Is it safe to say the pictures speak for themselves? Whether it is a new airplane or, as in this case, fitting/potting a new wing to an existing fuselage the procedure is the same.

Hope this helps somebody.

Ed S

It's interesting you should post this as I'm about ready to pot a wing... What do you use for potting material? I've used a few things including automotive body filler, epoxy, silicone caulk (just to see if it would work)... It usually takes very little filler to once it's all done so I never thought weight was much of an issue.. Just wondering what everyone else uses...

Ed,

Nice photos. Are there any complications with not getting the meter on the tail straight to the thrust or center-line?? (ie, if the LE of the meter is Higher than the trailing edge of the meter)

DK

I was thinking the same thing Dan. I've always struggled getting the robart meter lined up perfectly on the tail, plus it likes to move around a bit before you can get it glued up??

Lee, I use 30 minute epoxy mixed with a very genererous amount of microballoons. You want it very thick, not quite peanut butter thick, but close.

I just knew that was coming. Viewed from the side the elevator hinge line is vertical. It was planned that way. using a set square (Triangle) I draw a line across the tail square to the hinge line. I align the incidence meter to this line.

For filler I use epoxy resin and microballoons.

I have three incidence meters. Once I clamp them on I do not have to take one off to move to another surface to check it.



Ed S

Great:

Have had issues with V tails for years, and still do not like them, and avoid airframes with them. In the past I have clamped the elevator surface down with two pieces of balsa one each side heled in place by rubber bands. Balsa conforms to the angles involved and holds elevator at nutural. This part works well. When I apply the Robart meeter to the elevtor, the angle makes it hang up. I have 3, all do the same thing. Have one high dollar composit and 3 arfs in the attic because they dont fly worth poop. Why deal with the darn V tails when conentional tails flown by the kid were in front! Old memory is shot, maby that was 2004.

Nice pics Ed! Thanks for sharing.

I wish my garage was that clean!

Lee, you asked what people are using for potting...I read in a thread and have tried it,,,it works great...."Epoxy and corn starch"...the corn starch knocks down the smell slightly, its only $0.50 per box (thats cheap) and sands great. It's also less hazardouse if you breath it.

Thanks Pete... I read that too somewhere... Maybe I'll try it this weekend.. I have 2 Seekers at that point right now..

I prefer the glass bubble in the middle of the V if there is a flat spot... if not... I just zero out everything else, secure the fuse to the board and use a ruler/square to measure to a leading/trailing edge centerline points on the stab. I don't like all the excess weight of the Robart hanging off the rear as it can distort the readings IMO. Bottom line is.... whatever works for you and results in a plane carrying no corrective trim for a bad tail alignment.

You mean like this? Another little gadget I made up, although not totally successful.

I zeroed the level first on a little platform on a level work surface, then positioned it on the tail. It was a bit fiddly.

Ed S

No... not quite like that.... being a scratch builder... I don't have that big fillit in the middle when I set the tail on.... I use only the round glass part of the level or a line level works well also. IMHO.... for one of them there $500 composite ARFS.... there should not be a need to align stab incidence.... just align withy wingtips, glue and clamp... if incidence is off... it must be defective... send it back... after the wreck!

That's funny! Ed could save quite a bit on postage because that is his Margarita kit. He is the manufacturer!

How do you stop the level from rocking on the curve of the airfoil?

John is correct. I am not checking a $500 airplane. I am setting up my own scratch built airplane.

Ed S

I don't know about anyone else but I leave about 1/2" in the middle of my stab that I don't shape... That way after it's cut and put together it's flat.. After everything is set I fill it and shape it. This obviously would be more difficult with a bolt on tail design like Ed's but on the Seekers I fly it works quite well.

I certainly did not intend to diss Mr. Ed's ARF.... just a retorical point that you shouldn't need to set the stab incidence on a good composite arf. On my home builts I leave a little flat in the middle of the tail unairfoiled making it easy to use a bubble.

Dan

When gluing the tail on my R200 I use a jig I built. My fuselage is fiberglass so all are the same.
See pictures.

Mr. Ed's ARF??? Wash your mouth out!!!

On of the reasons for the original post was to get some conversation going and some other ideas. It seems to have worked quite well.

Ed S

as long as it's not any good rum that he is washing his mouth out with
Did he really use the "A" word [X(]

Nice jig setup Randy, I can't believe A.J. is using your wings, I feel as though I have taught him nothing

He knows which plane won the NCPL the last two years.

one of the guys here- new zealand- was forseeing all sorts of troubles aligning veetails . decided to solve the problem by making the joints in the tailplane directly above the fuselage sides in plan view.....otherwords the joints (2) were directly above the exterior faces of the fuselage sides. this enabled the centre section of the t/plane to be parallel with the wing/ engine. simple system and worked very well. regards trevor h[8D]

Yes he did. I was horrified. "Ed Smith" and "ARF" in the same sentence. Just when detox was starting to work. Now I am right back to the beginning!!

Ed S

Nope Randy, a predator won in 2004, and the seeker in 2003.

We each have 1 win in the past 3.

Trevor,

I hope your buddy made those 2 cuts parallel to each other, and straight fore-and-aft ... because otherwise, he built in some "up" trim. A good approach, though.

Regards,
Duane Gall
RCPRO