well santa bought me a new plane this year. this is my first kit and so far i loven it. just as the title says it's ohio models planes 47" edge 540. i going to post some pic up later but, i have a few ??"s. i have 200 dollare for a engine and i been reading alot of poeple really like the o.s. 55 ax 2 stroke. i was looking around thogh and seen a o.s. fl 70 4 stroke with only a price diffrance of 30 dollars at that point who cares. i want to know which one will be better. i know the pro's and con of the 2v.s.4. next ? there is no wheel for the rear landing gear it just a tail slider. is it better to just put tail wheeel in or should i just stick with the wire.


i will post some pic up soon of the progress

Go with the 55AX. I have both engines. The 70fl will not give you the performance you want and weighs more. Get the Tower Hobbies muffler for $14.99 for the 55AX and use the other $15 for some 12.25x3.75 APC props and enjoy it. The TH muffler will give you about 300 more rpm than the stock one! The 55AX is also much better on fuel consumption and makes more power. The 70fl is good for "sport" type planes, mine is in my H9 40 size Cub on floats and works fine, but it does not have the performance for a profile. Now, on the other hand, if you get the OS 70 Surpass, it would do outstanding in the profile. Don't confuse the two OS 70's though, they are not the same at all!

Tim

Not mentioned, but a Webra 50 is also an excellent choice. It's a tad lighter than the 55 AX.

http://www.swanyshouse.com/engines/engines.aspx

Stick with the wire. You turn more with the rudder anyway. Also, you won't be taxiing it that much as it'll want to just leap off of the ground.

You won't need to buy that Tower muffler!! Just remove the baffle in the 55 muffler....it saves money, and gives you monster extra power!!

what about a pitts style muffer???. also any tips like beefing up any way?

A pitts style muffler won't fit this application. You also won't need to beef up the plane, it's plenty strong as is.

I would vote for 13x4 props. Seems the 12.25x3.75 isn't quite enough prop.

Congratulations Dragnbye and we are all here to help you on the build if you need it. Just ask away!

Here's mine with the OS .55 AX. With a 13 x 4W APC Prop, the .55 AX pulls it right out of a hover into unlimited vertical.

AFSalmon
hey i didnt get the cd with the plane is it the same is whats on your site
also i kind of rip a little hole in my plans do you have these on hand i live like 10 min away form your shop
also pic's tonight

Yes, the manual is the same as what is on the websight. If you are 10 mins away give me a call at 320-5894 and I'll hook you up!

Hey 150flyer, nice picture! I thought it was ironic you took the picture of the Edge hovering in the Heli1 area!

ok so here are some pic i been workin on this for 2 days on and off. i have a ?? to pics show what i am trying to say. on the rear servo tray th oval pice i cant find also the 2nd pic just in front of the rear stab i am i to use balsa block there then the stab sit angist that??

The piece in the kit doesn't have the oval cut.

ya i just happen to have that pice on my table and said o i think this is it. as i said b4 this is my fisrt kit i think a profile was a good way to start. i will have more pic's up soon

Another vote here for the OS 55ax. My buddy has one on his edge, APC 14x4 sport with 20% heli fuel. Almost as much pullout power as my YS 63 on my fusion.

On your first picture that piece is a laser cut piece that goes in the tail under the servos. The oval is a cutout in that laser cut piece. The second picture shoes where you put in the balsa block in front of the stab. So I think you've already answered your questions. Keep it coming!

ya flexnbeef was right the oval wasnt cut in to that pice and thats whay i was lookin for. i am sheeting the the plane now i get pics up later

I had the same issue when I built mine ,Looked for that piece for 15 min LOL!!!

well the fuse is sheeted. and i was just going to start the wing but now those are ready for sheating. ok just so i under stand this here i am to leave half of the spar un cover then run the sheet up to the LE then trim the extra off the run another pice to the front. then cut smaller pice side ways for the front/rear of the servo tray???. also were did you guy put the reciver at ? i am runing 2.4 so i dont need a tube

I put mine in the wing, Receiver in one wing and battery in other. You will need to figure out where you need to put it to get your cg right.

Dragnbye, yes, the leading edge sheeting only covers half the width of the spar. The rib caps and root bay also get sheeting that covers the other half. Check out the pics in the manual for clarity. I never take my Edge apart so I put my rx in the left wing under the hatch. Same with the battery. Most folks put the battery in the left wing to offset the engine weight hanging over the right side.

ya salmon i check my voice mail today i did know you called, i but i dont have the manual i have just been useing the website. i was thinkin about just glueing the whole plane up. i have a chevy 1500 it would fit nice in the ext cab.

been a while here but i am back in to doing this i finshing up the other wing and try the rudder and elevator tommorow so i get some pic's up here soon

okay..I pulled a bone head move. The instructions say twice to make sure R1 is straight.
One wing is perfect the other is not so perfect. LOL
What is the best way to fix this? Should the LE and "wing root" be a right angle?
Suggestions welcome.
The rest of the build went well. Ready to cover once the wing "issue" is fixed.

Show some pics of the problem if you can but basically yes the root rib should be at 90 degrees to the leading edge since the Edge 540 has a straight leading edge with no taper. The root rib should also be at 90 degrees to your building board with the wing upside down. If you are not that far off the easiest way to fix would be to glue on a piece of balsa the size of the root rib over the root and then sand it carefully so that it is correct. Only use a piece of balsa the minumum required thickness to get the job done. Use a large flat sanding block and check often with a square and by placing the wing on the fuse until you are satisfied.