Thread Rolling
#2
I am guessing you are referring to bolt threads like what would be on the end of a push rod? If so, and you are looking for a machine to do it, there are several manufacturers. Prutton is one I am familiar with.
Latch66 can give you more info on them since he still sees them everyday.
Latch66 can give you more info on them since he still sees them everyday.
#4
A thread roller would be nice. You can run a die over 2-56 or 4-40 rods you get from the hobby store, but nothing will fit them ! I found out the hard way. To get the right thread diameter for 4-40 it's best to start with an 1/8th inch rod and 5-40 die first, then go back over it with a 4-40. 2-56 would need similar treatment with the appropriate dies and rods of course-UNLESS you had a thread roller. Hmmm..wonder how much they cost ?
#5
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From: Bartlett,
TN
Rodchuck is the manufacturer of the thread roller... The site is www.rodchuck.com
It goes for about $43... Kinda pricy....
I'm going to try something a little different... I'm going to get a 4 x 40 rod, threaded on one end... Then use a 1 1/2" of 1/8" diam. brass tube to join it with a hunk of threaded rod... that way I'll get the length I'm after and I can use swivel ball links on the ends for a slop free control rod...
It goes for about $43... Kinda pricy....
I'm going to try something a little different... I'm going to get a 4 x 40 rod, threaded on one end... Then use a 1 1/2" of 1/8" diam. brass tube to join it with a hunk of threaded rod... that way I'll get the length I'm after and I can use swivel ball links on the ends for a slop free control rod...
#6
Ack! Yeah don't know if I'd use it enough to justify 43 bucks.
That's where I got the idea to run a die on some rods. I wanted ball-links as well for my giant scale plane. I ended up using the 4-40 die, but I wicked the interior of the dubro ball links with medium CA. After well over 100 flights they still show no signs of loosening. I put the control rod in a vice after I did it and tugged til my work table slid and the link held it's new CA threads. Figured that was good enough. That was a stop gap measure and wouldn't recommend it though.
That's where I got the idea to run a die on some rods. I wanted ball-links as well for my giant scale plane. I ended up using the 4-40 die, but I wicked the interior of the dubro ball links with medium CA. After well over 100 flights they still show no signs of loosening. I put the control rod in a vice after I did it and tugged til my work table slid and the link held it's new CA threads. Figured that was good enough. That was a stop gap measure and wouldn't recommend it though.
#7
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From: Pampa, TX
Originally posted by PaulSwany
Rodchuck is the manufacturer of the thread roller... The site is www.rodchuck.com
It goes for about $43... Kinda pricy....
I'm going to try something a little different... I'm going to get a 4 x 40 rod, threaded on one end... Then use a 1 1/2" of 1/8" diam. brass tube to join it with a hunk of threaded rod... that way I'll get the length I'm after and I can use swivel ball links on the ends for a slop free control rod...
Rodchuck is the manufacturer of the thread roller... The site is www.rodchuck.com
It goes for about $43... Kinda pricy....
I'm going to try something a little different... I'm going to get a 4 x 40 rod, threaded on one end... Then use a 1 1/2" of 1/8" diam. brass tube to join it with a hunk of threaded rod... that way I'll get the length I'm after and I can use swivel ball links on the ends for a slop free control rod...
#8
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From: Houston,
TX
Just get a carbon fiber rod cut it to lenght desired and add to threaded endpieces (come in 2-56 or 4-40) to it. Best and stiffest rod there is ! The once from central hobbies is all I use now ! No more 4-40 or 2-56 push rods !
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
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From: Pampa, TX
Originally posted by ChuckAuger
Hey Paul..Dubro makes a #336 4-40 threaded coupler that has the brass tube and a piece of 4-40 rod that is easy to solder to..not sure if it's really tinned, but it works great if you are comfortable with soldering. 4 sets to a pack I think..
Hey Paul..Dubro makes a #336 4-40 threaded coupler that has the brass tube and a piece of 4-40 rod that is easy to solder to..not sure if it's really tinned, but it works great if you are comfortable with soldering. 4 sets to a pack I think..
And yeah Ulf...the CF tubes are great, I am using them more now days...but sometimes a quick cheap 4-40 rod is all I want.
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From: Bartlett,
TN
I tried soldering the brass tube over the all thread... No dice.. must have had some plating on it or something.. I couldn't get solder to stick to that thing to save my life!!! I just used a piece of all thread... It's a very short length anyway... only 5 3/8".
I really like the way the swivel balls came out... My aileron's are slope free now!!! I'd just like a better way of doing it...
I really like the way the swivel balls came out... My aileron's are slope free now!!! I'd just like a better way of doing it...
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From: Menasha, WI
I once soldered one of the brass things to a music rod. I had to clean the rod with steel wool, and use flux to get it to stick. I heated the brass thing and put the solder down into it while it was still in the heat. Then I dunked the very clean music rod into the flux and placed it in the heat too. When all seemed hot I slid the rod into the brass thing. Once completely cool I pulled like heck with vicegrips on both and it held very well. I probably could get it to break if I really wanted too, but no servo I own would be able to. I've done this with the brass things on steel cable too. It worked just as well.
#12

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The rod chuck is NOT a thread roller, but a set of dies (5-40 and 4-40) with a guide for threading your own 1/8" wire. You can get a set of 4-40 and 5-40 split dies and a handle for under $20 at most metal working places, like Blue Ridge machine. I make up my own rods now, and the cut threads with a die are far superior to a rolled thread.
The rolled thread rods that dubro and others sell are NO good for re threading with a 4-40 (or 2-56) die as they are undersize and the threads will be inadequate for good fit on a clevis or ball link, etc.
If you want to solder links on ANY rod (music wire, plated, etc) get some white paste flux and silver brazing wire, which you can still use a propane torch with. You will never break the bond, unlike low temp solder which can come off..
Just my 2 cents and a half!
Andrew Coholic
The rolled thread rods that dubro and others sell are NO good for re threading with a 4-40 (or 2-56) die as they are undersize and the threads will be inadequate for good fit on a clevis or ball link, etc.
If you want to solder links on ANY rod (music wire, plated, etc) get some white paste flux and silver brazing wire, which you can still use a propane torch with. You will never break the bond, unlike low temp solder which can come off..
Just my 2 cents and a half!
Andrew Coholic
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From: Pampa, TX
Congrats on becoming the newest Motor Boy! I got a lot of help from George Aldrich, Ken Croft, Eric Offen, and Tim Dannels a while back...great guys and pretty august company.
#14

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Chuckauger,
Thanks - I was actually asked to join the group two years ago as of Dec. I feel pretty honoured to be in that group of model engineers, and it was Roger Schroeder (from Kansas) that really helped me get into engine building. He is quite the guy! I had a great opportunity to speak regularly with George Aldrich for about a year before he passed away. He kept up the engine work untill just weeks before he died. That must have been some love for the hobby he had, and he sure could work an engine! There is so much to learn in the workings of the "simple" two stroke engine, I have just scratched the surface... good thing I am young and hopefully have a few years to keep fooling around with them yet!
Andrew Coholic
Thanks - I was actually asked to join the group two years ago as of Dec. I feel pretty honoured to be in that group of model engineers, and it was Roger Schroeder (from Kansas) that really helped me get into engine building. He is quite the guy! I had a great opportunity to speak regularly with George Aldrich for about a year before he passed away. He kept up the engine work untill just weeks before he died. That must have been some love for the hobby he had, and he sure could work an engine! There is so much to learn in the workings of the "simple" two stroke engine, I have just scratched the surface... good thing I am young and hopefully have a few years to keep fooling around with them yet!
Andrew Coholic



