Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

I did a search and drew a blank..

I have a stab with spit elev. it has two control rods joined together to one servo. My question is getting the adjustment perfect..My plan was tolevel the fuse in a a cradle and level the stab, then measure the elev. to the work surface and adjust till they are both the same..
Is there a betterway to do this other then what i plan on doing?


Jimbo

scale only 4 me

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Much easier to just take a straight edge, lay it across the stab so it extends out over the elevators,, then just match up both sides

good luck

Mustangman40

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so4m,
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.. I guess I could lay a ruler so that it's tight to the TE of the stab and then adjust them both the same. I would think that would give it down elev. trim, but if both are the same i can trim it up to neutral..

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

or just make sure it's shimmed equally on each side,, then measure from there

TedMo

I have never seen one done as you state, but your plan is very good.

Lnewqban

What about this?

pdm52956

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That right there is the best way in my opinion. I've seen it done with balsa sticks, wire and various other straight objects. Tape them to the two elevator halves so that they don't contact the horizontal and stand behind the plane while you adjust. You'll see every little alignment problem. Works great!

tacx

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The only way this method would work properly is if you got the sticks taped to the elev. at exactly the same angle, and the tips at the exact center of the two elev. halves. This would be extremely difficult because the poster has stated that the elev. surfaces are not flat.

His original idea is the best way.

Mustangman40

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Well I made a jig and it worked out awesome and itdidn't cost anything..I will take pics tomorrow and post them for anyone looking for an idea..

Gray Beard

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Why not just make your own degree meters for nothing then you can have and use them on all your planes?

Mustangman40

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Kind of what i did, but i would love to see yours..

pdm52956

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It's not difficult at all. Try it some time.

landeck

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You all are making it too complicate! What I have done over the years is first get the rods set in the approximate position with them attached to the elevator servo which is in the neutral position. Then set one elevator half to neutral by screwing in/out its clevis. Then set the other half by again screwing the clevis in/out eyeballing the position of the two elevators from 3/4 feet back of the rear of the plane. You will find that the result is quite accurate.

Bruce

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

If you look at some advertisements from Chief or any of the bigger hobby shops you can buy these meters. I also make up the ones that use a clamp on the elevators with a weighted pendulum on the needle. When I set up a plane I measure all my control throws in degrees. Sport planes at about 10 degrees and 3-D planes I set up at about 18 degrees for low rates and 25 degrees for high rates. After test flying the planes I decide if the rates require more or less throw and then adjust accordingly. I always set the rudder with as much throw as I can get. I have a bunch of these in my shop, I make them using scrap wood so the price for one is zero.

Lnewqban

Great idea, Gray!

Flak

My Feedback: (1)

I use a Dave Brown push rod from the servo to the two wires of the same length that go to each elevator surface. Lay a straight edge across the elevator and adjust the quick connectors accordingly.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Too funny, I thought your two rods was great. The big question is why I have never thought of that at some point in time. I have used rulers to measure the distance from the ground to the elevators, used steel straight edges across the bottom of the stab across the bottom of the elevators but never once came up with those two rods!! My advanced instructor had been making up those meters for years before someone decided to make and sell them. He made up a bunch in his spare time and sold them at different fields. You can make your own or pay the $25.00 for one. Mine are high end though, I use real photo paper when I copy the degree face.

Oberst

I use a straight edge ruler and a float bubble. I get one side of the elevator straight, prop the tail up on the plane until it looks level, slap a float bubble on it until it reads level. Then at the very same spot on the opposite side, ( the other elevator) I do the same thing. Most of my planes have the servo reverser, so I adjust the reverser until it levels out evenly to the elevator I adjusted mechanicly.


Pete

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

Here's a product that works very well:

http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html

These parts can be ordered through any hobby retailer who sells Great Planes kits and accessories.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Yes it does, I used one for many years. Another GP product that I found that worked well for the price was the laser incidence meter. The only trouble with it was it required to be zeroed after every time I turned it on or off. For the price of the unit I got my moneys worth out of it. I felt I got my moneys worth out of both of these products. Well worth having if your just getting into building of setting up your own planes.