Gryphon

Stryker_Viking,

Lots of good posts there my friend. K_P was going to maiden tomorrow, but he ran into an issue this morning. It'll be a little while now.

I miss both of you guys.


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Brazman,

I see the next BEAST is well on its way. As you already said it'll be built much faster this time.

Consider adding 2 more hinges to each elevon (1 extra between each pair of hinges). It’ll hardly cost anything or take any more time or add any weight. If you have a bad landing and you hit on the end of the wing the force will be spread to more number of hinges. Maybe it'll last more number of YEARS

I don't know...just throwing it out there for you to think about. I thought of it that last time, but it was after I saw the finished assembly....better to error on side of caution regardless of how strong the hinges are. With 5 hinges, 1 bad, damaged, worn, or defective hinge will not cause a crash. If you do it...don't rush.

Have fun...remember pics incase you decide to do that build thread...maybe little video of some of that glass work......probably NOT

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smoothound,

You didn't comment on your ESC and battery. Lipoly batteries often lose performance when stored. That issue is minimized with a particular charge cycle called storage charge.

Constant current up to 3.85V, followed by Constant voltage of 3.85V. This CC/CV is what almost all chargers due but at 4.2V. Fancy chargers have the storage charge option that works as I described above.

Any way depending on your ESC and lipoly the climbing prop will be 6X4, and speed prop maybe 5.5X5.5 or 6X5.5, or 6X5.
Depending on what you are used to, you might not find the climbing of 5.5X5.5 that exciting.

Aeronaut 6X5 should be a good prop depending on your ESC and battery.

If things don't run right, take a voltage reading of your battery under load to see if it is handling the load fine with motor at full throttle.
Get help from a friend to be safe. Keep tests to 5 seconds max and disregard numbers from first few seconds.
Numbers are more meaningful if a fully charged battery has just recently been discharged 5% and is internally warm. A short take off and landing will ensure 5+% discharge.

So what size battery do you have and what is its "C" ratings?
What are your ESC constant and burst limits?


Later,

Gryphon

Flightops_69

I like the pics Brazman. I have the wooden stock for the TE and the elevons, do I need to purchase hinges or do you all manufacture your own? Its my last piece I need in the puzzle!

smoothound

I've just used a 6x4 and I have a FlightPower Evo 30 2000 4s and a Revolution 18C 2100 4s and the Revo is by far better under load

Both packs are around 10 cycles each and the FP is dropping past 13v after 5 sec run and the Revo is around a volt higher which heightens my disbelief of what some pack suppliers put on their packaging [>:]


ESC is a Phoenix 35A currently

Flightops_69

Here's a link to a guy I met who fly's around the Island here. You should see his setup, fly's and can see using special goggles that have a screen linked to his plane. Would love to have that setup on a stryker, but waaay too heavy.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=NLgE4gfk2Lg&feature=related

Gryphon

smoothound,


My buddy ran the CC35A which has burst of 45A at 47A with good airflow and he had no problems.

I ran MOTORCALC simulations for you:

You wouldn't want to run more amps than that on the 16/15/4 motor anyway…..this motor is not efficient at above medium amp flow. But I’m sure you will fly at about 95 MPH on 4S.

Your ESC is fine for the mentioned props...so no issue there.

The F-27C scoop is much better than F-27B because it lets in more air. Also opening up the side air vents increases the airflow inside.
Cut some air holes in the rear hatch to let the air exit...this will seriously increase the air flow volume and air speed under the hatch for better cooling of your parts.

The amp flow is going to be different between your two packs.

With load the voltage drops on packs, the better pack drops less voltage.

When motor sees higher voltage it tries to get to higher RPM and therefore draws more amps. Makes more power, and run warmer too.

The 4S-2100 18C battery is a little borderline for the 6X5.5 sized prop, so keep an eye on its temp....summer is coming...better do the cooling mods.

Make sure that for your future battery purchases, you first consider possible motor upgrade that may be in store for future.....so lets discuss future battery purchases before you buy any more (when the time comes)....in case you want more packs. Don’t make your next pack undersized for future motor upgrade.


Gryphon

Gryphon

Flightops_69,

The setup is sweet.

I have heard and seen 1 step better on the internet. With sensors in a helmet when you move your head the camera that is on the airplane pans and tilts (w/2 servos), so the video goggles makes it like you were sitting in the cockpit and as you turn your head you see everything in all directions ...up/down ...left/right ...COOL huh?

If I cannot find the links, then send PM to mach62, I think he has some links to a Canadian company that put the $1300???? setup together. It was mounted on an electric plane (center of fuse over cockpit).

I'm going to watch the rest of that video now.


Gryphon

smoothound

Going on the suppliers figures the smaller pack should be better but obviously it's glitter not truth

Not sure I will be getting a new motor anytime soon but I guess it always happens [8D]

On the new pack choices I come back to my other query about opening up the battery bay and the loss of the bulkheads making the airframe weaker and more reliant on the strengthening strip underneath. So what are most people running bigger packs doing about this loss of strength?

Gryphon

smoothound,

I'm sorry,

I meant the 18C pack, not smaller pack......
I will edit the post above.


I have to run now........ I hope others will answer the battery bay question.


Gryphon

smoothound

To be honest the 18C pack is far superior to the supposed 30C pack. I have used both packs on my 450 size heli and the 18C pack maintains much higher headspeed than the 30C pack.

the figures on the sides of the packs read as follows:-

18C Max Discharge 38A Burst 76A 198g
30C Max Discharge 60A Burst 120A 228g

If I loaded the 30C pack up to even 60A I dread to think what the stabilised voltage would be

I am currently tempted to switch most of my packs over to the Revo's as they do hold a much higher voltage under load than most other packs I've used even though the packaging may not give that impression...

What cells would you suggest as a next step?

Gryphon

smoothound,

You might have a defective battery.....or that it has gone bad. For similar sized packs (2000 vs 2100) if the 18C is outperforming a 30C........I just don't see another explanation.

Send it back but call them first. Tell them what is happening and ask for a new one.

I know Thunder Power in USA takes good care of their customers...don't know about others.

_________________________

For future packs;

Not knowing your possible future setup will make it hard to put a finger on a pack.

If you want a 4S battery to use now, but want it to be able to handle 60-65A easily for 105 MPH runs (with better motor) and good flight duration, I would look at 4S-3300 25C type pack.
If high power is required on 4S and flight duration is not an issue and you need a lighter weight option than 3300, the new 4S-2600 packs from TP will work. FP has 2500, NEU has 2500. (NEU is short and thick and sometimes a little lower priced, while FP costs more).


http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Ba...ectronics.html 30C=$115

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http://thunderpowerrc.com/html/extreme-V2.html 25C=$115

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http://www.flightpower.co.uk/index.asp?currency=GBP&page=Products/index.asp^currency=GBP

http://www.flightpowerusa.com/index.asp?page=Products/index.asp^currency=USD 25C=$120

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I rather have 3300 over 2500 size...but that is just me and my needs...every Stryker is different.

For high amp draw 3700-3850...but I don't realistically see you running this size battery with your 16/15/4.

___________

All batteries come half full and need to be charged first before doing any sort of discharge at any amp level.
Cycle battery at low amp draw for first cycle or two before dishing out the beating.

Let us know whenever you are ready for a motor upgrade.....if you do it soon, that is o.k. you can still run it at lower amps levels for now to use with your current packs. The higher efficiency will waste less heat in motor at 90+ MPH speeds.
Higher efficiency will mean a little longer flight when putting out same power because it draws in fewer amps.
It will also mean that while drawing in same power, it will have higher output.
It will also mean that when wasting the same amount internally that it will be drawing in and putting out a lot more power for a huge jump in performance.

Your brushless 400 sized motor is sold new at $80.
You have a $80 Medusa option and two $95 MEGA options, all are brushless 480 size. All have the same 28mm diameter to fit the mount.
The 480 size handles the amps much better than similar 400 sized motor.

Most popular motor is the MEGA 16/25/3 1700KV swinging a larger props than you are now, for a very good 4S use 6.5X6.5, 7X7, or 7X8 props (not with your ESC)......E-flight 60A pro-switch ESC is a well matched ESC at reasonable price of $85.

With the $ being weak against the Euro currency, things should be cheaper for you...I guess.

Do not buy CC60A, because CC80A is same size and weight and barely cost any more. {CC= Castle Creations}
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For now fly what you have and I suggest that you read Part 6 thread and this Part 7 thread.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6069877/tm.htm


Have fun,


Gryphon

Brazman

Gryphon,
I did consider 5 hinges though changed my mind for a few reasons. Main reason is that even with my little dremel drill press it's difficult to get the hinges perfectly centered and with 5 hinges you run the risk of a "wavey" elevon which won't move as freely. The hinges are robart 3/16 hinge point and are VERY strong and very unlikely to break. The old plane only used 1/8. Only reason I changed to 3/16 is that I ran out of 1/8. I only drill a 4mm hole in the balsa so the fit is very tight (3/16 is 4.8mm) and is VERY difficult to pull out even without epoxy. I may use gorilla glue for even more strength (it will expand into the notches in the hinge pins) though i'm not sure how to control expansion and stop it getting into the hinge itself. Maybe vaseline will be enough to protect the hinge, I will experiment on the off cuts.

Flightops,
My reply to Gryphon will answer your question about hinges. I personally wouldn't use huge surfaces like this on a lighter (read under 35oz or so) stryker and if you do use expo and very low throws. These size surfaces were twitchy (though managable) on my stryker at 46oz with stock CG although once it was nose heavy (1" forward from stock) at 53oz they were perfect. My throws were 12mm and I had 50% expo. This plane is going to be around an ounce heavier and up to 4 oz heavier when I change the batteries.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

this may interest some of you, I saw someone else with this kinda setup, I made some small winglets which offer plenty of stability, the rolls are more axial and I cut and sanded the old mounts off which reduced drag...I dunno if its enough stability for a larger prop, cause I'm flying EDF but I think it would be ok...looks good to, I ordered a new motor which should put my plane in the 70-80mph range on a 3S pack...

smoothound

Gryphon,

Thanks for all that info, I will look into it all in the near future I expect, you know what its like

I will probably go with the Medusa option for a new motor.

I have started hollowing out my battery bay because I was having to load some lead on the tail to balance my current packs. I need to remove the CF rod I have running nose to tail now to allow the battery to sit lower as it needs to sit further back now.

I'm still unsure how I should go about making up strength lost when I removed the bulkheads in the battery/rx/ESC bays? [sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]

Off to read thread 6 as per your link now

Gryphon

smoothound,

PM sent

See part 6 page 1 post #20 and see same mod that I've been doing on my planes...for example same thread (part 6) page 5, pic #4, #6(post #124).
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6069877/tm.htm

Mark tubes 9" long and twist as you go in....sharpen the tip first. 0.210" OD hollow C.F. tube after 9" mark is reached then cut flush.

If you precut tube, you will not have a handle to twist as you push in.

****BE VERY CAREFUL OF YOUR ANGLE IN ALL DIRECTIONS….take your time.

Run a couple of strip of tape under center of fuse, from front to rear (make them over lap ½” ).


Gryphon

smoothound

Of the 2 mega motors and the Medusa which is the most versatile or are they all pretty much the same? I'm assuming it is a lot easier to stay with 4s than start messing with anything else?

BubbleGum

Hi Flightops. I have a JR SX600. It is pretty good quality for being a bottom-of-the-line transmitter. It has just the basic; 10 model memory, dual rates, but no mixing or anything special. I had glitching issues until I mounted the rx off to the side in the wing, away from all the electronics. It is much better then the parkzone tx and retail for the JR is usually around $140. So you got a good deal.

I have been having a lot of issues with the standard receiver, RS6UL I think is the model number.

~Bub

afpe45

Vertical3-D,
what size and make edf are you using, do you have a more detailedpicture of the mount.

afpe45.

snooken

Smoothound,

To add strenght to the battery area after doing all the cutting, I took 3 pieces of c.f. and ran it across top of the area. I first placed all my electronics and battery inside bay and marked where i would put the c.f. . Cut the channel and epoxy them in. Just make sure you put them somewhere so you can remove battery. This worked great for me.

Hope this helps.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

afpe45 I am using an XF fan, its 56mm, the mount I am using is the one that comes with the accessory kit they sell for the fan which is where the white plastic nacel came from, then I made a cone from a tea bottle to compress the thrust a little more which made a big difference in performance, the mount screws one a square hardwood block thats maybe 1/2"x1/2"x4" long, so I cut the wire slot all the way to the back of the fuse then just sat it in there to mock it up and get it straight, then I shimmed it and put it in with gorilla glue cause it expands so it filled all the little gaps and now is super strong and I can remove it with two screws...very clean factory looking finish...the EDF unit minus the motor was under 30 bucks shipped, it has an ammo 20-40-3500kv motor now, and Im installing a 4500kv littlescreamers "jetscreamer" outrunner motor later this week...so it should be pretty fast after that, its only doing about 40mph now in level flight but should make an honest 70mph with the new motor, so on a 4S it would approach 100mph but I dont need anything that fast, it flies well enough now, I just want more speed...

Stryker_Viking

Vertical3-D

I like the looks with those winglets, looks very cool...

That speed doesn't sound right to me, I had same fan with a less powerful motor and I am sure it was much faster...
Can't remember if Gryphon did a radar reading on mine though...

How is it balanced???

Drag is that little EDF’s worse enemy.

Did you check so you are not flying around with a bit of elevator engaged to keep it level?
Bottom of control surfaces should be level/in line with the bottom of the wing to minimize drag.

It also looks to me as the fan is not aligned and is making the plane turn slightly left forcing a trim to compensate for that = drag…

Last word of advice to prevent you from frying motors as I did (twice); After landing, let the motor run on low speed for 60 seconds or so to cool down…

Stryker_Viking

Stryker_Viking

Hey smoothound

You DO NOT need to add weight to balance your bird, and you should avoid it as it will make your plane slower…

Options:
1/ Move motor forward, there is no limit there really, but as a general rule of thumb – concentrate weight as much as possible…
2/ Battery compartment can be enlarged significantly, more then 2.5” of divider walls in the front can easily be removed giving you more then 6.5” total
3/ Other components (ESC etc.) can be moved forward as well as out into the wings.

I never experienced any problem with the structural integrity due to removing foam, and the CF rods front to rear still fits in the floor, even a thinned floor as in my case. Its still going to break if you crash (god forbid)

Gryphon can answer the Mega/Medusa motor question for you, but I think the Medusa can handle higher Amps…
THIS COMMENT IS BASED ON THE MEGA 16/15/ SERIES COMPARED TO MEDUSA 028-040- SERIES, TWO DIFFERENT SIZED MOTORS.

Stryker_Viking

afpe45

Vertical3-D,
thanks for that,
do you have a link for the xf fan and necell, and the little screamer motor,
I am in the uk but should be able to get them shipped as gift for customs
afpe45.

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

[link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ductfan.htm]XF fan[/link] fan and nacel are on that page [link=http://www.hobby-lobby.com/littlescreamers.htm]motor[/link] is on that page and its the only one with the adapter on it...SV thanks for the tips, cooling and balance wise, theres two little indents in the hand hold cutouts which I am assuming are the balance point, if so its balanced slightly nose heavy on a high speed pass it flys nice and leve hands off, elevons are level or real close to it...it may be faster the 40mph is just a guess...flys nice though, strykers fly nicely inverted, I usually make a bunch of inverted passes each flight and invert to invert meneuvers...has plenty of power for all that stuff, but I fly the whole pack wide open, so thats what motivated the purchase of the little screamer motor, I should pick up around 8000RPM from the swap so it should be pretty noticable...

thetrums

My Feedback: (22)

my new florida strker slopoke

thetrums

My Feedback: (22)

what prop is best for my stryker with TP 2200 14.8v mega 16/15/4 and phoenix 35 ese? I used a 5x5 and it ran great but choppedprop recommended the 5.5 x4.5 to try, any sugestions?