bob62

My Feedback: (28)

We have put one of these together and we are not pleased with what was provided for the pull cable system. What is a good cable to use

Thanks Bob

September Fury

huck1199

Just bought this at Tower, nice, adjustable with ease. 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEVW5&P=7

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks, I added it to my order

LesUyeda

I use fishing leader wire. Stainless with a plastic covering. If I'm not mistaken, it is the same stuff that the RC suppliers are supplying with their setups. Sure looks and acts the same.

Les

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

+1

Rodney

I also agree, use the nylon coated fishing wire, works very well at a fraction of the cost. You can also use the same keepers the fisher men use, can't remember the name of the gadgets but they look like short pieces of brass tubing that you put the lines through and then crimp. You get a package of about 50 of them in the fishing gear section of most shops. Get the size that is just large enough to pass the line through twice.

kenh3497

"crimps" is what you're looking for. I just bought some 60# test leader cable. No coating on it though.

cutaway

I've used Walmart 30lb test solid stainless fishing leader with success. Its like about 100 or 200 feet for a few dollars.

Rodney

I would be a little leery of using the solid wire, to much chance of failure should you get solid hit or sharp bend in it. The Berkly braided steel cable nylon coated is IMHO much better. I have also use Wall Marts Kevlar line on some models but have not made up my mind as to how wise a choice that may be as it my fray a bit with lots of use, especially where it might rub against something. Oh yes, those little crimp tubes are called ferrules and come in several sizes.

Lnewqban

You could just use .020 music wire for pull-pull controls, if not excessive slack on the non-pulling side.

LesUyeda

"You could just use .020 music wire for pull-pull controls, if not excessive slack on the non-pulling side"

But as soon as you start handling music wire, it starts to rust.

Les

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

I've used this on a few planes,, they sell it in .6mm, .8mm to 1.mm sizes,,, the .8mm is good for 50cc size, the .6mm would be good for 60-120 size,, 1mm for 100cc and up

[link=http://www.sdshobby.net/2pcs-steel-wire-Φ08×1500mm-p-2076.html]http://www.sdshobby.net/2pcs-steel-wire-Φ08×1500mm-p-2076.html[/link]

http://www.sdshobby.net

Free shipping too,, takes about 10 days

ARUP

I use Control Line cable. Whenever I change my lines for new I save the old for this purpose. Proctor Enterprises sells different sized swages or I make them from brass tube.

bob62

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks fellows, I went to Wall mart and purchased some 40# steel fishing leader that were braided coated line. Could not buy a roll, so brought leaders, they are 36" long with 4 to a pkg

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

I like coated kevlar. I use aluminum tube cut to about 3/8" length, crimped with electricians crimp to secure it. It doesn't stretch at all, and its non-metallic.. Don's Hobby in Salina, KS. is where I got it. He also sells whole kits for pull-pull with the coated kevlar. I've bought it in bulk though, and used it very successfully for flying wires on a few different aircraft. The coating is black, and with the coating it looks a tad thicker then a coated steel.. but its very tough stuff, and lightweight, wont' rust.. its almost not of this planet.

cutaway

That's why I avoid pliers and don't bend it sharply. I'll use a bit of 1/16" or 3/32" music wire as a post to make bends around. The stainless is much less brittle than music wire.

cutaway

Kevlar is nick/abrasion vulnerable and susceptible to UV degradation. It was tried on sport parachute suspension lines some years ago and proved not so good in the field for main parachutes, so people went back to spectra/Dacron when the kevlar lines started failing. You still see it occasionally on suspension lines for reserves, but they're generally not exposed to UV other than when deployed or a scheduled periodic repack and remain packed and unstressed for months/years at a time.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks for the info... I have info of the material I used being very durable, and with-standing the test of time too.. its first-hand though and my personal experience. As I recently inspected my cabling/flying-wires made of coated-kevlar(UV resistant I'm sure).. after 9yrs these cables are still holding very good tension, have no abrasion/fraying evidence, and have generally with-stood the test of time in my opinion. This is my first-hand experience.. I will take pictures if anyone's interested... if not no big deal..

So yes.. maybe the grade of kevlar, or the very make-up of the manufacturing of it didn't work for the particular application you speak of.. but I don't think we're comparing apples to apples here. I'm wondering if you have first-hand experience with the situation you're talking about... as its totally different from my first-hand experience.. but I'm not sky-diving either.

I wouldn't necessarily knock something just because someone else tried it and it didn't work. How many times did "they" try manned flight before it was successful.. ? If everyone listened to those that weren't successful, we'd all be walking forever. Thats a very extreme example... but ... Henry Ford said "Those that HAVE NOT failed will end up working for those that HAVE failed". Haha.. I guess its a good thing I'm not a skydiver.

cutaway

If your kevlar has a thickish coating like the stuff on brainded stainless fishing leaders, it's probably fine. It doesn't take much to stop UV rays a sheet of paper thickness can do it.