Hi,

Ive built a few ARTF kits and they have come with the hing strips that you just ca into the slots...... the question is does anyone recommend putting a pin on each side over the hinge for extra security ??? as ive read it somewhere that this is recommended....

If so what kinda pins do u use and would they need grinding down after to get the right length etc

Thx in advance for any replys

If you CA them in properly, you really don't need pins.

Depends of the ARF...foam; always use pins,..... on regular balsa; if its a trainer then dont worry, but if its a high perfomance bird it never hurts

And the pins don't need to be anything elaborate; just use good, round, wooden toothpicks. I don't bother with typical 40 size sport planes though, the CA hinges hold quite well when installed properly.
Dennis-

Ditto, but here's a pic to show you how it's done:

Always use pins! There's no way of telling whether or not the ca glue has been applied properly or in sufficient quantity - until a hinge pulls free. It's a good 'insurance policy'. [I lost my first low winger because the unpinned elevator hinges came adrift - despite thinking they were well glued]

I use a 3/32 drill from the bottom not quite all the way through, glue a round toothpick in place , trim off the ends with nail clippers and put a dot of matching paint on the exposed ends. Well worth it!...JIM

Pinning any type of hinges is never a wasted exercise. Over the years I've found that the fabric hinges when properly installed are exceedingly difficult to remove when they need replacement.
When using the pinned nylon hinges pinning is almost an essential. As stated above round toothpicks work very well. I personally go to the market and get bamboo skewers, cost very little and one package will last for years. The wife person uses the toothpicks for horsderves (spelling?) and I can't come up with them when needed.

I've seen some club members pinning their hinges with T-pins. No hole drilling required and they clip the pin flush with dikes cutters. No glue. Anybody use this method? Is this option viable?

Perhaps a contrary note....I use Hayes "living" hinges (used to be Kraft-Hayes), and I put them in with slow dry epoxy, after roughing them up a little with course sandpaper. No pins of any kind. I have been doing this for most of the 26 years I have been in RC, including at least a dozen or more piped pattern planes in the "go fast" pattern days, and airplanes up to 1.5 glow size. Never a hinge failure.

Correct me if I am wrong about this, but as long as a hinge does not shear off at the hinge line, I do not believe there is a lot of force in the direction of pulling the hinge out of its slot. Any thoughts on this theory?

Clair

Under normal circumstances, you're right.

However, there is a circumstance when a great deal of force is placed in that direction.

A lot of emphasis is placed on the "gap". Some people try to get as close to Zero Gap as they can. This is often a mistake. With the control surface too close to the airframe, it can act as a lever; pulling the hinge out of it's slot, or putting undue stress on the flex point.

I say, don't worry so much about the Gap, you can always seal it. Allow your hinges room to flex and your planes will last a lot longer. (Dumb Thumbs not withstanding)

Always use pins on flat hinges. MinnFlyer's graphic is excellent. Just drill a small hole for a toothpick, trim it and put a drop of thin CA on each side.