Glow Engine Mounting Screws
#1
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From: Harrisburg,
PA
Hi Guys,
I'm not sure where to post this...
Anyway, I purchased the Thunder Tiger .46 glow engine and went to mount it until I realized that I dont have any mounting screws to fastened it into the rails. This is my first glow engine. Where can I get mounting screws? I searched all over and couldnt find any. Unless I was looking in the wrong places.
Thanks!
I'm not sure where to post this...
Anyway, I purchased the Thunder Tiger .46 glow engine and went to mount it until I realized that I dont have any mounting screws to fastened it into the rails. This is my first glow engine. Where can I get mounting screws? I searched all over and couldnt find any. Unless I was looking in the wrong places.
Thanks!
#2
I use 6x32 hex head machine screws to bolt my engine to the mount. If the mount has flat rails top and bottom I will drill the holes in the mount large enough to allow the screw to pass through the mount (snug but not tight) and then use a nylon locking nut to secure it on the back side. I will also use a 6x32 tap and thread the hole through the mount. I do this when I do not have easy access to the back side of the mount for a wrench or nut driver. If the mount has a tapered bottom and a nut will nut tighten flush against the bottom of the mount I will again use the 6x32 tap. Typically a screw either 3/4" or 1" will be sufficient. Error on the long side of course.
HTH,
pic 1 - Evolution 52 NXmounted on SIGmounts - using nylocks on the bottom
pic 2/3 - YS1.10 and Saito 91 mounted on a Hayes AL60 mount - flat surface mates with engine but bottom is rounded requiring the threads to be taped.
pic 4 - GPgeneric 90/120 mount - flat on the bottom - either tap or thru bolt
pic 5 - who knows - bottom of beams are not flat - tap
pic 6/8 - other mounts
HTH,
pic 1 - Evolution 52 NXmounted on SIGmounts - using nylocks on the bottom
pic 2/3 - YS1.10 and Saito 91 mounted on a Hayes AL60 mount - flat surface mates with engine but bottom is rounded requiring the threads to be taped.
pic 4 - GPgeneric 90/120 mount - flat on the bottom - either tap or thru bolt
pic 5 - who knows - bottom of beams are not flat - tap
pic 6/8 - other mounts
#3
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From: Harrisburg,
PA
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
I use 6x32 hex head machine screws to bolt my engine to the mount. If the mount has flat rails top and bottom I will drill the holes in the mount large enough to allow the screw to pass through the mount (snug but not tight) and then use a nylon locking nut to secure it on the back side. I will also use a 6x32 tap and thread the hole through the mount. I do this when I do not have easy access to the back side of the mount for a wrench or nut driver. If the mount has a tapered bottom and a nut will nut tighten flush against the bottom of the mount I will again use the 6x32 tap. Typically a screw either 3/4'' or 1'' will be sufficient. Error on the long side of course.
HTH,
I use 6x32 hex head machine screws to bolt my engine to the mount. If the mount has flat rails top and bottom I will drill the holes in the mount large enough to allow the screw to pass through the mount (snug but not tight) and then use a nylon locking nut to secure it on the back side. I will also use a 6x32 tap and thread the hole through the mount. I do this when I do not have easy access to the back side of the mount for a wrench or nut driver. If the mount has a tapered bottom and a nut will nut tighten flush against the bottom of the mount I will again use the 6x32 tap. Typically a screw either 3/4'' or 1'' will be sufficient. Error on the long side of course.
HTH,
#4
A 6x32 fits nicely (snug) in a 9/64" hole. I'd have no problem opening up the 4 holes of the engine mount to accept a 6x32. IMHO beats using a 4x40 or a metric screw. I tried to download the manual - pretty much useless information.
Also, being a newbie to the hobby take a look at Airfield Models - an excellent source of all kinds of information.
I use 6x32 for my OS46's, Evo 52, OS 61, Saito 82, 91, 100. YS 1.10 - em, guess I'm in a rut
Also, being a newbie to the hobby take a look at Airfield Models - an excellent source of all kinds of information.
I use 6x32 for my OS46's, Evo 52, OS 61, Saito 82, 91, 100. YS 1.10 - em, guess I'm in a rut

#6
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From: Harrisburg,
PA
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
A 6x32 fits nicely (snug) in a 9/64'' hole. I'd have no problem opening up the 4 holes of the engine mount to accept a 6x32. IMHO beats using a 4x40 or a metric screw. I tried to download the manual - pretty much useless information.
Also, being a newbie to the hobby take a look at Airfield Models - an excellent source of all kinds of information.
I use 6x32 for my OS 46's, Evo 52, OS 61, Saito 82, 91, 100. YS 1.10 - em, guess I'm in a rut [img][/img]
A 6x32 fits nicely (snug) in a 9/64'' hole. I'd have no problem opening up the 4 holes of the engine mount to accept a 6x32. IMHO beats using a 4x40 or a metric screw. I tried to download the manual - pretty much useless information.
Also, being a newbie to the hobby take a look at Airfield Models - an excellent source of all kinds of information.
I use 6x32 for my OS 46's, Evo 52, OS 61, Saito 82, 91, 100. YS 1.10 - em, guess I'm in a rut [img][/img]
#7
Ditto with vicman on mount to firewall - I will upgrade to 8x32 for 91, 100, 110 etc. I use Loctite blue on the threads into the FW. Worth investing in a long shaft allen wrench that fits 6x32 & 8x32 for the FW bolts. As in a picture I can remove the mount and engine as 1 piece.
#8
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ORIGINAL: skeasor
Will the 6x32 screws fit through the mounting holes on the engine? Are you using a thunder tiger engine? I have a set of mounting screws from an os55 but the diameter is just a little to big to fit through the mounting holes.
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
I use 6x32 hex head machine screws to bolt my engine to the mount. If the mount has flat rails top and bottom I will drill the holes in the mount large enough to allow the screw to pass through the mount (snug but not tight) and then use a nylon locking nut to secure it on the back side. I will also use a 6x32 tap and thread the hole through the mount. I do this when I do not have easy access to the back side of the mount for a wrench or nut driver. If the mount has a tapered bottom and a nut will nut tighten flush against the bottom of the mount I will again use the 6x32 tap. Typically a screw either 3/4'' or 1'' will be sufficient. Error on the long side of course.
HTH,
I use 6x32 hex head machine screws to bolt my engine to the mount. If the mount has flat rails top and bottom I will drill the holes in the mount large enough to allow the screw to pass through the mount (snug but not tight) and then use a nylon locking nut to secure it on the back side. I will also use a 6x32 tap and thread the hole through the mount. I do this when I do not have easy access to the back side of the mount for a wrench or nut driver. If the mount has a tapered bottom and a nut will nut tighten flush against the bottom of the mount I will again use the 6x32 tap. Typically a screw either 3/4'' or 1'' will be sufficient. Error on the long side of course.
HTH,
Stuff some foam or cloth into anything on the engine you wouldn't want to see aluminum swarf get into and do a nice job of blowing off the swarf.
#9
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From: Harrisburg,
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Yea I decided to keep the 6x32 screws and drill out the holes in the engine mount holes...kinda suprises me that they're not drilled for 6x32 from the factory.
#10
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From: Lake Worth, FL
4-40's are (just) sufficient for mounting most .40 class engines. By factory drilling for 4-40, they allow people to still use 4-40 and not have the bolts be sloppy in the holes. Its always easy to make a hole bigger, making it smaller is a lot more challenging ;->
#11
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From: Yukon,
OK
I use #4-6 3/4"-1" socket head sheet metal screws on anything from a 46 size up to and including a 120 4 stroke. I have been using this since 1980 with no problem. Occasionally vibration will loosen them but a little blue loc-tight does the trick. When I got into RC back in 1980 some of the old timers back then told me about Sheet metal screws which is so much more easy to drill out the mount and R&R an engine. As to mounting the motor support to the fire wall, well I use what ever plans call for using blind nuts and blue lock tight. In determining what size screw to use, #4 or #6 depends on size of engine mounting hole, then drill out one size smaller drill bit then the drill size. Screw lenth depends on thickness of the mount whether I use a 3/4" or 1". That gives sufficient meat in the support for the screw to tighten into. In over 30 years never had a problem but to each his own.
#12
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From: Lake County,
CA
I also use sheet metal screws for mounting.
If the hole gets worn out from over use I enlarge it and use machine screws.
Anything you use has the potential to loosen due to the high vibration in our planes.
A regular ritual is to make sure everything is tight.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
If the hole gets worn out from over use I enlarge it and use machine screws.
Anything you use has the potential to loosen due to the high vibration in our planes.
A regular ritual is to make sure everything is tight.
Good Luck,
KW_Counter
#15
Senior Member
On a metal mount, "drill-and-tap" is my preference.
Plastic mounts work best with self-tappers, I find. I think that you know "self-tappers" as sheet-metal screws.
Plastic mounts work best with self-tappers, I find. I think that you know "self-tappers" as sheet-metal screws.





