gphil

When installing a tailwheel on a plane that did not have one to start with do you put the blind nut inside or glue them from the botton up. If you put them the way they were designed, cutting a hole would be required. That area gets little or no useage so placing the nuts on the bottom and Ca them in, seems like it would work. If not let me know and I will sharpen up the exacto knife. Wan to do it correctly. Thanks gphil

MajorTomski

I think you will get more responces if you tell us which plane you are converting. That way folks who have done that plane before can show or tell you how they did it.

But for starters, is there enough plywood on the back of the plane to take the shock of the tail wheel in t he first place?

jetmech05

No do not install them on the outside....if you do all that is holding the blind nut in is the glue.....put them on the inside and the wood is holding them in from pulling out....the glue then holds the blind nut from coming out of the hole if you remove the screw

gphil

I answer to the frist ,,,,, it is a Avistar , so I know it probably need some reinforcement back there so  I know too that installing the blind nuts on the outside is not good so guess I will bite the bullet and go inside. and make a little stronger.  I was hopeing for a lazy way out.  lol   gphil

Stew99

If there is sufficient material to hold them, sheet metal screws will work. I have also used 2-56 threaded inserts which can be screwed in from the outside.

SeamusG

Here's a couple of pics that Iused for my attempt at perverting a tri-cycle into a tail dragger. Not my plane, but used the same approach.

Icut the rear facing section of the fuse open and inserted some 1/8" ply with 2-56 blind nuts aready installed. Note that the wire for the TG is straight. Iadded a bit of a bend.

HTH

gphil

SeamusG, I have that exact plane copied and laying on the bench. Thanks for the extra pics. I even have to same main gear. I know that if a little tow - in is used on a conventional gear it aids in the directional control on takeoff run. This gear is crabon , plactic etc. no bending it. Do you think it really matters that much? thanks once more. gphil

SeamusG

Not a big deal if there is NO toe. Just make sure that IF the manufacturer built in some toe that the gear is installed with toe-in to the front. Go ahead and mount the wheels. Measure the inside of the wheels both front and back. I would use 2 1/4x20 nylon bolts on the front of the LG and 1 1/4x20 centered to the rear. That way there will never be a "which is the front" question. Don't ask and I won't lie.

On takeoff to keep the TW in contact with the runway for a bit longer use some up (back on the stick) elevator forcing the stab / elevator down. Not too much because as your speed increases the wing will lift and its butt will be dragging on the ground. Personally, I like long straight takeoffs rather than the 2-step and away superman lift offs that have a 45 degree up angle. It's just me.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

If you mean the tailwheel bracket, what I most often do with a flat bottom fuselage like yours is to cut out a couple of inchs of the fuselage bottom and cut a piece of 1/8 inch plywood to replace the bottom with then the tailwheel bracket can be screwed directly to the fuselage bottom without the need for nuts.

John

gphil

Good information all it is really appreciated.  This is what I like about this hobby everybody so ready to help.   Thanks   gphil

gphil

I was getting ready to put the tail wheel bracket and assy on the bottom of the plane and mine being a Sullivan with the spring is not going to work on this Avistar it appears.. The rudder being above the elevator ,,, well won't work. Have to get a different style I guess. I was not going to have it connected to a servo, just spring loaded etc. Any suggestions? I am going to have a bench stock of ;parts piled up before long. lol Thanks gphil

carrellh

You should be able to make this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWW8&P=0 work if you run a pushrod from the servo. I used something similar on a Big Stik.

SeamusG

The Avistar has a one-piece solid elevator. You could cut a clearance hole (semi-circle actually) at the center of the elevator. This might allow vertical access from a tail-wheel to the bottom leading edge of the rudder. Take the wire that is used as the wheel's axle, create a 90 degree bend in the wire where it would come to rest just under (but touching) the bottom of the rudder with an 1 1/2" under the rudder. Cut several strips of soda can aluminum about 1/4 x 1/2. Wrap the strips around the wire and the bottom of the rudder. Drill a hole thru both ends of the strips and the rudder, insert a 2-56 bolt and loctite a nut on the other side. For a "shock absorber" you can add a piece of fuel tubing over the wire at the aluminum strips.

The wheel collar below the TW mount carries the load so that it's not transferred to the rudder's hinges.

acdii

This is the one I used on my Kadet LT40. Made a slot in the bottom of the fuse for the pushrod and used servo saver springs for shock prevention.