Dubro heavy duty aileron rods were used on the model.

Bend the rods to shape.

Sand the outer plastic tube to allow something to attach to.

Apply a drop of oil at each end of the tube to prevent sticking with the epoxy.

Use the Dremel tool to grind a slot in the aileron.

I used a mixture of Skin It epoxy and micro-balloons to glue in the rods.

Masking tape was applied to areas on the wing to keep extra epoxy off.

Balsa wood pieces are used to make troughs for the glue.

The glue started to harden in a few minutes.

I removed the balsa pieces before the epoxy hardened completely.

Make sure no glue fills up the slots.

A Dremel tool was used to grind the Skin It near flush.

A sanding block was used to finish the job. Start with coarse sandpaper and then switch to 220 grit paper.

Here's the finished skinned hinge (back side shown).

I've found that after you do this a couple times that this type constructs faster and easier than conventional hinges.

The fabric used for the skinned hinges adds a small amount of thickness. Lightweight Spackle is applied with a squeegee to level that area.

Spackle is applies over the remainder of the wing the same way.

After it dries lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper.

Lay the wing in place and confirm that it is square by checking measurements. They should be the same on both sides.

Tape the wing in place.

Drill, tap, and install a nylon screw.

Repeat until all screws are in place.

Countersink the heads with a larger drill.

Sand the sheeting in front of the wing leading edge for a smooth transition.

The wing should fit well in the wing saddle.

Great build thread many details how to do it.

I would like to point out that your method of countersinking flathead screws does not fit the screw head very well, because the screw heads are at 82 degrees and the typical twist drill bit point is around 118 degrees. You can buy a countersink bit at most hardware stores that has the correct angle for a few dollars. It works for both 1/4-20 and 10-24 screws.

Excellent idea! I will have to give it a try.

The plans show a 105 degree angle on the tail.

The control horns were made from 4-40 threaded rods and used the tube from a 3/32" aileron horn set.

A Dremel tool router was used to cut the slot for the hinge.

Grind out the area for the wire control horn.

The tail surface was cut in half with a razor saw.

A sanding block was used to sand the angle used at the joint.

The tail surface was tacked together with medium CA glue. After satisfied finish gluing and apply a small amount of baking soda to the CA to fill up the gap.

I wanted to find the correct location for the use of a string level.

I found a level area on the floor and checked it with the level. The bubble was in the middle.

The level was then placed in the grove of the V tail. This was placed on the floor and the level was moved around until the bubble was in the middle. This location was marked with a pencil and will later be used when setting the incidence for the wing and tail.

Control horns were bent out of sections of 4-40 control rod.

They were bent to the shape shown on the sketch.

Sand the plastic tube and the end of the wire.

Some Skin It and micro-balloons were mixed and applied to glue in the control horns.

Set this out of the way to dry.

A Dremel tool was used to rough sand the surface flush.

I followed with a sanding block to smooth out the surface.

The movable surfaces were cut free with a razor saw. You have to flex the surfaces a few times to free up the hinge surface.

The ball ends were attached to the 4-40 rod ends.

A Dremel tool was used to enlarge the area around the control horns.

I decided to make a hole in the bottom of the fuselage so that the pushrods could be attached later.

The model was adjusted until the wing had 0 degrees.

A level was laid on the V tail and it was adjusted until it was also at 0 degrees.

The tail was tacked in place once everything was square.

Some scrap pieces of wood were shaped and glued in place to support the tail surface.

Sand as needed until smooth.

The top of the tail was covered with a piece of 1/8" thick balsa wood.

This was fitted and then attached with CA glue.