flyingagin

Paint question?
For covering I am using 100% polyester dress limning.
I went to the hardware store today thinking I would get some Rustoleum water based polyurethane. Then I realized I was rather confused. I thought it came in colors. The oil based dose.
I have done silk and butyrate dope when I was young and Koverall and butyrate dope. For most of my planes I used Monocote (just don’t like it or it’s look) But now I want to get away from nitrate and butyrate dopes, as they just are not small apartment friendly. I need to lock the corners and edges of the fabric down with something. In the past patient work with dope was the ticket.
So what do I use to lock the fabric down with?
Next what should be my first coat of paint or primmer, and then on to color coats and trim. What for them?
Lastly Fuel Proofing.
Spraying is out of the question except for rattle cans.
I have been searching threads, and studying them, but at this point in time I am flustered and confused.
I ready to move on.
I am using 100% polyester dress limning. Did a test piece over a open frame work and found it shrinks OK.
For tacking down the corners and edges of the fabric how does Titebond thinned with water sound? I can apply it with an acid brush and work it into the wood. Dope just ain't going to get as I have fairly bad asthma, and react badly to chemicals.
The rebuild thread is here
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

yel914

You might try tacking down the corners with thinned Titebond. Apply it to the loose corner material and the balsa structure, let it dry, then iron it down. I use this procedure on veneers and it works great. As for the painting-you have some restrictions that will be difficult to overcome, namely an apartment, asthma and the inability to spray bulk products. With all that said, Minwax water based polycrylic may come in handy. On a recent build, I sprayed hi fill Duplicolor auto primer over Solartex, color coated with latex paint(sprayed through a gun), coated with polycrylic, and clear fuel proofed with Lustercoat. The polyc acts like a barrier to protect the latex from the hot solvents in the Lustercoat. Sufficient drying times between products is very important here. If it were me and I didn't have a place to spray using a gun and compressor, I'd use colored fabrics like Coverite, but that's just my .02 Hope any of this helps.

gene6029

Flyingagain, I am wondering if the water based polycrylic made by Minwax would do the trick? I have used it many times, but never to actually adhear the covering down. Im thinking a few coats around the parimeter, let dry, apply your covering and go back over just the edges again and let dry. Sort of like when useing silkspan. I'd try it on a test panel, but its definately house friendly. Be carefull not to soak the wood too much & cause warps, since you wont be sealing the wood first. I'l be anxious to know if this works for you...Good luck....Gene

flyingagin

hey thanks gene6029 and yel914. I have a part of an old stab (built up) that I can test things on.
I will have to wait till next week as this is the start of my work week. This week got ate up with all kinds of things.

huck1199

I have used wb poly to adhere dress lining. Then heat shrink and fill with more wb poly and paint with spray can Lustercoat.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Dope, it even comes in colors.