I was killing time at the LHS today and stumbled accross the Sullivan elevator splitter (see pic). Basically allows you to join your two elevator halves as though they are one w/o using a torque rod.

The target AC is a GP Extra 300s 60 size kit. The instructions show clamping two control rods together with a wheel collar which looks hokey to me. I considered using two servos but am concerned about matching them properly.

Has anyone used of of these? Comments & experience appreciated.

Haven't seen one yet, but sullivan always have cool gizmos!! let us know how well it works

I HAVE USED THEM AND THEY WORK GREAT. I JUST INSTALLED ONE ON MY SUPER SPORTSTER 90/120. I USED ONE HI TORQUE SERVO INSTEAD OF 2 OF LESSER TORQUE.GREAT IDEA. GREAT PRODUCT.

You can also take the idea from GP, but instead of using wheel collars to hold the 2 pushrods together, just solder them together. I did this on 2 of the GP .46 size Cap 232's. No problems at all.

Bryan

I have used them, on a MW lil cap and my super skybolt. After some useage I did not like them. IMO they add slop to the elevator and the plastic sleeves you pull back crack easily.
I just bend the 2 pushrods together, add a third short threaded rod turned theopposite way, loop a little light wire around it and solder it up. works great, no cost, no slop

Guys,

Thanks for the input

smallfly, slop was my concern as well. I suck at soldering so I may still give the sullivan unit a try.

Kent

TopShelf, did the splitter work out?

I have one, installed but not flown. I'm not sure I like it.

Thanks

TopShelf - I've never used the Sullivan splitter, but it looks to me like it would allow the elevators to pivot individually so I don't intend to try them.

But soldering is easy. Go to your local hardware store and get some paste flux, rosin-core solder and a spool of fine brass or copper wire.

Before you attempt to solder, clean the metal with steel wool. Assemble the pieces and wrap them with the wire. I usually tin one end of the fine wire and solder it to one of the pieces so it doesn't keep coming loose.

Be sure to tin the tip and wipe it frequently on a wet sponge. The tin should be shiny solder covered or it won't work well.

When you're ready to solder, use the iron to heat up the work and apply some flux. Put the solder to the work, not the soldering iron. The whole process should take only a few seconds once the work is heated and the solder will flow out beautifully. Let it cool naturally and clean it up with soap and water to prevent corrosion.

Soldering not a problem. Everything is in the tool box

I've already decided to make up a new set of soldered push rods. I do agree that it will likely be a tighter setup. But I also think (but I haven't tried it yet so...) that there will be some binding as the servo arm rotates and pulls the rod pair off axis. This is where the Sullivan splitter helps.

The primary problem with Sullivans splitter seems to be differential motion of the elevator halves if any rotation of the rod connecting the dumbel to the servo occurs. It can be avoided with the correct setup, but will appear with the wrong setup.

My setup, of course, is wrong. But with a little effort can be made right. I guess I'll try both and see what I prefer.

Maybe you can change the motion 90 degrees by using a vertical bellcrank between the servo and the elevators. That would take care of any differential movement.

I had the same problem with a set of flaps years ago where I made a Y-pushrod coming from a single servo.

Just set it up per plans (but use solder) It works great in mine. No binding, no slop.

Dave Brown fiberglass pushrods come with a "split elevator" end piece. I use them all the time.

Don

Been gone for a while and did not realize this topic got re-activated. I finally decided on using two servos so cannot comment on how the sullivan unit works.