propane solenoid
09-29-2005, 08:37 PM
#1
propane solenoid
did I miss the page describing the orientation of the propane in / out line to the solenoid?
also, does anyone know if you can run the engine without the propane solenoid installed? or does the ECU sense the lack of its' presence and shut down?
(i.e. can I get the engine running with the solenoid plugged in externally and then unplug for operation?)
thanks
buck
also, does anyone know if you can run the engine without the propane solenoid installed? or does the ECU sense the lack of its' presence and shut down?
(i.e. can I get the engine running with the solenoid plugged in externally and then unplug for operation?)
thanks
buck
09-29-2005, 10:15 PM
#2
My Feedback: (2)
RE: propane solenoid
Hey Buck, I was just thinking about sending you a PM to see how things were coming along...
Have a look at the following photo for the valve orientation. The blue line leads to the engine, and the yellow line leads to a check valve which plugs into my external start-up fuel source. Normally, that would plug into a 'Y' fitting to the check valve and on-board tank.
As for removing the valve, its not recommended, but yes its possible. The ECU drives the valve, but doesn't sense its presence...
The operation of the solenoid valve is rather simple as it isn't pulse width modulated: it starts the flow when the engine start has been initiated, then shuts it off around 30-32K RPM in the ramp sequence. If you followed those same start and end points, it 'should' work. I'd still recommend leaving it in though...
If you still decide to removed after start-up, just make sure there's a check valve there to keep the case pressure from venting.
Kelly
Have a look at the following photo for the valve orientation. The blue line leads to the engine, and the yellow line leads to a check valve which plugs into my external start-up fuel source. Normally, that would plug into a 'Y' fitting to the check valve and on-board tank.
As for removing the valve, its not recommended, but yes its possible. The ECU drives the valve, but doesn't sense its presence...
The operation of the solenoid valve is rather simple as it isn't pulse width modulated: it starts the flow when the engine start has been initiated, then shuts it off around 30-32K RPM in the ramp sequence. If you followed those same start and end points, it 'should' work. I'd still recommend leaving it in though...
If you still decide to removed after start-up, just make sure there's a check valve there to keep the case pressure from venting.
Kelly
09-29-2005, 11:43 PM
#3
RE: propane solenoid
Kelly
great info amigo. I'm glad to hear the solenoid can be removed because space is at a premium in my A-4 and it's removal really simplifies the rats nest of wires in that little bird.
I figured a check valve would be necessary if the solenoid was removed.
Great news and thanks again for the timely response.
not much energy these days to get out in the garage but I feel a second wind coming along. I'll give a shout if the engine gives me a hard time. I'm looking forward to running her and will possibly do it this weekend.
cheers
buck
great info amigo. I'm glad to hear the solenoid can be removed because space is at a premium in my A-4 and it's removal really simplifies the rats nest of wires in that little bird.
I figured a check valve would be necessary if the solenoid was removed.
Great news and thanks again for the timely response.
not much energy these days to get out in the garage but I feel a second wind coming along. I'll give a shout if the engine gives me a hard time. I'm looking forward to running her and will possibly do it this weekend.
cheers
buck
ORIGINAL: Kelly W
Hey Buck, I was just thinking about sending you a PM to see how things were coming along...
Have a look at the following photo for the valve orientation. The blue line leads to the engine, and the yellow line leads to a check valve which plugs into my external start-up fuel source. Normally, that would plug into a 'Y' fitting to the check valve and on-board tank.
As for removing the valve, its not recommended, but yes its possible. The ECU drives the valve, but doesn't sense its presence...
The operation of the solenoid valve is rather simple as it isn't pulse width modulated: it starts the flow when the engine start has been initiated, then shuts it off around 30-32K RPM in the ramp sequence. If you followed those same start and end points, it 'should' work. I'd still recommend leaving it in though...
If you still decide to removed after start-up, just make sure there's a check valve there to keep the case pressure from venting.
Kelly
Hey Buck, I was just thinking about sending you a PM to see how things were coming along...
Have a look at the following photo for the valve orientation. The blue line leads to the engine, and the yellow line leads to a check valve which plugs into my external start-up fuel source. Normally, that would plug into a 'Y' fitting to the check valve and on-board tank.
As for removing the valve, its not recommended, but yes its possible. The ECU drives the valve, but doesn't sense its presence...
The operation of the solenoid valve is rather simple as it isn't pulse width modulated: it starts the flow when the engine start has been initiated, then shuts it off around 30-32K RPM in the ramp sequence. If you followed those same start and end points, it 'should' work. I'd still recommend leaving it in though...
If you still decide to removed after start-up, just make sure there's a check valve there to keep the case pressure from venting.
Kelly
09-30-2005, 03:07 AM
#4
My Feedback: (2)
RE: propane solenoid
No problem Buck, that's what I'm here for... 
One more note about the photo above for others reading this thread. You'll likely notice that I still use a check valve prior to the solenoid. This is purely used as a backup and can be substituted with a simple 4mm union fitting, but...... If the o-rings in the solenoid ever fail for whatever reason (contamination by debris for example) the check valve will still prevent the backflow of hot gasses from inside the engine through the propane line. A polyurethane hose won't last very long, even with a short burst of precombustion air. If the hose melts, it'll likely happen under the front cover where it may not be noticed for some time. The only immediate indicator will be a slight loss in thrust, but if left unattended the hot gasses could damage the RPM sensor of the kerosene line. The probability of experiencing this is nearly zero if a check valve is used as apposed to a union...
Kelly
One more note about the photo above for others reading this thread. You'll likely notice that I still use a check valve prior to the solenoid. This is purely used as a backup and can be substituted with a simple 4mm union fitting, but...... If the o-rings in the solenoid ever fail for whatever reason (contamination by debris for example) the check valve will still prevent the backflow of hot gasses from inside the engine through the propane line. A polyurethane hose won't last very long, even with a short burst of precombustion air. If the hose melts, it'll likely happen under the front cover where it may not be noticed for some time. The only immediate indicator will be a slight loss in thrust, but if left unattended the hot gasses could damage the RPM sensor of the kerosene line. The probability of experiencing this is nearly zero if a check valve is used as apposed to a union...
Kelly
