Desert Toad

I just finished gluing my wing and tail on, while do other work around the yard and I know noticed the wing isn't at a perfect 90 degrees to the fuse. But the epoxy has hardened - what to do? Just trim it with some aileron when I fly, or will this require some major surgery?

thanks,

DT

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

what are the 2 measurement differences?

exeter_acres

My Feedback: (2)

go fly


My Katana was straight... but a dead stick while in a loooow hover took care of that! [:@](clunk was stuck in the top of the tank....)

while glueing everything together.. I measured and measured, and eyeballed and eyeballed... all looks straight..

when glue dried... Ooops... settled a bit.. so when you look down the fuse the wing and tail do not line up..
was I ticked? You bet!!....

Does the plane still fly GREAT... you bet!
If it is not too bad, I really wouldn't worry about it....

If this was an IMAC or Pattern plane, we would have an issue... but it ain't!

dbruening80

My Feedback: (1)

I had to remove a wing from an edge fuse a few days ago due to crash damage. If the tilt is pretty minor 90-95 degrees, I'd say live with it. If you want to remove the wing after it's glued, here's how I did it: Get yourself one of those cheap-o utility knives, (the ones that you can keep snapping off about a 1/4 inch piece of the blade once it dulls) Take the blade from the handle and wrap each end with about 1" of tape so you can hold it with both hands safely. Get the blade started between the fuse and the wing. Start working the blade back and forth and soon you'll have the wing detatched from the fuse. Jig the wing up so its at 90 degrees from the fuse and re-glue.

On a side note, unless you have an extremely tight fit between the wing and the fuse, epoxy is a poor choice to bond the two together. Polyurethane (PU) glue such as Pro Bond or Gorilla Glue are much better options IMO. P.U. glue will fill any gaps between the wing and fuse. Granted, you do have to keep an eye on it for the first hour or two to make sure it does not foam all over, but the bond is much stronger. If you do happen to miss some of the glue after it dries, it is pretty easy to remove from monokote and paint thinner or mineral spirits will cut dried PU glue.

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

It will probably be fine.... if it's 5 deg or less, you probably won't even notice it.... If it's more... might start affecting your knife edge flight and things like that....

I like to use some masking tape that forms a triangle between the fuse ant the wing tips to hold everything while it dries... Can't shift that way.

If you really want to take out the wing, I've used an old hacksaw blade before.. Work it into the joint, then work it around the wing...

Desert Toad

Hmm, all good info since this is my first profile and/or foam plane. I measured from the wing tip to the top of the "canopy" and I'm off3/8 of an inch, which would mean each side would need to move 3/16 to be perfect, I think I'll leave it for now, since cutting the wing out of a new airplane would hurt, and it would be a total pain.

Hoping to get my ST G-51 mounted for some flying this weekend.

thanks.

DT

dbruening80

My Feedback: (1)

If all you would have to move it is 3/16, just leave it.

Desert Toad

Cool, always helps to have a second opinion. Now to get my radio gear stuffed in her! Any hints or tips on the easiest way to run the servo wires through the fuse? And perhaps I need some tape one the extension connects? As I said before, it's my first profile - all my other planes have been bigger, faster warbirds and funfly types.

thanks again,

Jim

dbruening80

My Feedback: (1)

an old ny-rod tube works well to fish the wires through the fuse, you definately want to secure the connectors either with some tape or heat shrink

IowaSilvia

My Feedback: (97)

Another good thing about using poly glue: You can remove a wing from the fuse. easily by taking a piece of thin pull-pull cable, fishing it between the fuse and wing, then using a sawing action and pulling it all the way around the wing. It will cut right thru the glue. Sand both surfaces and reglue.

Spacey

I've built some pretty skew profiles in my lifetime and seriously it doesn't make the plane not fly at all. Like Paul said if the fuselage is way off you will start to notice it in knife edge and so on so keep that in mind for future. If you notice you're having some odd coupling issues then I would start with the skew fus. I've had the fuselages on in quite some funky ways and it didn't bug me at all so I wouldn't change it now. Just fly it and check it out.

Uncas

My Feedback: (1)

To get servo wires pulled I ran string through the fuse, then pulled the servo wires after it was assembled. Or another way might be to tie a small weight on the string, put the plane on its nose and drop it through.

Desert Toad

Hey gang!

I pulled my servo wires with a straightened coat hanger, but on the the plane - it was awesome! Flew it several times last weekend, hope to fly it again tomorrow.

Couldn't even tell the wing was put on so poorly, and it sure is fun to fly. I'm not very good at any 3-D stuff, but it will hover at less than 1/2 throttle with my ST 51.

What throw rates and computer settings are you guys using (dual rates, expo). The book just says at least 30% deflection, but I don't have the deflection meter to measure.

thanks,

DT

CJKling

My Feedback: (1)

I'm using approximately -70% expo (Futaba) on my profile (Goldberg Ex-treme 330), on all surfaces, and high rates are max. mechanical deflection.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

I use a nylon flex rod for pulling the servo wires through. Just tape the connectors to the end and slip them through. Works great.