Gryphon

VFA-13 SCREAMER,<o></o>

I'll let others talk about prop balancing.<o></o>

Ihave heard that some prop adapters have problems…usually the cheap stuff.


So my question would be this:
Are you using the same prop adapter on both props, or are you using 2 different prop adapters?


If using 2 different prop adapters see if the other one will help make the problem go away.<o></o>

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Ozzymoose,<o></o>

<o></o>

Your receiver:<o></o>

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/berg_ms4l.html<o></o>

<o></o>

Its manual:<o></o>

http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/berg_4L_user_guide.pdf<o></o>

<o></o>

<o></o>

On top of the manual it says: “USE ONLY A BERG CRYSTAL FOR BEST PERFORMANCE”<o></o>

<o></o>

Have you installed a crystal?<o></o>

<o></o>

Is your trans and receiver on same Ch?<o></o>

<o></o>

Have you followed the owner’s manual instructions?<o></o>

<o></o>

Is there any response from setup/any Ch?<o></o>

<o></o>

Since manual says:<o></o>

Upon power-up of the receiver, it goes into a “learning cycle” for about one second. During this period, it learns the characteristics of your transmitter including shift polarity, number of channels and frame timing. After this ‘boot up’ period, it will only listen to your type of transmitter. Booting up your home computer or laptop takes several minutes. Booting up the computer inside your receiver takes only a second or so.<o></o>

<o></o>

Then it should work with stock trans and its (trans) positive shift or negative shift will not prevent you from using this receiver.<o></o>

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________________________________________________<o ></o>

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nova50073,<o></o>

<o></o>

I’ll send you a PM.<o></o>

<o></o>

<o></o>

Later,<o></o>

<o></o>

Gryphon

jaime.mi

here are my first 3 steps

Gryphon

jaimie.mi,

Remind me of the following please:


1) What sort of speeds are you after in level flight?

2) what about elevons? Stock or balsa?

3) Just C.F. and no fiberglass, right?


Gryphon

jaime.mi

The first picture is the first step. Carbon fiber reinforcement 4.8 mm variety, 200 grit sanding all over in an effort to remove all the injection mold marks and smooth out the entire airframe. Third picture is the top view of step one. I mentioned not using the Wow planes mix for this build, but after studying their procedure in detail, I decided to use their first step to smooth out  the airframe.
We are talking about a 1 to 1 mixture of Durhams Water Putty and light weight spakle. You then add about 4 spoonfulls of water (better to do 1 at a time, and do not use DAP brand it does not dissolve in water) you are looking for the consistency of household paint. A foam brush will not leave brush strokes, and only a thin coat is added. Before painting the mixture on the the airframe, I use the light weighgt spakle to fill out gaps like the nose cone, the factory hinge holes and make sure the entire surface was smooth. 45 minutes later the spakle was dry and I painted the mixture to fill in and smooth out the spakle. Picture 2 shows the top view before another second coat all around tomorrow morning.

Fly fast, take chances...

jaime.mi

I already purchased my balsa elevons I will probably give them an epoxy bath and cover the bottom with aircraft plywood, as per your previous threads. For now I will only use CF, and no fiberglass. I am using extreme tape on the TE of the elevons, and being totally crazy about the no gap CA hinge .
 If I can do 120 (Medusa...) I will be tickled... I am totally looking forward, to the day my old stock motor goes out in smoke... Maybe it will go out gracefully on a steep climb with a trail of smoke!

Fly fast! take chances...

Dc2LightTech

Balance issue solved:

I cut the excess motor shaft and prop adapter off[X(]

Gryphon

joe1 ,

I want to wish you my very best on your pending maiden flight.

Let us know how it goes/went on1st page of Part 8 along with any pics.


For therecord; my planes are always the ugliest and most beat up....LOL.
Personally Itake performance over looks any day, but that is just on my own planes.
My first car had (2) 4 barrel carbs sticking through the hood and was spray painted primer black out ofregular spraycans. Ibought it that way when Iwas 16.

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nova50073,

Little bit of reading on Co-pilot:
http://www.fmadirect.com/detail.htm?item=1489&section=20

If we meet anytime after this weekend, I will let you fly my F-27B on 3S so you can see what the Co-pilot acts like and then Iwill give you one of my spare Co-pilots to try out on your Stryker for a few weeks.


Later,

Gryphon

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Thank You Gryphon, I will take a couple pictures of it before maiden flight, but I don't have a video camera and do not know anyone either.
Might have my bud take a couple in the air if he can find it :=}

moparmyway

To all.............

IThas finally happened !!!

Traditionally after 100 pages or so, we start a new thread. Part 8 has begun with Chippedprops blessings. In a short while we will close this thread and lock it down. Please use the following link for easy access to Part 8.

We invite everyone to "let the mayham begin !!"

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...tm.htm#8867370

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Hello everyone... this should be my last post here on #7 as we go to # 8..... Good luck to all and a special shout out to Moparmyway... You have been great helping so many of us here on #7 and now we will all be looking forward to #8 and your leadership as we develope our own Dark Side Strykers...

One last question here on #7.... When setting up the motor and prop on a Stryker... Which side of the prop faces backward?( as you look at theprop from the spinner ) ....I have just proped my new upgraded Model B Stryker and I have the prop in the traditional way as you would any prop on a front facing engine... Is that correct?

Good luck to all and see you soon on Part 8...

Gryphon

thetrums

My Feedback: (22)

Hey chippedprop! You have helped mi in the past with my Medusa 2200KV setup. I want to go faster now. I have a Pheonix 80 esc. now, what motor , battery and prop should I run for 120-130-ish

Flisms

LEOIII

Ihave a Dx6i transmitter that the evevator trim button just let go on me last night luckly while I was on the Phoenix an not out flying one of my planes. The bind switch had broken on it a few weeks ago but I replaced it with the one off my Stryker trasnmitter since now Im more into the micro birds. Does any one know if its worth getting both of the problems repaired (plus shipping from Florida) plus are they always that slow in repair time(3 weeks?) I would hate to send it out and find out for a few more bucks I could just get a new one and keep this one for parts and the simulator. I was thinking of getting the Dx7 since I'm up to 9 on the Dx6i and was thinking of converting the Stryker over to Spectrum.

Gryphon

Leo III,

This Dark side Stryker Part 7 thread was closed 1 1/2 years ago (we thought it was locked down already).



Please copy and paste your question on the part 9 thread (see link below) :


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10026168/tm.htm



Thanks,

Gryphon