Plastic Props
#151
Senior Member
My Feedback: (7)
In case there's anyone outside our little campfire circle looking in and hoping to glean a speed secret or two, I'd like to re-emphasize a point already made: "Copy the APC into wood".
How's that, you say? Why laboriously copy, in fragile wood, an item you can buy for $8.00 in durable plastic? Because wood is a live material and it flexes. It will de-pitch under load and give better acceleration out of the turns. The original wood propeller that Chip Hyde used, and which was used as the basis for the APC molded plastic prop, was actually BETTER than the plastic copy (although the plastic one is certainly no slouch).
Without taking sides on the whole "let Fred save us with more choices" issue, I'll venture to say that prop-carving has never been easier than it is now. With one APC to study from, plus the right tools and a few minutes' time, you can convert any number of Zinger 8" x 7" or similar blanks into your own little clone army. Some will be better than others -- that's the way it is with wood -- but if the air's too thick or your engine's too tired to spin the plastic one, you can trim down one of the wood ones as needed.
I had exactly one good run at the Nats, and that was after I decided the APC just wasn't gettin' the job done so I threw caution to the winds and put on a 7-1/4" toothpick. That was good for 5 seconds, almost a lap! Next time I won't wait so long.
How's that, you say? Why laboriously copy, in fragile wood, an item you can buy for $8.00 in durable plastic? Because wood is a live material and it flexes. It will de-pitch under load and give better acceleration out of the turns. The original wood propeller that Chip Hyde used, and which was used as the basis for the APC molded plastic prop, was actually BETTER than the plastic copy (although the plastic one is certainly no slouch).
Without taking sides on the whole "let Fred save us with more choices" issue, I'll venture to say that prop-carving has never been easier than it is now. With one APC to study from, plus the right tools and a few minutes' time, you can convert any number of Zinger 8" x 7" or similar blanks into your own little clone army. Some will be better than others -- that's the way it is with wood -- but if the air's too thick or your engine's too tired to spin the plastic one, you can trim down one of the wood ones as needed.
I had exactly one good run at the Nats, and that was after I decided the APC just wasn't gettin' the job done so I threw caution to the winds and put on a 7-1/4" toothpick. That was good for 5 seconds, almost a lap! Next time I won't wait so long.
#152

I, too, have had problems turning up the black plastic prop (even here in the south west). Last weekend we blew the dust off of Tanner's Polecat and tried to fly it at Speedworld. The air was colder and heavier than usual due to recent storms and the black prop wouldn't turn up. That engine isn't the strongest but it IS the one he set the record with 4 months ago and it hadn't been run since. Had to borrow a light (wood) prop that would turn up enough so we could fly the plane.
I suppose a fresher engine would have had a better chance of turning the black prop in those conditions. Nonetheless, had we been at a race, we would have been forced to use something else (either a stronger engine or a lighter prop). I guess it would be frustrating for those who have to fly in heavier air all the time and either have to have a top-notch engine or a selection of wood props to get the job done (not to be the fastest, mind you, but just to be able to fly at all!)
I've resigned myself to the fact that I'll have to learn how to carve in order to be prepared for all conditions. I had trouble turning the plastic prop at the Basin in April, too (about half the time it wouldn't even pipe-up on the line). We hope to go to the NATS next year and from the sounds of it we'll need some specialized lumber to stay in the hunt.
I suppose a fresher engine would have had a better chance of turning the black prop in those conditions. Nonetheless, had we been at a race, we would have been forced to use something else (either a stronger engine or a lighter prop). I guess it would be frustrating for those who have to fly in heavier air all the time and either have to have a top-notch engine or a selection of wood props to get the job done (not to be the fastest, mind you, but just to be able to fly at all!)
I've resigned myself to the fact that I'll have to learn how to carve in order to be prepared for all conditions. I had trouble turning the plastic prop at the Basin in April, too (about half the time it wouldn't even pipe-up on the line). We hope to go to the NATS next year and from the sounds of it we'll need some specialized lumber to stay in the hunt.



