If you dont have coated Kevlar the exposed line can be protected by hitting with a drop of thin c/a. Chafing generaly occurs when it comes in contact like at the exits. At these points pass the kevlar thru teflon tubing as a guide.

Great ideas... I had a metal cable that was nearly new break on a negative snap. I still had up elevator so I was able to salvage my airplane but it is a scarey feeling when losing control or partial control.

rcfunflyer,
got you 30' of 20lb coated stainless 7strand and some crimps. p.m. me with your mailing address and they will be on the way to you. you will owe me a beer whenever.

there must be a reason why the cables are breaking.
I have set many planes up and never had a problem with a breaking or shredding wire.
does it break in the middle or at the crimp?

There is...we found that the metal stretches. With metal cables you have to keep tightenting them to keep them tight every so often. Once you reach a certain point where they have no stretch, they just break. I found with the Kevlar that it initially stretches a little in the beginning, but stays tighter much longer. Cable is ok I guess, but once you have used Kevlar you'll wonder why you ever used cable. I've set up alot of models too, but with the number of flights I put on them a year, I found the Kevalr works a little better...less maintenance, worries of breaks are eliminated, and it's quicker (for me at least) to setup. On the GS planes, there have also been some issues of RF Interference using metal, but that only apllies to gas engines. There aren't very many gas engines on Fun-Fly's, so I guess that is a topic for another forum. :-)

Try this link: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...011779ii01.jpg

I tried posting the same link a little bit ago and got an error, guess I did something wrong. I agree this is a cheap source for coated carbon fiber in bulk, lots of sizes also.

POWER-PRO fishing line is also great. $15 for a spool at Walmart and you'll have enough cable to last the rest of your life. More abrasion-resistant than Kevlar. Easy to tie knots in. I tie a fisherman's knot at the servo arm, and also at the other end where I use a DuBro 2-56 eyebolt into a clevis. I slide the fisherman's knot to pre-tension it when I first tie it, then lock it with thin CA.

The ONLY thing I have found to be cautious of is Power-Pro will melt. I was shrinking my monokote with a heat gun, and....where'd my pullpulls go?

Kevlar does not melt.

I just hate using the little crimp sleeves on wire cables.

Hey guys thought I would post my home made pull pull sys. I made for my Model Tech Magic Extra 300L. The kit comes with a hard wire pull pull system but there could be some binding i think in the servo with the hard wire set up so i went to my local Hardware store and bought a small package of braided steal wire that is used for hanging pictures. its flexable enough and light weight and should have just enough streaching for there to not be any binding on the servo. then I used 2 of the metal (duo bro with the little clips) for your control serfaces on a piece of threaded 256 wire screwed together like this

===-------===

then attached the one side to the control horn and ran the wire through the other end and used a crimp and you have good adjustable end. and for the other end I used the same duo bro metal end and where you would thread you control rod in just ran the wire in and back and crimped. I would post a pic for you to see but not to sure how to post pics in the fourms. it works good for me and there dont seam to be any problems with this set up for me I have 6 flights so far with this set up and did not seem to loosen any and no binding on the servo. good luck all and have fun flying I know I do.