Hi Everyone,
I've got my Knife sitting here ready to fly it's maiden flight this weekend barring any weather problems. I was thinking about the flaperons, and thought I better ask a few of you how you are setting them up to be sure I have them right. I know different planes require them to go up or down with up elevator depending on the model. Also, do you put them on a switch, flight mode, or leave them on all the time?

On another note, I can honestly say without a doubt that the plane was very simple to build...right up until the servo installation. What a royal PITA!!! I've built a ton of models over the years, but that radio installation had to be the most aggravating thing I've ever done. The directions are useless. If you do as they suggest, you'll never be able to get the tank out once it's in there. On the other side it would be a pain to get to the battery and reciever should you need to. I had to come up with a completely different removable setup. I also made a few other mods in the radio area to the plane. I will post some pictures of the setup. Hopefully they will help others keep the stress level down when installing their radio gear.

Elevator goes up and flaps go down and vice versa, and yes its switched. Mix in the flaperons at 50%, in other words when the elevator is at 100% the flaps drop 50%. using this function will allow very tight loops and slow harrier flight. Be careful it can cause the knife to turn a little different, you'll notice at full deflection of the flaperons when you move your aileron stick left and right it looks funny so just be careful until your used to the charactoristics of the flaps.

Geez, my servo s on my Knife are pretty easy. I'm not sure I did it like the kit calls for, but this is what I do to most frofiles anyway. I have the hatches on the top of the wing, and the servos mounted on hardwood rails that are glued to the bottom sheeting,
My tank is in the LE of the right wing, and to get it out I would probably have to remove the throttle and rudder servos. I can take some pics if you want to see my set-up.....gator

Hi Termigator,
I should've added that this is the ARF. Hatches are on the bottom. I definately would've done it different on the kit. There's just no room in there to work, and you have to reach up under where the hatch sits. I had to pull an all niter to get those servo trays in, and already had cutout new ones for the 3421's I'm running. If you're not very careful with the height placement or you don't get them level with the surface of the wing they arms hit hit the hatch cover. We're talking fractions of an inch here. 1/16" off, and it doesn't work. It's one of those things you have to get right the first time or there's gonna be some hackin' going on. hehe I had also thought about putting the tank outside, but wanted to keep it clean. Plumbing worked out better that way too. I'm running the Saito 72, and the lines go straight to the motor the way it worked out. I may go with a Kit of the ARF down the road or maybe a a small OMP Edge or GS Edge. I like these profiles...they are neat.

akahoverit,
Thanks a bunch for the info. That's the way I had it with the exception of the switch. I can fix that one in a couple seconds. I think I'll probably go with a few flight modes after the thing is setup, and it checks out on the first few flights. Thanks again for the info, and thr heads up on knife-edge.

AERO330LX,
profile servo installs are really easy. i throw away the mounting instructions and mount servos to hatch using small hardwood rails of the correct thickness for the out put arm to stick tru to the correct height (usually top of case has to be flush too under side of hatch ,or just slightly recessed). then when you remove hatch servos come with it leaving everything accessible.hatches are 1/16 ply rails are far enough out so screws holding hatch in place don't split it. then harden screw holes with thin c.a. have done this on my knife (75 flights) and my taco...if you would like i think i have some pics i will dig them up.

Hey Guys,
One thing I forgot that was added to the mix was the fact that I used 3421 mini digitals. These servos have a flat top and don't have the bearing race that sticks up above the top case. This puts the the top case very close to the hatch cover. With these servos, you don't have a fraction of an inch to play with. I got to looking at the mounting to the hatch idea just to see if it could be done, and it would've worked either. If you did that the mounting rails glued to the hatch would be so thin there wouldn't be anything for the screw to hold to. The best thing to do in the case of the ARF would be to flip the wing over, and recover it and install servos from the top. It would be MUCH easier to fit them close to the sheeting. Oh well, it's an ARF right? The best part is it's done now, and the batteries are charging. I'm gonna take it out tomorrow afternoon here at the house and run it some and check out all the controls and make sure everything stays tight. Will probably fly it Sunday. Thanks for all the replies. It's always good to hear new ideas.

Dig em up Hacker....I'll like to see them too. Here is how I mounted the servos to the hatch of my GeeWHizBee. It's a ply hatch hold in place with 6 screws. Has been holding very neat and tight so far. No problems, and servos come out by just removing the hatch.

Texas3D,
Very nice work. I can tell, you pay alot of attention to the little details. It makes them nice too. Things like the orange fuel line that matches the color scheme, hardware modifying, good rods, and good geometry on the linkages, hex head servo screws, etc... . The covering job is really nice too. I think it really makes them fly better when you're real careful on the setup like that, and it looks good too!

could not find the originals so went to shop and took these...hatch mounting is the way to go (imho)
1st set of three is taco 2ond set is knife

hatch off

and last of taco hatch....BTW make sure you use SHORT screws to secure hatch over the tank

here is the knife hatch on....i'm only using 4 screws to secure hatch...should use 6...about 75 flights on this without a problem

and the final one of the hatch off on Knife. to me this is easy no problem install...i also likem the pull pull system better than rods
hope this helps

cool install Hacker.

Tim,

I would not even bother with flaperons. I have them dialed into a switch of course, but rarely if ever use it. does all the high alpha stuff just fine without. high rates should be HIGH though, I think im close to 50deg elev.

cheers

Hubb

AMEN!!!

Wouldn't you think a kit would be easier to complete than the ARF after installing the servos?

Next time I'm putting them on the hatch!

Thanks, I try to do my best
LOL

Hey Everybody,
I just thought I would let you know that I changed my servo mounting setup. I ended up not flying the plane, and meticulously ground out the mounts I had in the Knife, and changed it to the servos on the hatch idea. I did them like Texas3D did on his. I was gonna do it like Hacker had his, but because of the way the cases are on the servos, there was no way to have enough wood to screw to on the bottom and have the servo sit high enough. It worked out very nice! The plane shed a few ounces to boot...I know, because I weighed the ones I ground out before I put them in. I backed up the hatch recesses with some 1/8" birch, so the screws would have plenty (1/4" now) to grab onto, and used 6 screws on the hatch. Thanks Guys for all the suggestions. I really belive this was the better way to go. I should've done this the first time! hehe Oh well, that's why RCU was formed, so everyone could help each other and have a good time...looks like it worked didn't it! I'll have some pics up soon...I promise. Right now I'm one wore out individual. I woke up early this morning and thought "ya know? I oughta put them things in the hatches and grind that damned mess out" ...so I did, and now it's 10:19 pm! LOL I guess my avitar really says it all this time doesn't it? I MUST be addicted.