Stickit IV mods?
#126
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From: Texas TX
Yes, Mine has gone by the wayside.... 
The expense of High torque servos and micro receivers caused me to pause... I will finish the plane when I have more time to build. Hehe, I got more planes than I can fly right now anyways...
It will be a great plane when done. Coulter

The expense of High torque servos and micro receivers caused me to pause... I will finish the plane when I have more time to build. Hehe, I got more planes than I can fly right now anyways...

It will be a great plane when done. Coulter
#129

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From: Bartlett,
TN
The HS 425's are dual BB standard servo's... Here's the spec's on 'em: http://www.servocity.com/Products/Hi...o_dual_bb.html
I think they compair to the Futaba 3001 servo's.
I think they compair to the Futaba 3001 servo's.
#130
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From: WAFB, MO
YES, LISTEN TO DAVE!
He helped me with me stickit about a year and a half ago. I have built 4 since and LOVE that plane! The latest version of mine has the modifications Dave suggested above but with shearwebs down the entire length of wing. It also has an internal fuel tank which makes the plane's trim stay the same for the duration of the flight. I use a Rossi .40, great engine, spinning a 12x4 prop and have more power than I ever need. Make sure you use a strong sero on that elevator because it can loop within its own length with enough servo torque. My entire tail secton is about 50% larger than the plans show; set up like the stickit V. I also use a large fibergalss fishing pole cut down to the proper length for my boom so it is one piece so that the tail section never dislodges. The landing gear on mine are the same as a fazer's. This is not needed, just a personal choice because I do not like the tip skids and it taxis ALOT better.
Have fun!
Adam
He helped me with me stickit about a year and a half ago. I have built 4 since and LOVE that plane! The latest version of mine has the modifications Dave suggested above but with shearwebs down the entire length of wing. It also has an internal fuel tank which makes the plane's trim stay the same for the duration of the flight. I use a Rossi .40, great engine, spinning a 12x4 prop and have more power than I ever need. Make sure you use a strong sero on that elevator because it can loop within its own length with enough servo torque. My entire tail secton is about 50% larger than the plans show; set up like the stickit V. I also use a large fibergalss fishing pole cut down to the proper length for my boom so it is one piece so that the tail section never dislodges. The landing gear on mine are the same as a fazer's. This is not needed, just a personal choice because I do not like the tip skids and it taxis ALOT better.
Have fun!
Adam
#132

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From: Bartlett,
TN
I busted the front off my Sirex wasp... I refit it and glued it in with Poly Glue. You wet the surface of the joint then apply the glue then mate the parts. The glue expands as it cures. Made a really nice repair to an ugly joint.... Flew great after the repair... almost like it was never harmed.
#133
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From: Pampa, TX
Hey guys.. I built a few combat planes like the Stickit, but with foam cores. Same engine crutch, FG tube fuse, etc.
When I'd break the engine bearer beams off, I just borrowed a trick from my buddy Jimbo..cut a new engine crutch out that is the same shape as the old one, but will fit back over the LE. Drill and tap (2) 1/4" holes and bolt to what is left of the original crutch. Mount your engine with the top of the lug hitting this new crutch to try to keep the thrust line as close as possible to the original...
Not perfect, but it will get you back in the air.
And another neat thing..if you just want to glue them back together, use a strip of 1/32" G10 on each side of the engine beams..laminate the beam on each side with G10.. I used this on the Top Cap just to see what would happen (it wasn't broke, but the nuts had eaten into the beams)...
I got lots of this G10 if anybody wants enough to do their engine beams..
When I'd break the engine bearer beams off, I just borrowed a trick from my buddy Jimbo..cut a new engine crutch out that is the same shape as the old one, but will fit back over the LE. Drill and tap (2) 1/4" holes and bolt to what is left of the original crutch. Mount your engine with the top of the lug hitting this new crutch to try to keep the thrust line as close as possible to the original...
Not perfect, but it will get you back in the air.
And another neat thing..if you just want to glue them back together, use a strip of 1/32" G10 on each side of the engine beams..laminate the beam on each side with G10.. I used this on the Top Cap just to see what would happen (it wasn't broke, but the nuts had eaten into the beams)...
I got lots of this G10 if anybody wants enough to do their engine beams..



