Need help with electrics!
#51
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From: Texarkana,
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ORIGINAL: Gordo-Outlaw
Ah, good point. My wife tells me there are 2 types of hot glue, one is cooler for kids. Which are you guys useing?
And is anyone really using flaperons or anything that requires the 2 wing servos be on 2 channels? I'm thinking about a 4 channel rx. For that matter, do we need to have 2 wing servos at all?
Ah, good point. My wife tells me there are 2 types of hot glue, one is cooler for kids. Which are you guys useing?
And is anyone really using flaperons or anything that requires the 2 wing servos be on 2 channels? I'm thinking about a 4 channel rx. For that matter, do we need to have 2 wing servos at all?
Hey Gordo! I went to Lowe's and bought a hot glue gun that has a high and a low setting and some dual temp glue sticks. I used the low setting and it worked just fine. As for the rest of the plane, I used foam safe CA.
My E-Yak only uses one aileron servo, so that leaves out flaperons. I haven't flown it yet, but am getting close!
I'll let you know how it turns out!
#52
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From: Texarkana,
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Finally flew the Yak for the first time last night. It was awesome! I made a flight last night, and several short flights today before I had to recharge the battery. Ater the battery was charged, I made another flight, then when I tried to take off for the next one the motor burned up! [:@] I burned up a brand new Razor 350 motor on the second charge! The only thing that I can think of that would cause it would be if I messed up something in the gearbox after a few bumps. I was running a Razor 350, GWS 6 to 1 gearbox, E-tec 1300 3S lipo, and Castle Creations Phoenix 25 ESC. Does anyone see anything wrong with anything here? I'm going to order another motor and gearbox, but don't want to burn it up also.
#53
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From: Tulsa, OK,
Dude, that's not right. That should be a waranty replacement, even if the gear box got beat up that shouldn't bother the motor! I hope they treat you right!
For next weekend, I have annother motor you can use for the SMALL flyin.
For next weekend, I have annother motor you can use for the SMALL flyin.
#54
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From: Pampa, TX
Are you sure it's the motor?? There is not much that can burn up in a brushless motor. Either a winding burned up or the magnets got hot. Check each wire against the other two and see if one is open or shorted (a short might be hard to tell, the windings have a low resistance anyway, but you might see a difference if it's shorted), and the 350 has a definite magnet "bump" to it when you spin it. I'd be more inclined to think the speed controller bought the farm.
#55
Hot glue
I tred it but it drys too fast for me don't have enough time to get things in place Foam CA is bad brittle I guess im gonna go back to the expoy seems to work the best for me and save the 10$ an oz. ca for repairs at the field
I tred it but it drys too fast for me don't have enough time to get things in place Foam CA is bad brittle I guess im gonna go back to the expoy seems to work the best for me and save the 10$ an oz. ca for repairs at the field
#56
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From: Texarkana,
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ORIGINAL: ChuckAuger
Are you sure it's the motor?? There is not much that can burn up in a brushless motor. Either a winding burned up or the magnets got hot. Check each wire against the other two and see if one is open or shorted (a short might be hard to tell, the windings have a low resistance anyway, but you might see a difference if it's shorted), and the 350 has a definite magnet "bump" to it when you spin it. I'd be more inclined to think the speed controller bought the farm.
Are you sure it's the motor?? There is not much that can burn up in a brushless motor. Either a winding burned up or the magnets got hot. Check each wire against the other two and see if one is open or shorted (a short might be hard to tell, the windings have a low resistance anyway, but you might see a difference if it's shorted), and the 350 has a definite magnet "bump" to it when you spin it. I'd be more inclined to think the speed controller bought the farm.
I'm not 100% sure about any of it. Everything was working except the motor. It started out ok, but quickly lost power, and it even smelled like it was burned. We picked it up and tried it again, but it finally just quit. It hadn't been run in over an hour, so I don't know how it the magnets could have gotten hot. I'll try it again in a little bit to see if it does anything different. What would cause the winding to burn up? Would the ESC still work on everything else if it burned up? What do you mean check each wire against the other?
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From: Pampa, TX
Did the motor feel hot when it landed?? Was the smell definitely from the motor or the ESC?? Use a digital ohm meter (I kinda forget everybody might not have one laying around..) to check the winding wires.
But if you smelled burning stuff, something is not right. I'd still be more inclined to think it was the ESC..they have some fragile little bits in them compared to a solid piece of wire in a motor. If nothing else, if the motor did burn up first, it prolly took the ESC with it. But if the ESC itself fried, your motor prolly survived.
I wouldn't try to run any of it if it's smelling burned.
But if you smelled burning stuff, something is not right. I'd still be more inclined to think it was the ESC..they have some fragile little bits in them compared to a solid piece of wire in a motor. If nothing else, if the motor did burn up first, it prolly took the ESC with it. But if the ESC itself fried, your motor prolly survived.
I wouldn't try to run any of it if it's smelling burned.
#58
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From: Texarkana,
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ORIGINAL: ChuckAuger
Did the motor feel hot when it landed?? Was the smell definitely from the motor or the ESC?? Use a digital ohm meter (I kinda forget everybody might not have one laying around..) to check the winding wires.
But if you smelled burning stuff, something is not right. I'd still be more inclined to think it was the ESC..they have some fragile little bits in them compared to a solid piece of wire in a motor. If nothing else, if the motor did burn up first, it prolly took the ESC with it. But if the ESC itself fried, your motor prolly survived.
I wouldn't try to run any of it if it's smelling burned.
Did the motor feel hot when it landed?? Was the smell definitely from the motor or the ESC?? Use a digital ohm meter (I kinda forget everybody might not have one laying around..) to check the winding wires.
But if you smelled burning stuff, something is not right. I'd still be more inclined to think it was the ESC..they have some fragile little bits in them compared to a solid piece of wire in a motor. If nothing else, if the motor did burn up first, it prolly took the ESC with it. But if the ESC itself fried, your motor prolly survived.
I wouldn't try to run any of it if it's smelling burned.
The motor was VERY hot. I wonder what would cause it to fry like that? I can order another motor and gearbox, but it won't do me any good if the ESC is burned up. What the heck do I do now? Is there any way to test the ESC without hooking it up to a motor? I hate to buy ALL ew stuff, especially since I only got around 20 minutes of flight time out of it. I was starting to like electrics, but this sure is making glows look better all the time! ARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!! [>:][:@][
]
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From: Pampa, TX
Oh, well if the motor was that hot, it sure might be fried. I don't know anyway to check an ESC without a motor.. And I don't know what would cause one to get that hot.. That's a strange one. You weren't flying around at full throttle or anything, were you?? The D gear and 12X6 prop is a pretty good load on a 350, but in 3D mode you just need full power now and again. Just throwing stuff out there..
#61
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From: Texarkana,
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ORIGINAL: ChuckAuger
Oh, well if the motor was that hot, it sure might be fried. I don't know anyway to check an ESC without a motor.. And I don't know what would cause one to get that hot.. That's a strange one. You weren't flying around at full throttle or anything, were you?? The D gear and 12X6 prop is a pretty good load on a 350, but in 3D mode you just need full power now and again. Just throwing stuff out there..
Oh, well if the motor was that hot, it sure might be fried. I don't know anyway to check an ESC without a motor.. And I don't know what would cause one to get that hot.. That's a strange one. You weren't flying around at full throttle or anything, were you?? The D gear and 12X6 prop is a pretty good load on a 350, but in 3D mode you just need full power now and again. Just throwing stuff out there..
I used full throttle in verticle a couple of times just for giggles, but never for more than a second or two. You couldn't turn the motor by hand then, but you can now. I flew it 3D style, mostly hovering, harriers, and elevators. I surely didn't abuse it.
#63
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From: Texarkana,
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OK, I just tried it again and here is what it is doing. When you throttle up, the motor just knocks and shakes like it wants to run, but it won't (I remember now that this is what it was doing, not binding. The mind is getting feeble!
) It acts to me like the ESC is telling it what to do, but the motor can't deliver. I think that the motor is fried, but I don't have a meter to check it with. Do you think that it would be safe to try another motor on it? Could I have programmed something in the ESC that would have fried my motor? I don't think that I programmed anything in that would have done this, but you never know!
) It acts to me like the ESC is telling it what to do, but the motor can't deliver. I think that the motor is fried, but I don't have a meter to check it with. Do you think that it would be safe to try another motor on it? Could I have programmed something in the ESC that would have fried my motor? I don't think that I programmed anything in that would have done this, but you never know!
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From: Pampa, TX
Well, shaking is usually the ESC but an open winding could do it, too. A bad connection between motor and ESC will make it do that, as well. The last time I had a motor do that, it was the ESC (Razor 350 FWIW).
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From: Nashville, TN
Just a thought here, but if the motor is trying to start, but can't do it, it may be a bad connection somewhere........and possibly the heat hosed one of your solder joints. These motors are basically 3 phase AC motors, and need a very solid solder joint to function properly. Others have had problems with the motor starting well with bad connections. It gets confused easily.
I wouldn't panic just yet. Could be a simple solution to the problems. Like Chuck said, first check your windings with a meter, someone near you should have one, then make sure your solder joints are perfect.
Hard to diagnose without seeing it, but we will try... hehe
I wouldn't panic just yet. Could be a simple solution to the problems. Like Chuck said, first check your windings with a meter, someone near you should have one, then make sure your solder joints are perfect.
Hard to diagnose without seeing it, but we will try... hehe
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From: Texarkana,
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How did you discover that your ESC was bad? Do I have to burn up another motor to find out if it is bad or not? This is starting to get discouraging!
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From: Texarkana,
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OK guys, I've slept since last night and am a little more civil!
I've calmed down, and am ready to try this again! A friend is going to bring his ohm meter to work tomorrow so that I can test the motor. I'm going to try to get another motor before this weekend so I can take this thing to SMALL in Little Rock. It was entirely too much fun not to try again! It was really cool to be able to fly in my backyard! Thanks for your help Chuck! I'll keep you posted.
I've calmed down, and am ready to try this again! A friend is going to bring his ohm meter to work tomorrow so that I can test the motor. I'm going to try to get another motor before this weekend so I can take this thing to SMALL in Little Rock. It was entirely too much fun not to try again! It was really cool to be able to fly in my backyard! Thanks for your help Chuck! I'll keep you posted.
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From: Pampa, TX
It's a shame you don't know somebody close by with another motor/ESC. If the motor got that hot, it might have just melted the varnish off the magnet wire, or damaged the magnets, and an ohm meter might not tell you much. If the ESC if fried, there really isn't any way to check its operation.




