Spid

Ya, Stryker_Viking is right. I just provided one example of a better motor choice for the Stryker than the one you listed from that site F-15. There are several motors available that would work. Ex. Eflite Series 6 2700Kv, the Mega 16/15/3 or 4, the Mega 16/25/3 or 2, Dons Wicked Outrunner 2700Kv, etc...

I completely agree with the battery comments, you really need to be looking in the 20-25C 2000-3300Mah ranges. because you will be pulling 40-50amps.

Personally, I like the Mega's as they consistantly deliver more than what they are rated for. I know Don's Wicked holds up to that much amperage as well. I can not say that the motor I posted (rated at 35A) will hold up to 45-50amps load for long. It may, it may not. Some motors can take an incredible amount of "abuse" (for lack of a better word) handling noticibly more amps than what it is rated for, others might go up in a puff of smoke after a few flights.

I'm with Chippedprop, I go with quality and if that is tied to a name that consistently delivers, well then that is just that, a name. Just go with what the guys on here recommend, they will not stear you wrong my friend and you will have yourself a great plane that will put a smile on your face. In the end, that is all that matters.

Tow Cobra

Hi guys,

Was flying my stryker this weekend and it went in when I lost elevon control.

Stryker has stock airframe (reinforced with Extreme tape), mega 16/25/3, Evo25 2500 18.5V battery, 25C continuous 50C burst, 6x5.5 prop, CC80 with external BEC. Radio is DX7 and AR6100.

She has flown well with 3s, 4s, and the 5s above but when I was doing a high speed pass coming from a dive and she was really cooking over 100mph, I had a lock out of the elevons and couldn't bring her up. I was able to cut throttle but she just went in and broke off the nose and motor mount (electronics survived) and everything electronic worked perfectly when I picked her up.

Any ideas what happened. Did I over amp the battery and cause the receiver to reset, losing elevon control (that's all I can think of).

Any help appreciated (this radio and other AR6100's are working fine for me on other models).

Thanks in advance,

Tow

f-15fighter

Ok thanks guys for all the info. and I will just start saving until can afford the Good Quality Parts! So to help me get a better idea of how much to save, can you guys/girls recommend to me the parts that you would put into YOUR stryker? Because I know if its good enough to be in your plane then I know its good enough to be in mine. Hopefully the price will not blow me away[X(].

Thanks to ALLLL for the Great Help!!

-Caleb

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Well late to the dance I see.

Chipped or should I say Lord Prop, congrats(?) on becoming the next Elder. And lot's of luck with dealing with the duties. You I know, know the Stryker well, and I'm glad to see the next evolving of the forum is in good hands.

Good to see you're going back to the roots of the Stryker too. Sometimes we can tend to loose those not ready to go Dark Side with the info overload of the high power versions.

Remember to "pay it forward", we all had help learning our craft, and teaching those who come after us, is a very cheap payment for all we learned, and it helps promote the addiction.

Brad


p.s. Tow Cobra, if you are sure it wasn't a glitch that took out your bird, you may have just found one of the hazards of going Dark on a stock set up. At a high enough speed, you can overload the stock servos. The stress trying to move the elevons can sometimes be more then the servos can overcome, and you have seen the results. Or if you are using the stock elevons, they can actually fail in high stress situations. The servo is operating them but they will give/flex enough that they become ineffective.

Speeddriven

Glacier Girl,

Thanks for the info.Looks like 81mgs,and wooden elevons are the only way to go to push the limits.

Stryker_Viking

Tow Cobra

In addition to what Glacier Girl already mentioned. I am afraid that you might have experienced the AR6100 glitch...
See [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794578]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794578[/link] that discuss cause and remedies.

Also; I nowadays always use balsa elevons reinforced with one layer of thin plywood + stronger horns, rods & clevis + Hitec-81MG (metal gear) as the stock servos will strip the gears in midflight, and that hurts...

Styker_Viking

LT-40

My Feedback: (2)

Hey speeddriven!

Sorry for the confusion over the phone. I checked my paypal, and I received payment from you so I will get that motor sent out to you asap. Let me know if you have any questions either here or through a PM or an e-mail.

Thanks,

LT

chippedprop

Here you go- figure 250 to 300 $ if you go to $400 you can upgrade motor and ESC-81's ARE THE STANDARD
Recap
motor 60-80 $
ESC 60-80 $
81's 25 $ each x2 50$
3cell 2500 20c lipo 70-80 $
Fell free to post or pm if more details needed

chippedprop

Glacier
I know it's a scarey thing to see a newby like me thrown under the bus
I'm still just a simple man trying to do an impossible job but hey at least I'm smiling

Guys if you ever want a great read look at the earlier thread with Glacier and CadetmanI'm surprised it wasn't a Broadway hit !!!
But thanks and I will follow the suggestions.

Oh and don't made yourself a stranger tell jeeves HEY
CP

Speeddriven

LT,
Thanks and looking foward to receiving the mega.

Hope to see you flying again soon.

Gryphon

Stryker_Viking,

I do recall, Glacier Girl warning us about the AR6100.

Personally I will not recommend any receivers other than AR6200 or AR7000 period. And I run mine on 6V BEC.

I do no remember ever hearing about issues with stock control horns that bolt onto the elevons....heard about everything else failing though.

_______________________

Tow Cobra,

Sorry to hear about your crash. I thought you were flying Funjet these days, not sure why I thought that.


You didn't give us enough description.

The stock control surfaces don't just quit working due to excessive flex they will have sort of response (good or bad, little or etc...).

Let’s assume you didn't strip both servos in the same second.

If 1 servo stripped then you would see the bird change course and not go in a straight line.

Your battery seems to be a quality battery and 6X5.5 is not a Monster prop for your application, so I don't believe you had any voltage ripple type things going on.


***Did you ever setup failsafe or re-bind your receiver as the manual states? (Should normally turn off throttle in the event of signal loss)

__________________________________________________ ________

From the CC Phoenix ESC owner's manual

Loss of Signal:

“The Phoenix will stop the motor as a safety
feature when the throttle signal is lost or
corrupt. Moving the throttle to the brake
position for two seconds may be required to
rearm the motor.�

http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...User_Guide.pdf (Read page 2, upper right corner)

__________________________________________________ _________

You may have lost signal due to receiver or BEC issues and then the ESC shut the motor off on its own due to the reason above.

What did you have for a BEC? Brand and amp rating, and where was it installed? Could the battery move around and pull on the BEC connector that goes into receiver? Was BEC secured? Did it get any air to keep it from possible over heat (not common problem)?

I suggest that you get a better BEC and maybe set it to run on 6V.

We were warned about AR6100 losing signal at close range.

CC Universal BEC comes preset at 5.1V and can be changed from 4.8V to 9V. I would set it at 6V for my piece of mind for Spektrum receivers. You'll need Castle link from CC to change settings on ESC and UBEC, $25. Castle link is easy to install and use, for use with PC computers only.

People may consider sending out the receiver and BEC for warranty or repair or inspection. It may not be worth paying to repair BEC, but if they see something wrong with it, then you may know what caused your problem. Other factors as far as where you have to ship to may affect your decision. Free inspection could be nice, or possible discount towards replacement or upgrade.....not sure.

Turnaround times may be from 2 weeks to a month, Don't delay your decision or action.

Good luck,

Gryphon

Gryphon

Guys, a friend just sent me this link. He has not bought it yet.


120A ESC, Check out the wireless programming capabilities.

Also good for 6S without needing UBEC because it's BEC is switching type like Hyperion and E-flight.


http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...roducts_id=310


What are your comments on Scorpion ESCs, and good or bad comments? What have you heard in the past?



Gryphon

Speeddriven

Gryphon,

That might be the esc for me.Looks like this company has all of our interests in mind.A program card with it?beat that!

Thanks for the link Gryphon

Brazman

Looks good Gryph. No mention of burst capacity though and it is a little more expensive than a CC125 although you could overlook that for the built in UBEC.

Speeddriven

Is ther a weight difference between the castle 80 and the Scorpion 120 ESC?

f-15fighter

Will this ESC work even though I plan on using one battery instead of two which its made for?

Thanks,
F-15

chippedprop

this is a good basic brand make sure you don't run 4cells on this - it says you can -I did 2x and it wasn't long until it died but I have used these for years without any issues

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKSY6&P=0
This is for a single pack- Tower also makes a ESC for a dual pack system- if I put in the dual beforesorry should be this one
You can go down 1 size on the ESC -but you'll be pushing it if you prop up I always buy one size up after I figure the max amps I can pull-that way you safe(r) from ESC failure............Unless you get a challenge to race as I did and run a 4 cell with a 6x5.5 prop ran great and I won but 2-3 weeks later big smash down at 60+mph...Toasted ESC
[:@]
[:@][:@][:@][:@]

Tow Cobra

Thanks for the info, guys.

I am using HS65MG's. They are not stripped. After I picked up the plane, everything electronic worked perfectly (other than the fact that things were in pieces). I am using the CC 10amp BEC.

I think there was a lockout issue with the AR6100 receiver. I do have the castle link so I think I will increase the BEC to 6V which maybe will give me some leeway in voltage before another lockout.

Thanks again,

tow

p.s. Gryphon, I am also flying a funjet. I finally have that plane flying well. The stryker is definitely easier to fly....kind of flies exactly where you point it which is nice. The funjet is a little twitchier.

king paul

hi for every one with a plane ! I HADE AR6100 FOR OVER AYEAR IT LOCKED UP SOME MANY TIMES CHANGED SPEED CONTROLL STILL LOCKED UP BATTERY SAME CONECTORS SAME AND EVERY TIME HADE TO FIX MY PLANE FINALLY GRYPHON MADE ME BUY AR7000 ! NOW WHEN I CRASH ITS BECAUSE I MADE A BO BOO KING PAUL

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

There is a quick fix for the DX receiver voltage drop problem. Was in this months issue of Sport R/C Flyer mag, and it's approved by JR/Spektrum.

Install a 4700uf/10volt capacitor in one of the empty slots in the rx. Solder the capacitor to an old servo lead, one wire to the positive terminal, and one to the negative terminal. Signal wire is not used.

The capacitor gets charged up when the system is turned on, and if the rx gets a voltage drop, the capacitor unloads to keep the voltage even, and no more problem.

f-15fighter

Sorry CP i forgot to post the link, lol. Here was the ESC I was talking about [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230250741672&ssPageName=ADME:B:BCA:US:1123]ESC[/link] will it work with only one battery?

Thanks,
F-15

chippedprop

f-15
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:B:BCA:US:1123
I think it will you will have to make jumper using a deans connecter to jump across the other battery plug in lead.
Place on the connector with the 2 back wires so when you plug up the battery your using the red and black wired connection on the ESC
If your not planning on using dual packs then don't get it. I would Strongly suggest you have someone with electrical background - wire and check current path to make sure you don't go BOOM !!!
CP

Stryker_Viking

For you with AR6100 Receivers

Some enterprising buisnessman has already got this for sale if you want to make it easy on your self:

Spektrum Voltage Protector SPM1600

Key Features
For DSM system
Prevents voltage drops to receiver
Plugs into any open channel slot
Overview
Spektrum's new Voltage Protector prevents a DSMâ„¢ receiver's voltage from dropping below the proper operating level in lower voltage applications such as 4-cell 1/12 carpet racers. Installation is as simple as plugging it into an open channel slot on the receiver unit. [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPM1600](link)[/link]

This official Spectrum solution to this problem will cost you $6:00:

I made the following notes after my research:
Cause of problem seem to be too that heavy servo loads causing unexpected tricks to the RX chips...
Receiver failure is a secondary effect to a BEC failure a lot of the time caused by inefficient servos simply overloading the BEC.

Also, chech your firmware, should be v1.2 or higher...

Stryker_Viking

critterhunter

Self-imposed banishment from the Dark Side thread is over as promised (threatend ). Glad to see the thread is thriving and congrats to Chippedprop on becoming an Elder. Looks like Gryphon made a wise choice, and that you appear to be open to much of what I considered to be a main (but not only) theme of the original Dark Side threads...as fast possible as cheap as possible.

Much of my attention over the past several months has been taken up by an HVAC trade school I've been attending, as well as building homemade foamies via hot wiring, but the Stryker is still my favorite plane. In fact, it's the only pre-made plane body I'll buy from a store. While I can hot wire out platforms for pennies, I'm more than willing to pay $20 for this great design made from the fantastic Z-Foam. This plane simply builds fast and easy, has a great range of flying ability, and of course can take some nasty hits.

A few tid bits to throw into the current questions/answers going on...

I do just about all my shopping now from Hobby City (formerly United Hobbies) as the prices and wide selection of product just can't be beat. True, they are overseas, but shipping is only around $10-$12 when you select the shipping method one down from default. I'm finding I get things in 3 to 5 business days even with this cheaper shipping. Pretty darn fast. Only hold up these days comes from out of stock items. Make sure it's in stock before adding it to the cart.

EDFs: HTX 2835 3900 k/v motor ($15 or $19?), combined with the 2.5" EDF from ($19) makes a killer (and very cheap) EDF platform. It'll produce about 23 to 27 ounces of thrust at somewhere around 29 to 33 amps or so. This is a clone of a better EDF, so it produces slightly more thrust than the 2.68" (a clone of a cheaper EDF) unit using the same motor. Consistent EDF info is hard to come by but I did enough digging to find various comparisons of EDFs in the 2 to 3" range from them. I wanted best performance on a 3 cell and the above is it.

Cheap Motors: Many to choose from. Most people who want good speed and vertical on a Stryker opt for an outrunner in the 1700 to roughly 2200 k/v range. There are exceptions. For instance, if speed is primary then you might consider an inrunner. In fact, the above 2835 line of motors are a hot item on Strykers, probably in the 2700+ k/v range. Check out some of the mini-reviews at the bottom of the various k/v models of this motor. More than a few guys running them on the Stryker.

ESCs: I've had great luck with the Tower Pro 30 ampers for $14. They may not be the most efficient but they are just about the cheapest. If you want even cheaper they now carry Simple (Suppos?) ESCs for even less, like $9 for a 30a.

Servos: You can get buy with the HXT900 servos. Somewhere between the HS55 and HS81. A bit weaker for my brushless Stryker tastes but at $4 a pop it's worth a try. I love these servos for just about all my foamie builds these days. I use HS81s in the Stryker. Non-MG but I've only stripped them on some real bad wrecks. Remember that supply voltage to the servo also determines it's speed and torque. If you are having problems then perhaps you need an external BEC to beef up the power to them.

All for now. Good luck on the new thread...

Gryphon

Who is going to meet us @ Joe Nall fly in in SC?

Send PM or post.


Gryphon