Adjusting split elevators?
#1
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I did a search and drew a blank..
I have a stab with spit elev. it has two control rods joined together to one servo. My question is getting the adjustment perfect..My plan was tolevel the fuse in a a cradle and level the stab, then measure the elev. to the work surface and adjust till they are both the same..
Is there a betterway to do this other then what i plan on doing?
Jimbo
I have a stab with spit elev. it has two control rods joined together to one servo. My question is getting the adjustment perfect..My plan was tolevel the fuse in a a cradle and level the stab, then measure the elev. to the work surface and adjust till they are both the same..
Is there a betterway to do this other then what i plan on doing?
Jimbo
#3
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ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me
Much easier to just take a straight edge, lay it across the stab so it extends out over the elevators,, then just match up both sides
good luck
Much easier to just take a straight edge, lay it across the stab so it extends out over the elevators,, then just match up both sides
good luck
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.. I guess I could lay a ruler so that it's tight to the TE of the stab and then adjust them both the same. I would think that would give it down elev. trim, but if both are the same i can trim it up to neutral..
#7
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ORIGINAL: Lnewqban
What about this?
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
That right there is the best way in my opinion. I've seen it done with balsa sticks, wire and various other straight objects. Tape them to the two elevator halves so that they don't contact the horizontal and stand behind the plane while you adjust. You'll see every little alignment problem. Works great!
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From: washington twp.,
MI
ORIGINAL: Lnewqban
What about this?
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
His original idea is the best way.
#12
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ORIGINAL: tacx
The only way this method would work properly is if you got the sticks taped to the elev. at exactly the same angle, and the tips at the exact center of the two elev. halves. This would be extremely difficult because the poster has stated that the elev. surfaces are not flat.
His original idea is the best way.
ORIGINAL: Lnewqban
What about this?
ORIGINAL: Mustangman40
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
It has an airfoil on top and bottom, it's not flat.
His original idea is the best way.
#13
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You all are making it too complicate
! What I have done over the years is first get the rods set in the approximate position with them attached to the elevator servo which is in the neutral position. Then set one elevator half to neutral by screwing in/out its clevis. Then set the other half by again screwing the clevis in/out eyeballing the position of the two elevators from 3/4 feet back of the rear of the plane. You will find that the result is quite accurate.
Bruce
! What I have done over the years is first get the rods set in the approximate position with them attached to the elevator servo which is in the neutral position. Then set one elevator half to neutral by screwing in/out its clevis. Then set the other half by again screwing the clevis in/out eyeballing the position of the two elevators from 3/4 feet back of the rear of the plane. You will find that the result is quite accurate.
Bruce
#14

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If you look at some advertisements from Chief or any of the bigger hobby shops you can buy these meters. I also make up the ones that use a clamp on the elevators with a weighted pendulum on the needle. When I set up a plane I measure all my control throws in degrees. Sport planes at about 10 degrees and 3-D planes I set up at about 18 degrees for low rates and 25 degrees for high rates. After test flying the planes I decide if the rates require more or less throw and then adjust accordingly. I always set the rudder with as much throw as I can get. I have a bunch of these in my shop, I make them using scrap wood so the price for one is zero.
#16
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From: Olathe, KS
I use a Dave Brown push rod from the servo to the two wires of the same length that go to each elevator surface. Lay a straight edge across the elevator and adjust the quick connectors accordingly.
#17

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ORIGINAL: Lnewqban
Great idea, Gray!
Great idea, Gray!
My advanced instructor had been making up those meters for years before someone decided to make and sell them. He made up a bunch in his spare time and sold them at different fields. You can make your own or pay the $25.00 for one. Mine are high end though, I use real photo paper when I copy the degree face.
#18
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From: Lacona, NY
I use a straight edge ruler and a float bubble. I get one side of the elevator straight, prop the tail up on the plane until it looks level, slap a float bubble on it until it reads level. Then at the very same spot on the opposite side, ( the other elevator) I do the same thing. Most of my planes have the servo reverser, so I adjust the reverser until it levels out evenly to the elevator I adjusted mechanicly.
Pete
Pete
#19

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Here's a product that works very well:
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html
These parts can be ordered through any hobby retailer who sells Great Planes kits and accessories.
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html
These parts can be ordered through any hobby retailer who sells Great Planes kits and accessories.
#20

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ORIGINAL: Bax
Here's a product that works very well:
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html
These parts can be ordered through any hobby retailer who sells Great Planes kits and accessories.
Here's a product that works very well:
http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr2405.html
These parts can be ordered through any hobby retailer who sells Great Planes kits and accessories.



I will take pics tomorrow and post them for anyone looking for an idea..
