I am using the technique described by Don Incoll. I bought a Spool of Kevlar thread from Tower Hobbies. It is tied directly to the hole in the servo arm and secured with a drop of CA. On the other end it loops through a bent peice of 2-56 rod in a regular clevis. Seems to be very strong and light.

Gregg

Kevlar works great... try using small eyelets on 2-56 nylon clevis at both ends. It makes it real easy to tie off and then plenty of adjustment. Very simple and easy to replace also. Just make sure to use tubing on the fuse exits. Kevlar will chafe especially if it is a fiberglas or c.f. fuse.
I bought a whole spool of Kevlar used for control line flying for 8 bucks, should last for many airplanes.

I use nylon coated fishing leader, go to your local fishing store. I got 30 ft. for a dollar(in the clearance bin), use dubro connectors. Just wrap it around itself and hit it with heat(lighter,match, etc.) I'm using 120 oz/in torque servos, never a failure.

I dont know about that lighter deal..... I would use the crimps......

You can only use that heat seal for nylon coated fishing wire right? Can you do it to kevlar?

I don't think it would work with Kevlar, there is no coating there to melt. I have been using 60 lb test fishing leader for years. Can't beat the 3 cents a foot

Airwurthy - Where do you get the fishing leader??

Any fishing, camping, hunting store should have something similar. Mine came from Gander Mountain. The brand is Mason, see below...works great. Trying to undo nylon melted to nylon in the "shear" is pretty dependable.

How tight do you adjust it? Just snug?

yep, just snug. It will loosen up a little over time. Just snug it up again when it does.

this site rocks...i have been posting concerns here for about 3 weeks now...and after searching back over 11 months i found some issues on pull pull....still i haven't found all my answers...i recieved my flip 3D about 2 weeks ago and have been stressing myself out over this split elevator issue with one servo ever since...i have decided to use the existing rear servo locations for independent elevator control and go with another servo mounted in the cockpit area for the rudder via pull pull....but i can not decide on what type of linkage/hook-up to use....considering using the hanger 9 medium wheel and the dubro 2-56 cable system...is anyone able to tell me how the cable is attached to this wheel? also any other suggestions would be appreciated...

Tie off the Kevlar line with a double knott then a drop of thin c/a on the knott and it will not come loose.
Kevlar has very little if any stretch in it.

I've used the Dubro Pull-Pull systems for years until recently. I now just buy the plastic coated wire braided leader from a fishing store (Bass Pro Shops) with their crimps. I then just buy the threaded couplers & clevises from the LHS. I thread the fishing leader through the crimp the same way as it is illustrated on the back of the Dubro package and haven't had any trouble in years.
In regards to attaching the rudder to the steerable tail wheel, I usually run a Hiage (SP?) style wheel from Dave Brown, SIG, or Ohio. I run springs from the rudder Pull-Pull control horns to the arms on the Haige style tail wheel assembly. I use the Haige style tail wheel assy. because is helps protect the rudder in those Tail Touches, Harriers, etc. and makes the aircraft much more controllable on the ground with cross winds. Once you try a Haige style tail wheel assy. you'll want nothing less.
Most Haige style tail wheel assy.s come with an illustration on how they are set-up. You can also go to my website and look at my aircraft. You may see some pics to give you a better understanding of what I am talking about.
Kevin

kevlar is volnerable in transport of a crouded car, in the rigging, and can be freyed due to hangar rash, Also, you need to be a Boy scout or the knot may be an issue.
fishing wire eliminates all the above concerns.
I brought some 30 lb test nylon coated wire to a club meeting and looped it. I dared the members to break it and no one could.
one guy even put a pen on each end to use a pulling device. the pen gave before the line.
real simple twist two or three times and melt on low heat untill you see the coating become one. that's it!!! it stretches a little over time but when you rig the first time you leave room for correcting that in the linkage.

Oh,,,One more thing. in a full bore impact ( tested many times !!) the pull pull lines always remain intact.

bugsiegel,

Ok... to each his own....
I just find it easier to do. I personally can do pull/pull for both elevators and rudder in about half the time it takes me to do with fishing wire method. The fraying part can be eliminated by wicking thin c/a on any line exposed out side of the fuse once they are tentioned. This also protects it from fuel absorbtion.

Just another way to do it... :-)

BTW... I was a Boy Scout but knotts wher KNOT my thang heh! heh!

BUGS,
Hope the melted -coated line thang works for you, has never failed me......honestly, I don't see an easier/cheaper/stronger way. Its probably not the lightest but every year my brother and I actually "build" an airplane in the minivan on the way to the NATS. Easy pull-pull just saves time.

Airwurthy, I've looked at every sporting goods store in town, hardware stores, Wally World, and all I can find is pre-cut leaders 12 or 18" long. Bass Pro on the web sells kevlar thread, but I really want the nylon coated wire. You or anybody else got any extra 30' packages you'd sell me!

Try Bass-Pro shops for leader wire... they've got 18#, 29# and heavier if you want it.... Maybe you have to go there to get it... That's where I got mine.

RCfunflyer,
i will look at our local wally world...i need to get some.if they have it i will mail you a spool....18 lb ok?...will let you know in next few days...

Ok, thanks. Let me know what you find.

I might be a tad strange lol. But I use Spyder wire. I do believe it is a kevlar based fishing line with zero stretch. And at the servo end i just tie it in a loose knot and hit it with CA then I run it back to two very small control rods of which I put a u bend in them and attach it there and run it back through a very small piece of brass tubing a couple of times and crimp it and CA it there and on the threaded part I put a little nut and locknut so it will stay in place where it is adjusted and can still be loosend for adjustment as needed.


Okay another way to skin a cat

You don't need the brass tube at all. I just use a short (1/2in.) piece of heat shrink tubing. I run it through the heat shrink a couple times, heat it a little, than a drop of CA. Works for me.
4 4 4 4 stroken ron

the place to get kevlar is from Don's Hobbies. He sells black coated KevCord. This stuff is indestructable...I use it on my 33% Extra. Use eyelets, triple-knot it, and use a piece of aluminum to crimp it, then put a pice of shrink wrap over it, and you'll have a setup that'll last forever. Bare Kevlar is not a good idea for controls on models, it is susceptible to UV light, moisture, and chafing, but the coated KevCord elimintaes all these troubles. I have broken many a cable using steel, and can tell you that it scares the livin' $#!^ oughta 'ya when you're doing a 4 point and learn you have no rudder on that side! LOL I used to replace steel cables twice a year if not more, but with the KevCord that Don sells I haven't had to replace one yet. Give that stuff a try...it really works great!

whew! edited that one for my non-spelling fingers! LOL

You learn something everyother day. Hey my mind needs time to rest

RCFunflyer,
If none of the other "Airwurthys" that replied for me cannot help, lemmeknow, we'll figure something out.
Airwurthy #3