Knife Push-Pull
12-31-2002, 04:10 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
I have just began building a Knife kit, and I want to build it with inside-the-fuselage push-pull elevator and rudder as desired by Morris. I have never built a push-pull profile before, and any info on exactly where and how to install the servos for the rudder and elevator would be appreciated. The instructions don't seem to be very helpful. Thanks!
12-31-2002, 04:14 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
These are pics from my Morris Hobbies Sledge. Not the same plane but servo mounting on a profile is basically the same model to model.
They should help you a bit.
They should help you a bit.
12-31-2002, 04:18 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
Ok I just realized that on the Knife there is alittle bit of a difference.
Your rudder and elevator servos will be on opposite sides of the fuse..
Your rudder and elevator servos will be on opposite sides of the fuse..
12-31-2002, 04:26 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
If I am seeing your pictures right, they indicate the top of the servos is on the bottom of the wing and the hatch covers on the top?
12-31-2002, 04:26 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
I built the knife last year, and I put the rudder and the elevator servos on the inboard part of the wing (one on each side of the fuselage) so that the servo arms barely touched the side of the fuselage. I have not yet had any problems with this setup yet.
12-31-2002, 04:28 AM
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Originally posted by Barnowl
If I am seeing your pictures right, they indicate the top of the servos is on the bottom of the wing and the hatch covers on the top?
If I am seeing your pictures right, they indicate the top of the servos is on the bottom of the wing and the hatch covers on the top?
It gives the servos a much sturdier mount then if they were mounted to the hatches ( if the hatches were on the bottom )
Some people do it that way..
12-31-2002, 04:32 AM
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Thats what the plans called for.
I though about doing it the other way but just decided to stick with the designers design.
It did make routing the pull pull cables easier though prior to sheeting as all but one enter and exit on the left side.
I though about doing it the other way but just decided to stick with the designers design.
It did make routing the pull pull cables easier though prior to sheeting as all but one enter and exit on the left side.
12-31-2002, 04:40 AM
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Wayne--In your pictures I guess I am missing something obvious, but don't the cables from the elevator interfere from the cables from the rudder?
Lee
Lee
12-31-2002, 04:45 AM
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No.
The entry points in the fuse are staggered a bit and on top of eachother. It works.
The knife will be easier as the elev and rudd servos are on opposite sides.
The entry points in the fuse are staggered a bit and on top of eachother. It works.
The knife will be easier as the elev and rudd servos are on opposite sides.
12-31-2002, 05:20 AM
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Knife Push-Pull
Here's a "real" Knife.
This is top of wing, looking down.
Aileron servos are outboard. Rudder and elevator are inboard, throttle is in the middle on the right side.
Spacing is determined by:
Rudder/elevator- leave enough room to clear the fuse with your servo arm
Ailerons- So the control horn on the plans lines up with your servo arm
Throttle- close to the inner as you can get without interfering with the pull-pull arm (throttle is push-pull)
This is top of wing, looking down.
Aileron servos are outboard. Rudder and elevator are inboard, throttle is in the middle on the right side.
Spacing is determined by:
Rudder/elevator- leave enough room to clear the fuse with your servo arm
Ailerons- So the control horn on the plans lines up with your servo arm
Throttle- close to the inner as you can get without interfering with the pull-pull arm (throttle is push-pull)
12-31-2002, 02:31 PM
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At the moment I an Irvine 53 is my favorite to install on the Knife. I haven't bought it yet, but Hobby Barn has it at a great price. And I may change my mind yet, too.
Thanks to all.
Lee
Thanks to all.
Lee
