Maine_Flyer

I was told by 4 different suppliers that, "lipos need no special initial cycling, just fly 'em"(I take that info wit a grain or two of salt seeing how they are in the business of selling lipos).. all I do is just be easy with them on the first few cycles... the first discharge only about half, let it rest before charging.. I don't beat on 'em too bad for the next few cycles.. then beat away(within specs of coarse) what I've found (too many times) is what hurts them the most is heat-- Either from over discharge, or poor ventilation.... if you smuther a pack in foam and run it at it's rated discharge, it's not going to last near as long as one that was kept cooler at the same discharge rate.. so ifn' yer gonna smuther them in foam.. use the 80% constant rate of discharge figure for your draw... or.. open your wallet sooner then expected[:@]

this will hold true for any brand, cheap or expensive.. a little airflow will double their life if you run them at the "bragged about" constant discharge rate.. most won't hold up to 80% without airflow..

rock forth

enephel

My Feedback: (13)

I bought a Heli-max 6-pole motor a couple of months ago. The kV was right between the Mega 3 turn and Mega 4 turn. I have a standard Zagi size prop on it. The stiffer black one. My batteries are Venom 3S 2100 15C.

With a CC25 controller I was lighting it up at 3/4 throttle so I bought a Eflite 40A. Just under full throttle it starts puking out.

Do I have a timing issue? I don't think I should be 40+ amps. Anyone estimates on amperage?

I leave my whatt meter at my friend's house where I usually build. Just thought I'd ask here before I try it.

Here is a link for the motor:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLBS1

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Wha size prop are you running? Any RPM estimates? What's the kV? You might be hitting the switching limit of the ESC.

I know if I run up my motor without the prop it hits the switching limit of the ESC but with the load of the prop it doesn't get near that max RPM.

somegeek

enephel

My Feedback: (13)

130mmx125mm. The other side says 5x5.

33Amps is the limit for my battery. I have some other props around that I can try. I just went for a bigger ESC when I saw the LED on my CC25 light up.

kV is 2580. There it was in the glass display case. It seemed like the perfect motor for a flying wing. So I did what anyone else would do. I bought it.

XxOoCoBrAoOxX

I think that I am just going to head up to the Radio Shack and buy me one of those 3amp chargers that they have. I did not even nothey carried those untill someone here sent the link,Thnx for that link, I will be totally satisfied with this one! Thanks for all the great help and links! You guys are trully kind.

Thanx Again!

Hey guys I know this is going to sound allitle bit random but I am thinking about moving up and ordering me a PKZ F-27C Stryker. Im really thinking of getting one if I am not satisfied with the speed performance Stryker B with its LiPo Mod. What you guys think?

-Adisn

Mach62

I had the B and then bought the C and never looked back. You get another charger and lipo with the C.

But, if I had to do it over again, I would have bought a good radio (DX-6), ESC and brushless motor and just dumped it all into the B to make it brushless. I have about 4 junk radios in my basement because I kept buying RTF planes. If you get into this hobby big time, and I am sure you will since you are on this board a lot, then you will want a good computer radio, brushless ESC and brushless motor. With those 3 items you can keep building Strykers for 20 bucks a pop, if you make your own elevons and fins out of Balsa.

jeraldjcook

I agree with Mach62. Since you already have a Typhoon, you can use that tx for now and convert your F27B for next to nothing. After you have converted it over, only then I would purchase a DX6 (or DX7 if you have the funds). If money is not an issue by all means purchase them at the same time. But I'd rather have a faster plane to fly with an old tx then a shiny new DX6 and no plane.

12T motor and 25amp esc = $40
rx = $30
2 hs-81mg = $45

For $115 you just turned your F27B into a F27C.

Mr. Mugen

Geeze. I only paid 120.00 for a plug and play and all I needed was my rx and battery. That was for my F27C

XxOoCoBrAoOxX

So, I just plugged my LiPo into my 27B and man that was crazy power, for my noob self . I no guys thats nothing, im just new to all this power. Can you guys tell me what are the parts(including a prop) needed so I can Mod up my 27B to a 27C, But not to crazy just about 80mph or so? So if you guys can list the parts and a motor mount that can be perfectly fit? Thanx I just need allitle extra help, I have some money left over and would like to buy the parts and make my 27B to a brushless beauty.
I feel like im getting more and more sucked into the darkside its so weird heh.

Cali11

Rob the radio TX/RX from your typhoon and buy that 2409-12t esc combo.get the $5.00 f27c mount and either use the servos from the typhoon or get some hs81.You could be flying for about $60.00 then.

XxOoCoBrAoOxX

Is a Joe1 here please? Or any body that has information about that motor and esc combo from aero nuts? Just want to know what prop and how did that thing run?? thnx Cali for all the help, still will be talking.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

The APC 6x5.5E or 7x5E is a good prop for that 12T.

XxOoCoBrAoOxX

Yo some geek can you PM me your setup with the Prop and motor mount? If its ok with some links to pics of where you ordered it from? Thnx man!

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

This is my stryker build thread with info. I picked up the Parkzone F27c mounts(Part No PKZ4234) locally. If you order them online make sure to order a few extra. When I was running the 12T I used an APC 7x5 E prop. The APC prop and other APC E props can be ordered here. Free shipping if you order over $10 worth of loot. This APC E 6x5.5 prop will provide a little less thrust, but you'll get longer flight times.

I am currently running a Graupner 6x6 speed cam prop on a custom 7 turn Komodo 278V2 motor. Roughly a 30A load.

XxOoCoBrAoOxX

Nice instructions! thanx! heres a random pick of my bird and the connector I beautifully soldered on. Soldering things is so much fun!

Gryphon

XxOoCoBrAoOxX,
Make sure to remove the jumper which lets the ESC know that you are running a 3 cell lipoly.....for the correct cutoff voltage.

Owners manual link is below, look at page #6 & 7.
http://www.parkzone.com/ProdInfo/Fil...ualcropped.pdf
On page 7 pic, J3 means Jumper number 3. It needs to be removed when using 3 cell lipoly.
When flying with NiMh battery put that jumper back on.
If you fly with your lipoly while the jumper is on, the cutoff will happen too late and you will damage your lipoly.
If you fly with NiMh and forget to put the jumper back on, the cutoff will happen way too early.

What are you running for a prop?

If you want to fly faster without buying anything else, let me know in a PM(make sure to remind me of your complete setup).

Have fun,
Gryphon

Mach62

Also, you might want to put a strip of velcro into the batt bay at the bottom and then one on the batt to keep it from popping out during aerobatics. I lost a Lipo when I started flying by doing an outside loop with nothing but the hatch to secure the batt. It ripped out everything but the motor. Never found the lipo or receiver. A dogowner found the ESC a week later and returned it to me when he saw me flying next (pure luck). My most expensive mistake to date. Velcro keeps it in there nicely.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

This works well too - very solid. Using a hot nail you can melt some slots in the bottom of the battery area to glue in some velcro strips. I melted grooves about 1/2" deep.

holyschmoley

I was looking around for a new charger that plugs into the wall instead of a car and that has the balancing lead that will work for the stock 27c lipo 3S battery. It'd be nice to have something that works for other batteries and a greater number of cells in the future. Mainly I want it to plug into the wall and have the right lead that fits that stock battery, though. Any ideas?

I found this in a previous post for $55 but don't know if has the right lead or if it's DC or wall outlet.
http://www.thunderpower-batteries.co...dBalancers.htm

holyschmoley

Another thing - on my 27c, I took a brand new plane i put together out on it's maiden flight yesterday. I recycled and old motor and esc from a previous plane. It ran fine but was just a bit slower than normal and not quite as fast. It had a new prop and everthing seemed placed correctly. I also had a new engine mount. Well it sounded a bit louder than normal and then towards the end of the flight, I suddenly lost throttle control. After landing it, I saw that the engine broke straight through the engine mount and was hanging by wires with the prop gone. What the heck could cause that? It was a brand new engine mount.

Cali11

Did you have the screws tight that mount the motor to the new mount?Did it sound liek there was alot of vibration?maybe the prop was out of ballance?I know vibration could do that.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

Have you pondered a PC power supply converted for 12v supply use? Just throwing out there as an option...

holyschmoley

The screws were tight. It was a new motor mount and prop. Maybe the prop was out of balance. We'll see when I get a new motor mount with the next flight.

holyschmoley

PC power supply? I'm not sure what you mean. My current stock charger plugs into the car. I was looking to replace it with something that plugs into a wall outlet since I never need to charge in the field and would rather be closer by my charger. Also, my stock f27c charger has gotten touchy and sometimes starts giving errors for no reason or just after being bumped - but then charges fine again when being restarted. Also, sometimes after I check back after charging for an hour or so, it's blinking green like it's ready to go, so I don't know if it finished and then just went back to ready mode or not. Half the time I don't know if my batteries are completely charged or not and am afraid to start it up again.

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

PC power supplies can be altered for use as a 12V supply. They are already wired to supply your PC with a +12V feed. With some basic soldering you can create a 12V supply to use with your charger.

http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/ - left-hand frame - scroll to the bottom - there are two links there explaining what you do.





Don't mind the flower pot for charging the lipos above. I was a little paranoid when I started using lipos. I'm still careful but no longer charge with the packs in that flower pot.

somegeek