room for.

With load the battery voltage drops, and lower voltage makes the motor draw less amps.
You will see that given a bigger battery, you will have a few% higher voltage under load, A few% higher amp to go with it.
V * A = Watts , so you will have an even bigger% of power increase.

I easily see 10% power difference between a 15C battery and 22C battery given larger loads, both using the same motor/ESC/prop.
A larger battery acts like a higher C rating battery as well because it will not drop the voltage as much as a smaller capacity battery.

Have fun guys,
Gryphon

Buggygovroom

I think we are talking about extreme speed setups. Toss a 1700 kv motor on there 6x5.5 prop on 6s and it will not hold. Ive tried it Just tape and fiberglass strips gave way on 4s just crossing the 100mph mark and it hooked and flexed hard. Unless you just fly in straight lines but even then it will still flex in a high speed turn. I have plenty of test data on various cell/prop combos and as far as physical durability ive tested it time and time again My fuse was built after about a month of daily flying and testing to come up with the lightest but strongest reinforcement in key areas. I flew my stryker in 40 mph wind gusts a couple weeks ago and it flew through it like the plane was solid steel. Not to mention using the heavy wind as a tail wind i got the bird up to 180ish mph and just started seeing control/flex problems and I was really yanking and banking =D Stock elevons will not handle much over 90mph let alone 100+. Also, wood absorbs moisture.. be sure to seal it or use CF wherever possible.

You get what you put into it. Sure if you want to run a setup a bit over stock you can get away with light reinforcement, and a bit of tape on the stock parts. Sure its easy to replace a stock elevon when it fails, but who says it will fail at a convenient time? the little extra bit of effort involved for high strength mods is well worth it. Why not take the extra 20 minutes to add some basswood te with hinges, or cf spars in addition to extreme tape and be solid rather than risk a failure taking the easy road and having to spend the time rebuilding a fuse all over again? In the long run it is a time saver.

Also im happy to report since the building of my stryker and daily flying there is no curves or warps in the fuse. It is still as straight as the day I built it.

Mach62

I was really pushing the limits on that set-up without he basswood. That would have helped to balance it better as I have light fins made from an election sign.

I run a Parcbec but don't need to disable the ESC BEC since there is none - OPTO. I plug the Parbec to the battery slot and the ESC to the throttle.

For my next Stryker I will go full on reinforcement . . . but the fuses are on backorder and I have been waiting 3 weeks so lots of x-mas gifts of Strykers perhaps.

I am tempted to go ahead and order that Mega 2650KV motor. But I heard it is a real amp hog on 3S like in the 70amp range on a 6X5.5. Is that true? Do you guys have some reading on that motor?

Gryphon

send me an e-mail and I will reply with my attached Excel spreadsheet and all data on 3S, 4S and 5S with various props.

For MEGA 16/25/2 2650KV motor: {this is a 480 brushless motor at 1/2 o.z. heavier than stock motor}

I tested Aeronaut 6X5 prop at 575 watts, 53A, 23,700RPM on a 4200-3S prolite that was full charge.

You don't have to go with high amps it is up to you to run a bigger prop.

It was me that told you it is a amp hog...but it is not wasted, motor stays cool and all the power goes into the prop.

I tested 5.5X5.5 prop up to APC 8X6.
on 3800-3S 22C battery that is 20% empty, APC E 8X6, 9.98V, 105.4A, 1053 Watts, 15330 RPM
on 3800-3S 22C battery that is 1/3 empty, Graupner CAM 5.5X5.5 10.96V, 45.9A, 503W, 24000 RPM (550W with bat 5% empty)
_______

I recommend: "APC pylon 6.5X6.5" 75A, 825W, 21540 RPM, 133MPH prop pitch speed, with 3800-3S 15% empty this test was on STD advance.
Same prop on 4200-3S 15C prolite: 19710 RPM/670W, 740W/20500RPM with high advance, but you can see that the better Extreme battery above is much better than high advance as far as power goes.

_____________
3850-5S Graupner CAM 5.5X5.5 33,300 RPM, 1609W, 95.54A, 16.84V, 174MPH pitch speed with battery 10-20% empty
_________
Later
Gryphon

critterhunter

Got the 30 amp 3200 k/v outrunner in the mail today. Initial impressions are good. The winds look uniform and clean, the casing looks of quality, and the motor is much smaller than I thought it would be. Can't wait to try it out...

critterhunter

I've decided my homemade Mustang needs a prop saver to help prevent bending the shaft on the 12T motor. Never played with these things before so I'm at a complete loss. No instructions with it and the Hobby Store clerk was a complete lack of help. Anybody care to school me on this GWS prop saver? I take it it has to be used with a GWS prop, which is fine since I have one of those in the size I want to use...9x4.7. Have no idea how it goes on, with what, etc. I need specific details here if anybody can help.